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No name xj

You could also weld up the current stem holes, and drill new one closer to the center.

That would get rid of the stem access & bolt interference problems
 
TRCM said:
You could also weld up the current stem holes, and drill new one closer to the center.

That would get rid of the stem access & bolt interference problems
Click to expand...

I thought about that. I got 90* stems ordered but if I don't like them I'll redrill them.
 
Ive used the RightStuff on 5 sets with no leaks from the outer bead. I prefer to use sillycone. 1/4-3/8 bead just inside the weld on the ring. I use 3 buckets to hold the tire off the ground and let the rim slack down to have room to work. Then trying not to smear sealant i pick it up and set the rim on a bucket letting tire rest on outer ring to bolt the rock ring on.

Ive also done a few sets with no sealant, one set I had to redo with sealant and I got lucky on. These are all weld on beadlocks from 34s to 40s. Never used sealant on any of the H1s or manufactured beadlocks like Racelines or such.
 
Looks good. What kind did you go with? On my wish list for my Jeep

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TRCM said:
I don't see why not....but I might want to leave just a little bump to help hold the bead
Click to expand...

Is that common practice? From what I've seen everyone grinds flat. That's what directions say also.

I was planning on hammered black for the rims and red for outer rings but my wife thinks hammered gray. Anybody else think that'd look weird?
 
Milling was a pain. No good way to hold it down with the stuff I have. Really close to fitting on the lathe.....back to grinding yay. Wheeling next weekend so gotta get er done.
 
I was lazy and left my spare shafts in with small ujoints and snapped it. Hit lower ball joint. Not sure how knuckle or inner c is. Without weight on tire the ball joint unseats.

















 
I'm having problems with spicer ball joint again. My upper came loose a while back and was turning with the kunckle. I was in a hurry so I just got a valucrap from autozone and it fit fine. The lower that got hit by the axle shaft was a moog but I didn't want to reuse it after that situation so I was going to use a new spicer I had laying around but it's loose in the taper just like the upper was. When I put wheel on it slides out of taper. My upper bj has enough vertical play to let it. Thinking of trying a different bj in lower. I really don't want to go through the trouble of "building" another dana 30 just to destroy it but I don't see much benefit in doing a d44 and I definitely don't have the cash to build a 60 right now. Any advice is appreciated.
 
Look at the aftermarket balljoints.

Synergy make decent XJ/Tj balljoints, as do Teraflex, but I think Teraflex's are WJ/JK only, so if you're on XJ/TJ knuckles they are a no go.

Moog Problem Solvers may work for you too at 1/2 the price.
 
cal said:
Look at the aftermarket balljoints.

Synergy make decent XJ/Tj balljoints, as do Teraflex, but I think Teraflex's are WJ/JK only, so if you're on XJ/TJ knuckles they are a no go.

Moog Problem Solvers may work for you too at 1/2 the price.
Click to expand...

Moog is what I originally had. The uppers took a crap right away which is why I put spicer in upper until the passenger upper wouldn't stay in taper.
 
If you got the problem solvers then others might not fit since they make the inner c holes bigger


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