emr1101
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
I think ill get those washers for the spacers and run them on each end of the tie rod, then one on the drag.
I think ill get those washers for the spacers and run them on each end of the tie rod, then one on the drag.
My god. Put them on both drivers and pass side TREs...AND....the bottom drag link end.
OMG, I've just sorted through 10 pages :wierd: of discussion on this and there are some things I've got to chime in on....
I have this same problem of the rolling tie rod but my concern isn't as much about the dead spot it's more about the alignment and death wobble. My setup is over the knuckle and I have a full writeup here. It's not JCR but like someone said before inverted T is inverted T. The differences are over or under the knuckles...
One thing that I found out when playing with the alignment on my front end is that the toe changes as much as a 1/2" when the tie rod is rolled from front to back.I never noticed that, havent checked but i prob will, that seems odd but i dont think it would make much of a difference, with inverted Y it toes in a LOT more when you go over bumps. Jack the front tires off the ground and grab the tie rod and rotate it either by hand or by steering wheel and note the difference in your toe. You'll need a helper to do this if you turn the steering wheel. Place a straight pin in each tire to take your measurements off. This is with no TRE spacers.
So the next step was I tried a couple of large washers between the TRE body and the knuckle and found there is a very fine line of having too many washers and getting the TRE bound up on the knuckle (or not letting the tapers seat properly) and having too few and getting the roll. I don't see how (someone said it before) you can say that you need x" thickness of spacer because the slight differences in taper depth will make a difference in this dimension. Why does that not make sense? One of the things I'm hopeing to do is turn down my own bushings made of Delrin to the thickness of the gap at each TRE. Problem is that the TRE body sits at an angle to the knuckle so they won't be exactly flat. Don't know if this will work or not but it's a cheap experiment and I already have a rod of 1.75" Delrin from McMaster Carr.
Someone also mentioned it earlier but the bottom line is that this type of steering is meant to be used in a linear fashion, not on the steep angles that we are putting it to. We are trying to make antiroll spacers to make this design work for our purpose. When the drag link is put to steeper angles it wants to roll the tie rod more. It may work fine for some but judging from this thread there seems to be more problems than benefits on a lifted front end.
If this spacer thing doesn't solve my problems soon then I guess my next step is to do the terraflex knuckle and redo the steering setup again.I was considering the same thing, only problem is #1 tera knuckles are freaking expensive, and #2 i would have to re-locate my track bar again. At least then the drag link will push only the knuckle and the tie rod will only have to keep the tires together. No spacers needed.
I've been fighting DW for many years now. The past 2 years I've basically gounded the blue xj since it wasn't safe to drive anymore. Part of this is because of the T steering. The other part of my problem is short arms on 6.5" of lift so I'm slowly working on getting that resolved (this weekend) and then turning my attention back to steering. I really hope I can get this fixed soon. It would be nice to have another driveable jeep and not just another yard ornament.
Not necessairly... When I raised my tie rod over the knuckle I also went to a YJ pitman arm which is about an inch shorter than a stock XJ arm. That way the angles stay the same. Do to one end what you do to the other...
Here's a pict of my setup as of last weekend. (Harlan, KY)
Holy Christ!!!!!!!!!!!! A lot of bitching and moaning.................:looney: I am sitting at 7.5 inches of lift and run NO swaybar and have the JCR OTK. I am happy with my steering!! No dead spot or death wobble:yelclap::yelclap:
No, this thread is a JCR bash thread, and it's bullsh*t. You need to lighten the eff up tool.Yeah this is tread for those having problem with the setup so if you don't fine, who cares. Thanks for nothing. JO
You're welcome!!!Ahh more help thanks.
BTW, you should stop advertising your personal jeep club on ANOTHER jeep club's website. It's not kosher.Ahh more help thanks.
You're welcome!!!
And props to you JCR for releasing great steering when installed correctly and working your HARDEST to accommodate the idiots having problems.
No, this thread is a JCR bash thread, and it's bullsh*t. You need to lighten the eff up tool.
You're welcome!!!
And props to you JCR for releasing great steering when installed correctly and working your HARDEST to accommodate the idiots having problems.
emr1101 said:if this thread is so bad why is it 11 pages long? get the fuc* off it if you dont care to help, stop being a pussy (pardon the language)
I'm going to asume I was not included as one of the idiots.
I was in no way bashing JCR and I know they have their loyal following here on Naxja. I did however have a problem with the steering design, it's not JCR's design after all.
Mine is at ~7" OTK and I have replaced the bushing more than once. My last attempt seems to have worked. There are multiple threads on this very subject. So to say it's this thread is a little over the top (granted there are a few idiots here).
No DW or BS and it now drives nice and straight as it did before the bushing wore out. If there wasn't a problem with the bushing than JCR wouldn't be looking into ways to fix it.
Edit: I did not have DW or BS with the bad bushing, just a dead spot.
if this thread is so bad why is it 11 pages long? get the fuc* off it if you dont care to help, stop being a pussy (pardon the language)
:yelclap:
How is anything he said considered "being a pussy"? If anything hes standing up for a company, therefore not backing down, therefore not a pussy...