Lockers - because i trust you guys

[Sniggs]

PM WSUXJER on here, I think he still has his XJ D44 for sale.

J

Also check with Red91inWA - he's down your direction.

 

[bass2323]

You get yours on the trail yet?

Its gettin there, had a slow couple months at work but slowly its getting to my standards to be wheeled.

 

[TORX]

It looks to me like a lot of the NWC is running auto lockers in the front. For those people running them, how do they affect you on snow packed roads and cornering?

I remember reading a thread quite awhile ago that said, with a Aussie or similar design locker, when you go to turn on packed snow your rig still wants to go straight? Would you call this "myth" busted, plausible, or confirmed

Lockers for me are far into the future, but Ive always been curious about how the autos work in the winter.

TORX

 

[PoSxJ]

It looks to me like a lot of the NWC is running auto lockers in the front. For those people running them, how do they affect you on snow packed roads and cornering?

I remember reading a thread quite awhile ago that said, with a Aussie or similar design locker, when you go to turn on packed snow your rig still wants to go straight? Would you call this "myth" busted, plausible, or confirmed

Lockers for me are far into the future, but Ive always been curious about how the autos work in the winter.

TORX

I've noticed that it doesn't matter if your locked or not, your rig always wants to go straight. That's how this happens.

 

[mojojojo]

I've noticed that it doesn't matter if your locked or not, your rig always wants to go straight. That's how this happens.

is it just me or is that just a red X ?

 

[PoSxJ]

Is this better?

 

[FiFo]

so so do you guys think i will see any major benefit if i go with the aussie front and stick with my LS rear, while i am hunting for the 44 rear?

If you can't do it all at once then that's what I would do. Actually I like KarlVP's idea, put an Aussie in the front and just weld the rear up. Then start looking for a D44. Once you find one for a good price (I payed $225 for mine) swap it out and either spool it or put in another aussie. Spending money on a D35 is just waising money that could be better put towards getting a D44.

 

[falcon556]

Spending money on a D35 is just waising money that could be better put towards getting a D44.

What about the Super 35?
The shafts have the spline count and diameter of the D44 and made of better steel than the D44.
I believe there is a kit that comes with a Detroit Locker.
The Detroit Locker is supposed to be a full locker that can be used for street driving? What happens when you make a turn?

 

[falcon556]

Spending money on a D35 is just waising money that could be better put towards getting a D44.

There are some Yukon shafts for the D35 on Ebay that are supposed to be 30% stronger than stock.
The biggest problem with the 35 is that the shafts break.

 

[FiFo]

There are some Yukon shafts for the D35 on Ebay that are supposed to be 30% stronger than stock.
The biggest problem with the 35 is that the shafts break.

Let me start by saying if you don't wheel it hard then a d35 will hold up fine to 33s. Though if you’re not going to wheel it hard there's no reason to lock it.

Having said that shafts are not the only problem with the D35, the stuff in the diff isn't to strong either. If you really wheel a D35 with anything bigger then 31” you will eventually grenade the axle, it probably won’t happen the first day you go out, but it will happen. Let me give an example, last July 4th a group of us went up to Rim Rock to do some wheeling over the 4 day weekend. One of the members of our merry little band had been wheeling an YJ with a D35 and ARB installed for a year or so with no problems. About an hour into the first day we hear a loud pop from her rear end and her wheels stop moving. Eventually we get her diff pulled apart and little pieces of her ARB and ring and pinion start falling out. KarlVP can give an account of exactly what went wrong since he spent a few weeks afterward helping her get it all put back together and installing a Ford 8.8 in place of the D35. But needless to say the cost of the ARB she destroyed would have easily covered the cost of the Ford 8.8 that she replaced the D35 with.

 

[CanMan]

The shafts have the spline count and diameter of the D44 and made of better steel than the D44.

The biggest problem with the 35 is that the shafts break.

Huh?

Got some facts to back up that the D35 shafts are made of better steel than the D44 shafts?

 

[goodburbon]

he's talking about the super 35 kit

 

[Avanteone]

he's talking about the super 35 kit

X2

In case it hasn't been made clear here yet, DO NOT WASTE ANY MONEY ON THE D35 hahahaha

The super 35 kit is an upgrade from stock, but still not as strong as say a stock 8.8... and I doubt it's MUCH stronger than stock D44 stuff. You had a good plan worked out in saving for the D44, don't confuse yourself now hehehe

J

 

[John90XJ]

You had a good plan worked out in saving for the D44, don't confuse yourself now J

John's right, you have a good plan with the locker in the front and leaving the LSD in the rear until a D44 is found.

But whatever you do, ignore those telling you to weld the D35 until you replace it. That's nonsense and the fastest way to get yourself into a situation where it breaks at the most inopportune time. Stick with the Trac-Lok and you'll likely never break anything.

 

[KarlVP]

Dana 35 R&P specs

Ring Gear Diameter 7.562"
8 3/8" X 24 RH Threaded Bolts
PINION Diameter 1.406", 26 Spline

Dana 44 R&P specs

Ring Gear Diameter 8.5"
10 3/8" X 24 RH Threaded Bolts
PINION Diameter 1.376", 26 Spline

Dana 60 R&P specs

Ring Gear Diameter 9.75"
12 1/2" X 18 RH Threaded Bolts
PINION Diameter 1.626", 29 Spline

Ford 8.8 R&P specs

Ring Gear DIAMETER 8.8"
10 7/16" X 20 RH THREADED BOLTS
PINION DIAMETER 1.626" 30 SPLINE
NO CASE BREAKS

Ford 9 R&P specs

RG DIAMETER 9"
10 7/16" X 20 RH THREADED BOLTS
PINION DIAMETER 1.313" 28 SPLINE
NO CASE BREAKS

You can do the math. Look at the specs for the 8.8 though. That coupled with 31 spline shafts and disk brakes, can't be beat for an easy swap. The only downside if c-clip shafts, but that really isn't a big deal.

Anywho. Please don't throw money at your D35. For the price of the superior shafts, you could get a D44 or 8.8 and Have it installed. Swapping out a rear end may seem like a big job, but it really isn't.

As for lockers, you have selectable, which in a rear end are worthless, IMHO. A detroit works well but it has it on road quirks. Just something that you have to get used to. It isn't bad, just different. Spool will destroy your tires on road.

As for that situation with Ann's d35 at Rimrock, she split her ARB case IN HALF before taking out a d35 shaft. And she wasn't even wheeling hard. What happened, is the pinion got into the case of the ARB, split that in half and in turn stripped most of the teeth off the ring gear when the force finally let go. It wasn't pretty at all.

Now she has a sweet 8.8 stuffed with an arb and 4.56 gears. I'll be the first to let you know when that breaks.

 

[falcon556]

I'll wait till I'm ready to go with a D44.
Thanks.

 

[mud1059]

I'm not sure if this was brought up yet or not but Petersons 4 wheel did a great write up on upgrading the 8.8 for jeeps. It included a kit from Superior that made it semi floating, 30 someodd splines and extended the axles to the D30 lengh. All done with regular hand tools. I think the kit was only $560.

I run a D44 and my biggest concern is replacement parts. I'm never going to find stock shafts or housings at a reasonable price because the 44 is obviously extremely desirable. Just pointing out a few things.

edit: There's more to the Superior kit, however I don't recall everything.

 

[PoSxJ]

I'm not sure if this was brought up yet or not but Petersons 4 wheel did a great write up on upgrading the 8.8 for jeeps. It included a kit from Superior that made it semi floating, 30 someodd splines and extended the axles to the D30 lengh. All done with regular hand tools. I think the kit was only $560.

I run a D44 and my biggest concern is replacement parts. I'm never going to find stock shafts or housings at a reasonable price because the 44 is obviously extremely desirable. Just pointing out a few things.

edit: There's more to the Superior kit, however I don't recall everything.

I've been told that if you plan on upgrading to the 8.8 you might as well go with a 9". Similar fabing but a stronger axle and more aftermarket products. Plus they're easier to find. Though I could be wrong. But there are is a lot more coming out for the 8.8.

 

[John90XJ]

I've been told that if you plan on upgrading to the 8.8 you might as well go with a 9". Similar fabing but a stronger axle and more aftermarket products. Plus they're easier to find. Though I could be wrong. But there are is a lot more coming out for the 8.8.

Given the choice, I think I'd stick with the cast iron diff chunk of the 8.8 and the relative ease of installing one since the width is about perfect as is.

 

[mojojojo]

hey guys. who is it that works at Northridge4X4 ????