Help me my Obi Wan Kenobi's

[RCP Phx]

Another issue you haven't addressed is your front pinion angle since you have a LP D30!

 

[Xjin85]

Also, Just bought this TC drop Kit
https://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE2120-T-Case-Lowering/dp/B006GJK978/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=cherokee+xj+transfer+case+drop&qid=1676481007&s=automotive&sr=1-15

 

[Xjin85]

Also add to your list axle shims because your rotating the pinion up which works for a dye but not for a conventional 2 joint driveshaft.

I thought if you get the CA relocation brackets you dont have to use shims?

 

[RCP Phx]

The front axle doesnt use shims, they are for the rear axle. For the front you would need some adj control arms.

 

[RCP Phx]

The 33's wont fit that lift w/o trimming plus you would need to regear also.

 

[75SV1]

So you think the stock shocks will work with the 4" lift? If that's the case I will just return them and wait until I can afford a better shock. I thought 5100's are great for driving on the road and not bad off-road either.

What type and size shock would you run with the 4.5 lift? As I said I plan on getting a mid or long-arm kit in the near future. Will that have any effect on the length of shock I should run? I also noticed some guys run diffrent shocks and diffrent sizes for front and back. My shocks and entire suspension is shot. Every time I hear a bump it SLAMS. I'm at the point where the ride is getting so rough I get nauseous if I drive it for too long.

No, the stock shocks won't work. The 4.5 Bilsteins might. Still, you need to get your lifted. Then measure. Also, it depends on shock length if you use Bar Pin Eliminators.
I do use 5100s on the road. A bit firm for my taste. Then again a lot goes into the ride quality. Springs and tires do too.

 

[Xjin85]

You guys won't believe this but my dear old friend from Military Academy is willing to sell me a DANA 44 that came off a Camanche. He's charging me only $300 for it! It has different perches than an XJ so I' have to weld on new spring perches compatible with an XJ.

No, the stock shocks won't work. The 4.5 Bilsteins might. Still, you need to get your lifted. Then measure. Also, it depends on shock length if you use Bar Pin Eliminators.
I do use 5100s on the road. A bit firm for my taste. Then again a lot goes into the ride quality. Springs and tires do too.

What stocks would you recommend that arent as stiff for the best ride quality on the road?

 

[RCP Phx]

Dont weld the perches till after the lift is completed. I love my Bilstien 5100's, I dont know why he would say that! After my origin purchase of Bilsteins,I purchased 2 other sets for my other rigs!

 

[Evan03]

Not crap scrap.
If they aren't the correct length ounce lift and all is figured out you will have to scrap them for tge correct shocks.

5100s are alright but are just a cheap cookie cutter shock valved to work in most applications.
I think would work well with 3" lift and control drop brackets.

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[RCP Phx]

I ran Rancho 9000's (adjustables) for 20yrs prior to that but just got tired of adjusting them for all the different terrains!

 

[JonnyCat63]

You guys won't believe this but my dear old friend from Military Academy is willing to sell me a DANA 44 that came off a Camanche.

You have to make sure that axle has the same gearing as your existing D30 up front, otherwise you're in for a re-gearing.

What axle do you currently have now? If it's the 8.25, then I would recommend saving your money and run the 8.25. You're not gaining much over the D44. IMO, that D44 axle belongs in a Comanche.

If you have a D35, then knock yourself out. However, I would get a junkyard 8.25 and bolt that right in.

Yes, I run both the D44 and the 8.25 axles on my Cherokees, and I would take the 8.25 any day over the D44. People OOH and AAH about the D44, but I see very little difference over the 8.25. The axle tubes are bigger, the housing is more substantial, and the gears are easier to set up on the 8.25.

If I'm doing an axle swap to get rid of a D35, then I'm getting an 8.25 all day long and bolt that thing right in. If I really wanted disc brakes, then I would do the KJ disc swap on the 8.25.

Or as a second option I would do a Ford 8.8 swap. You get disc brakes, but have to get the parking brake cable adapters, and weld in new spring perches, and possibly do re-gearing if the gearing doesn't match stock.

If you have the 8.25, keep that. And if you don't, go get one out of a junkyard.

Did I also mention that D44 belongs in a Comanche?

 

[RCP Phx]

I believe he mentioned a D35, so that's a problem because he would most likely have ABS.

 

[RCP Phx]

That would also indicate that he has nv242 which complicates a sye!

 

[JonnyCat63]

I believe he mentioned a D35, so that's a problem because he would most likely have ABS.

Any axle swap would have ABS issues I think.

RCP, correct me if I'm wrong, I know the 8.25 didn't come with ABS, and I'm almost positive the D44 did not, as well.

You're also correct about the 242 SYE. Either a hack-n-tap, or an expensive Tom Woods kit.

 

[Tim_MN]

Pull the ABS relays and fuses and 1997-2001 ABS is disabled. The brakes will work normally, and the ABS hardware can remain in place.

I have installed Doetsch Tech DT3000 shocks on several of my XJ's.

 

[75SV1]

That would also indicate that he has nv242 which complicates a sye!

I did a Hack-n-Tap on my nv242. There is a kit for an SYE, but its about $500. The price of the HnT has gone up a bit, plus factor in the jig and tools.

I can't reply directly to what shocks to use. I have run the Bilstein 1500s, KYB Silvers, KYB Monmax, Ranchero RS200s, and Ranchero RS900s. The 1500s and Monomax are a bit stiff. The RS 200s barley better than stock. I did like the KYB Silvers, that were on a stock XJ. The RS900 at mid adjustment firmed up the rear with the Monomax fronts.
Some that might work for you, Blistein 1525's, Rancho RS500 and RS700, The Dotech-Tech and possibly the KYB G3's. I did run G3s in a Neon. I liked them. Firm but not stiff.
As for axles, I do run Ford 8.8s. More they have gears that match the builds I did at the time. 3.73 and 4.10 gear ratios. I do have roughly 32's on a 4.5 lift with 4.10's. A bit slow, but OK on flats. Wheeled OK. Also, there are write ups to modify it for use with ABS. I did like the ABS on my stock '98. Or at least it worked for me.

 

[Xjin85]

You have to make sure that axle has the same gearing as your existing D30 up front, otherwise you're in for a re-gearing.

What axle do you currently have now? If it's the 8.25, then I would recommend saving your money and run the 8.25. You're not gaining much over the D44. IMO, that D44 axle belongs in a Comanche.

If you have a D35, then knock yourself out. However, I would get a junkyard 8.25 and bolt that right in.

Yes, I run both the D44 and the 8.25 axles on my Cherokees, and I would take the 8.25 any day over the D44. People OOH and AAH about the D44, but I see very little difference over the 8.25. The axle tubes are bigger, the housing is more substantial, and the gears are easier to set up on the 8.25.

If I'm doing an axle swap to get rid of a D35, then I'm getting an 8.25 all day long and bolt that thing right in. If I really wanted disc brakes, then I would do the KJ disc swap on the 8.25.

Or as a second option I would do a Ford 8.8 swap. You get disc brakes, but have to get the parking brake cable adapters, and weld in new spring perches, and possibly do re-gearing if the gearing doesn't match stock.

If you have the 8.25, keep that. And if you don't, go get one out of a junkyard.

Did I also mention that D44 belongs in a Comanche?

I don't have an 8.25 unfortunately I have the turdy 5. And I agree with what you are saying in regards to the 8.25 when comparing it to the D44 but I want the D44 because 1.) I think it will eventually increase the value of my jeep and may use it on my next build eventually.

2) you can make upgrades to the D44 that will make it more like a D50.

That being said I would def do an 8.25 if it's a direct fit on my 01.

I don't think the 8.25 is a direct fit to the 01 CA emissions jeep. I think I've read in the past that alterations need to be made bc of clearance issues with the exhaust or something like that. Correct me if I'm wrong as I may
very well be wrong. But I'm looking for an easy direct fit. So that's a no for the 8.25 and 8.8 Ford...Although I'd like a longer rod like the 8.8 that's just so much more work I'd rather not do.

The D35 has ABS and the D44 is drum.

Pull the ABS relays and fuses and 1997-2001 ABS is disabled. The brakes will work normally, and the ABS hardware can remain in place.

Is there a detailed thread, video, or article you can send me to read up on this?

I did a Hack-n-Tap on my nv242. There is a kit for an SYE, but its about $500. The price of the HnT has gone up a bit, plus factor in the jig and tools.

I can't reply directly to what shocks to use. I have run the Bilstein 1500s, KYB Silvers, KYB Monmax, Ranchero RS200s, and Ranchero RS900s. The 1500s and Monomax are a bit stiff. The RS 200s barley better than stock. I did like the KYB Silvers, that were on a stock XJ. The RS900 at mid adjustment firmed up the rear with the Monomax fronts.
Some that might work for you, Blistein 1525's, Rancho RS500 and RS700, The Dotech-Tech and possibly the KYB G3's. I did run G3s in a Neon. I liked them. Firm but not stiff.
As for axles, I do run Ford 8.8s. More they have gears that match the builds I did at the time. 3.73 and 4.10 gear ratios. I do have roughly 32's on a 4.5 lift with 4.10's. A bit slow, but OK on flats. Wheeled OK. Also, there are write ups to modify it for use with ABS. I did like the ABS on my stock '98. Or at least it worked for me.

What do you think would be a better option then the 5100? I got about $400 budget to spend for all 4 shocks.

 

[JonnyCat63]

I don't think the 8.25 is a direct fit to the 01 CA emissions jeep. I think I've read in the past that alterations need to be made bc of clearance issues with the exhaust or something like that. Correct me if I'm wrong as I may
very well be wrong. But I'm looking for an easy direct fit. So that's a no for the 8.25 and 8.8 Ford...Although I'd like a longer rod like the 8.8 that's just so much more work I'd rather not do.

As far as I know, the 8.25 will be a direct fit. You will not have ABS, and you may have driveshaft issues, either too short or too long. You will likely have driveshaft issues with any axle swap.

 

[Evan03]

A d44 is likly going to decrease your heeps value if a guy like me is looking at purchasing it.

With a 400 dollar shock budget id look at kyb monomax. But you'll have to do foot work to get correct length and mounts that you end up running.
I might attempt to save money and up the shock budget to 1000 and maybe have a set of shocks valved to my specific wants and jeep on the rd weight tire size etc. Possibly go with the doetch shock in rear and good shocks up front as 4 good shocks in a wack is pretty hard to stomach.

Gooooood shocks are freaking huge improvement over cookie cutter one size fits most rigs and most people over the counter stuff.

I got lots of great use out of my 35 on the trail and street. It even survived being welded. Currently on a shaved and trussed 8.25 with 4.88 gears

Theres a guy on ebay that will ship 8.8s to you with your choice of gears. To me this is better option over the 44.
Depending on your fabrication skill and hiw you go about anchoring axke in the rig it coukd still be a negative check mark and may need redone.

You dont have to do it all now. Its taken me 5 6 years to get my jeep where i want. Probly keep changing stuff for another 5 or 6.

Most people dont keep stuff long and need instant gratification maybe putting money and time in it isnt a wise investment

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[Tim_MN]

I don't think the 8.25 is a direct fit to the 01 CA emissions jeep.

Any XJ Cherokee axle will swap into any XJ Cherokee.


If you have a 2000-01 with Low Pinion D30, you do need 2-3" of lift for exhaust clearance to fit a High Pinion D30.

Is there a detailed thread, video, or article ?

Find fuse/relay, pull fuse/relay, open beer.