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Axles, lockers, driveshafts and SYE!?

Unless the t-case is totally trashed, a fresh chain and new shift fork tabs will likely be all that is necessary. My 98 has +284,000 miles and as far as I can tell the t-case has never been cracked open.
 
Very interesting, which version would I need for my install?


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Both of those are for an NP231. No difference in application. Differences are in choices made by the manufacturers.
 
How does a lunchbox locker in the front behave in sane and loose gravel? I ride on dunes from time to time in Michigan


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Whats your normal top speed?

If 65 70 id Sujet a grizzly locker with 4.10s possibly 4.56 since you will at some point get bigger tires. Being able to go slower offroad is always better than top speed in my opion.

My grizzly locker runs silent is unoticable when in 2wd. Ounce tcase sends power to the front axle its locked no inbetween. I love it.
I Ounce drove with a broken rear gear set one broken front shaft . One front spinning out getting everything moving on the pavement

For your use id have zero issues running full case lockers in both ends. But that comes from running a grizzly front and welded rear.
I have zero experience running a locker in the rear. Spooled rear runs amazing in the dirt and chirps and squeals on the street. But it saved me 500 bucks.



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Aussie or tourqe locker will completely transform your rig. Instant off road beast that getsxstuck half as much.

Bearings, seals locker less than 500 labor is 700-1500. If not doing gears labor may be 500.

Does it truly neef refreshed seals minus Bearings cuts labor time alot.

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If you have a auto id jump right to 4.56 to me 3.73 and 4.10 isnt returning enough to be worth the time effort and money

If manual 4.10 might be detectable by the but dyno and make you feel 4.10 Was a worth while investment.

Say hell no to 3.73 on either tranny.

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4.10 makes a great difference with a manual.

Keep in mind, a manual comes with 3.07 gears.
 
I like my 4.10 and 35s... on the trails in the south east... mud needs wheel speed...
But the lunchbox locker up front with the 8.8 led rear (junkyard rebuild does quite well) has made me very capable... for the money I really recommend it.

A 4.10 dana 30 is a junkyard source. As is an 8.8 lsd 8.8....
Would I rather be lower? yes.... but I'm in my axle swap about 500 bucks including truss and c gussets on the dana 30...
I'm all about what's worth it, and for me this nailed it.....

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Also if you are opening the tcase install 2wd low.... it's not overly pricy and it's an awesome compliment to a trail rig... I have a perfect combo of steering and traction in 2wd low and the rear lsd... 1 quick movement of the tcase lever puts me in 4x4. Running a front lunchbox I think this is a must...

I'm in 2wd low 70+percent of the time offroad... and I think this reduces the stresses on everything.

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For a budget Cherokee on 31's, stock gears are fine. I saw more XJ D44 in the junkyard than factory 4.10 D30's.

2wd low really only is benefit for dedicated rock crawlers. I have never had a circumstance in Moab or in the North Woods of Minnesota when either locker in my 2000 would not unlock.



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For a budget Cherokee on 31's, stock gears are fine. I saw more XJ D44 in the junkyard than factory 4.10 D30's.

2wd low really only is benefit for dedicated rock crawlers. I have never had a circumstance in Moab or in the North Woods of Minnesota when either locker in my 2000 would not unlock.



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For the first time I fully disagree with you Tim... there's loads of times I use 2wd low. Even doing things like yard work, backing up to a trailer or anything that requires additional finesse, it makes it easier...

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Slow.
Your gears arent correct for 35s for trail work neither are 4.88s

A dedicated trail jeep on bug tires wants 5.13 5.38s unfourtenatly thats mearly a dream.

2wd low would be Handy since my jeep isnt properly geared eirher ;)
Can Twist through the trees wirhout needing 4wd but wanting to go slow so I can keep from braking my glass.

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Slow.
Your gears arent correct for 35s for trail work neither are 4.88s

A dedicated trail jeep on bug tires wants 5.13 5.38s unfourtenatly thats mearly a dream.

2wd low would be Handy since my jeep isnt properly geared eirher ;)
Can Twist through the trees wirhout needing 4wd but wanting to go slow so I can keep from braking my glass.

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You're correct. My gears are wayyyy off. Sometimes for some thought though. Trails in my neck of the woods require wheel speed. I hit 3rd gear (auto trans) very often in 4x4 low. High range is out of the question as to needing to go back and forth so often (friends with proper gearing have this issue)

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Gears in an area where a huge compromise is made.

Thats where a block box or double comes help make that compromise less.

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Ok! Here is what I have on the way so far!

(Phase 1)
Spartan Locker for the front (ordered)
Extreme duty front driveshaft from Adams (ordered)
Solid D30 diff cover (ordered)
Shop will do install and rebuild front diff

(Phase 2)
JB Conversions SYE (need to order)
Extreme duty rear driveshaft from Adams (need to order)

(Phase 3)
Adjustable upper and lower control arms (ordered)
Longer brake cables (ordered)
New Fox Shocks (need to order)

Hoping that after these 3 phases I’m satisfied for some time but my hunger for upgrades seems to be insatiable…anyone got any advice on how to not upgrade further?!


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anyone got any advice on how to not upgrade further?!


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Yeah, sell the jeep and buy a ford. Then you'll just have something to look at instead of drive!
 
Get a second set of rims and buy a new set of tires in the same size as you are currently running. Store them until you wear out the current set of tires, then install the ones you have been storing, and buy another new set of tires in the same size. As long as you keep yourself from moving up in tire size you should be able to stave off the upgrades.
 
Ok! Here is what I have on the way so far!

(Phase 1)
Spartan Locker for the front (ordered)
Extreme duty front driveshaft from Adams (ordered)
Solid D30 diff cover (ordered)
Shop will do install and rebuild front diff

(Phase 2)
JB Conversions SYE (need to order)
Extreme duty rear driveshaft from Adams (need to order)

(Phase 3)
Adjustable upper and lower control arms (ordered)
Longer brake cables (ordered)
New Fox Shocks (need to order)

Hoping that after these 3 phases I’m satisfied for some time but my hunger for upgrades seems to be insatiable…anyone got any advice on how to not upgrade further?!

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Ended up not being terribly low budget, but looks good.

Get a second set of rims and buy a new set of tires in the same size as you are currently running. Store them until you wear out the current set of tires, then install the ones you have been storing, and buy another new set of tires in the same size. As long as you keep yourself from moving up in tire size you should be able to stave off the upgrades.

Interesting approach to resisting the urge to move up in tire size.
 
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