See any reason this won't work? Lower control arms.

[old_man]

Arms as you have drawn them are a bad idea. I tried it about 15 years ago before I realized that the reason there are only three sides on the OEM arms is so that they can twist when you flex. The bushings can't handle all the flex themselves. I welded up a set and they didn't last one rock crawling run before torquing so much it tore the welds off the ends.

For the mall they would be fine, but on the trail, you need more flex. If you make them so strong they won't break, you won't have much flex.

 

[kastein]

and if you make them so strong they won't break... they will rip the mounts off your d30 instead.

Speaking of which, you should complete the welds on the outsides of the LCA mounts, weld the insides, and gusset at least one side of the mounts. Folding them up is trivial if you are bending stock arms.

Should complete the welds on the passenger side UCA mount and box in the front as well. It's easy if you can weld, a bit of 3/16 plate and a BFH and you can have it done in under an hour.

 

[rockclimber]

if you are worried about DW you should make them adjustable.

and you should ditch all your rubber bushings for JJ's or similar. but if you stay at stock height you will be ok with bushings, but if you lift it and start flexing it out you will loose bushings fast.

I realize thats not the cheapest solution, but usually the cheapest solution is the worst solution.

try to avoid using any sort of welded tubing... DOM is much safer and stronger.

square tube is fine as long as its strong enough, look at what Clayton offroad uses.


x2 on staying away from poly, you can kiss your CA mounts goodbye.

 

[Milford Cubicle II]

and if you make them so strong they won't break... they will rip the mounts off your d30 instead.

Speaking of which, you should complete the welds on the outsides of the LCA mounts, weld the insides, and gusset at least one side of the mounts. Folding them up is trivial if you are bending stock arms.

Should complete the welds on the passenger side UCA mount and box in the front as well. It's easy if you can weld, a bit of 3/16 plate and a BFH and you can have it done in under an hour.

I'll do that, thanks for the advice.

if you are worried about DW you should make them adjustable.... x2 on staying away from poly, you can kiss your CA mounts goodbye.

How would making them adjustable at stock height help DW? The stock LCA's are already adjustable for stock height.

No offense but you need to read the thread, I've said like three times now that the jeep is staying STOCK height. Also, I've already been running poly bushings for about two years and they've been fine.

Arms as you have drawn them are a bad idea. I tried it about 15 years ago before I realized that the reason there are only three sides on the OEM arms is so that they can twist when you flex. The bushings can't handle all the flex themselves. I welded up a set and they didn't last one rock crawling run before torquing so much it tore the welds off the ends.

For the mall they would be fine, but on the trail, you need more flex. If you make them so strong they won't break, you won't have much flex.

Then how do WJ's get away with it?

The three sides to our CA's are because of cost, not so they twist "by design"

 

[kastein]

WJs get away with it because their LCA bushings have slots molded in to make them flex a bit better.

 

[rockclimber]

How would making them adjustable at stock height help DW? The stock LCA's are already adjustable for stock height.

No offense but you need to read the thread, I've said like three times now that the jeep is staying STOCK height. Also, I've already been running poly bushings for about two years and they've been fine.

making them adjustable will allow you to dial in your caster, and pinion angle and square up the axle to the vehicle. all of these things can contribute to DW...

I did read the thread, I thought I read somewhere that you were going up in the future... guess that was someone else.:cheers:

 

[Milford Cubicle II]

making them adjustable will allow you to dial in your caster, and pinion angle and square up the axle to the vehicle. all of these things can contribute to DW...

I did read the thread, I thought I read somewhere that you were going up in the future... guess that was someone else.:cheers:

You are correct, but like I said, the stock arms are adjustable enough to get perfect caster and since I'm not going bigger, adjustable arms would just double the cost for nothing basically.

WJs get away with it because their LCA bushings have slots molded in to make them flex a bit better.

The slots are there for NVH reasons, not for flex.

 

[redrider2911]

Then how do WJ's get away with it?

The three sides to our CA's are because of cost, not so they twist "by design"

Make no mistake. The 3 sided control arms ARE made to twist by design.

 

[RCP Phx]

Im also thinking that the only reason you've felt good about the poly bushings you have now is because they are installed in "stock" arms.Put those same bushings in a rigid arm and you will have different results.

 

[badron]

The three sides to our CA's are because of cost, not so they twist "by design"
=========================================================
Manybe not "by design". I am not going to say I know what they had in mind when designing them.
But they do twist when pushed hard. Flex out a XJ with (good) stock arms. Then craw under there and have a look. Even when still they flex some. Add a litle speed and a little bounce and they got to look like rubber. Ok a bit over the top but they shure do twist.
Go to stiffer arms and give up some of that flex. Or make it up some other place/way. Hard bushing are not a common way of doing that. IMO
(((IF))) you trying to keep all the flex you got now. We never asked that sorry.

 

[thechief86]

i second the guy that said go with WJ arms. it's cheap, easy, and yes, they ARE ALL designed with flex in mind, at least to some degree. i have a friend who worked at the toledo factory as a designer right before chrysler bought the brand. he was there for a lot of the pre-renix xj stuff, and he had already steered me away from making rigid UCA's for mine, because he knew they wouldn't flex they way they're supposed to. (even if the original idea was to absorb some lateral shock before it got to the unibody)
not trying to break balls, but i believe this guy when he says he knows what he's talking about.
plus, WJ arms from your local pull-your-own auto salvage place will be much cheaper than buying all that steel, and you'll be done with this project in about 3 hours. keep the stock WJ bushings, though. if they are bad, by new STOCK rubber bushings instead of poly. hell, the poly bushings might actually be causing part of your DW because they don't absorb any of the energy of hitting a bump.... good luck to ya, cowboy.

 

[Milford Cubicle II]

F**k it, I'm goin radius arm!













:laugh: Not really, I'll probably just keep searching for WJ arms.

Which sucks cause it took me like 3 hours to draw that sh*t.