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My Jeep hates the whoops

ah, found them in the prothane catalog.

coilspringinsert94623.jpg


Now, just gotta find out who sells the darn things
 
:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:

Just ran the part number on the Bilsteins I had up front 170/60

I got these used, and I swear the prev owner told me they were 255/70. I guess I should've looked for myself.

I can't beleive I was running down Boone Rd with Rusty's coils and 170/60 with a winch and a winch bumper. No wonder it sucked ass :eek:

Moving on, thanks for your guys help :D
 

:thumbup:

They work pretty good. You need to modify the frame side bump stop so you don't 'harpoon' the prothane coil insert.

I know it is REALLY hard to see it but if you look carefully you might notice I cut the 'knub' doen, tapped it, and placed a 2" x 1.75" (I think) plate on it.

DSC00368.jpg DSC00370.jpg
 
:thumbup:

They work pretty good. You need to modify the frame side bump stop so you don't 'harpoon' the prothane coil insert.

I know it is REALLY hard to see it but if you look carefully you might notice I cut the 'knub' doen, tapped it, and placed a 2" x 1.75" (I think) plate on it.

Thanks, I was wondering about that.
 
:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:

Just ran the part number on the Bilsteins I had up front 170/60

I got these used, and I swear the prev owner told me they were 255/70. I guess I should've looked for myself.

I can't beleive I was running down Boone Rd with Rusty's coils and 170/60 with a winch and a winch bumper. No wonder it sucked ass :eek:

Moving on, thanks for your guys help :D

FWIW - I've never ran with the 255/70 valving in the front of my junk, but I was REALLY happy with the 275/78 valving in my 7100's...

When I was buying them, I sent a PM to Jes asking about 7100's, and he said he had run both valving, and there was a noticeable performance gain with the 275/78...

Edit: all of that info pertains only to the front of the jeep - in the rear, the 255/70 might be a bit better...
 
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I got the 5" ones. I can put some hockey pucks under them if I need more.

Nope, they won't compress enough, or be progressive enough. Mine are the 10" and I cut them down to 9", and they regularly compress 3-4" to make them nice and progressive. I can hit hard and can't feel it bottom out. They don't have a positive stopping point to protect you from bottoming the shocks, so you need them long enough so you can play with it a little to get them the right length. I have 6.5" of shock shaft showing on the 7100's and only 2" of uptravel before the bumpstops hit, they're that progressive.
 
FWIW - I've never ran with the 255/70 valving in the front of my junk, but I was REALLY happy with the 275/78 valving in my 7100's...

When I was buying them, I sent a PM to Jes asking about 7100's, and he said he had run both valving, and there was a noticeable performance gain with the 275/78...

Edit: all of that info pertains only to the front of the jeep - in the rear, the 255/70 might be a bit better...

I run 275/78 in the front 7100's and 255/70 in the rear 5150's. The 170/60 is really soft, and meant for dual shock applications.

My front is pretty good, with the 7100's, the Prothane inserts, and the extra stiff Skyjacker coils (cut down one coil), but the rear still could use more work, it's far from what it could be. It's tough in the rear to get a soft enough spring rate and yet haul stuff for camping runs and be strong enough to resist spring wrap on the trail (though I have a traction bar). I've worked on mine a lot, with a 5" longer spring pack, lot's of friction reducing, and playing with the spring rates, but it can still buck up in the back on bigger multiple whoops. But, for what it is, still a good trail rig, it's pretty good on the fast stuff.
 
I'm running 360/80 7100's up front. I like them ALOT. They aren't too harsh for the streets but work great in the fast stuff.
 
I'm running 360/80 7100's up front. I like them ALOT. They aren't too harsh for the streets but work great in the fast stuff.

If mine wasn't a trail rig, I might try that valving, it would likely work better at speed. Mine is already just a touch stiff on the trail with the higher spring rate.

Damn, we just can't have everything. :)
 
Nope, they won't compress enough, or be progressive enough. Mine are the 10" and I cut them down to 9", and they regularly compress 3-4" to make them nice and progressive. I can hit hard and can't feel it bottom out. They don't have a positive stopping point to protect you from bottoming the shocks, so you need them long enough so you can play with it a little to get them the right length. I have 6.5" of shock shaft showing on the 7100's and only 2" of uptravel before the bumpstops hit, they're that progressive.


:thumbup:

Mine were cut down about 1" as well. Worked pretty damn well.

5" are probably too short.
 
:thumbup:

Mine were cut down about 1" as well. Worked pretty damn well.

5" are probably too short.

Thanks for the input. I already ordered them though. I thought they would compress a couple of inches, but that much. I'll just put a couple of hockey pucks under them to raise them up and give me some bump stop and see how it goes this weekend. If not, I guess I could just sell these to someone with a 3" lift or something.
 
My fox's are for sale mike, and they've done me pretty well in the go fast stuff :D

Thanks, but I think I'll be good now, even though someone did PM me and say fox's were the way to go. I put some Bilstein's 5150s 255/70 up front last weekend. Should be a lot better then blown 5125s with 170/60 valving. I'll find out this weekend when I go to Superstition.
 
UPDATE: Well they're in! Stiffer 5150 Bilsteins, Prothane coil inserts, and even a daystar EVS shock bump stop.




Nope, they won't compress enough, or be progressive enough. Mine are the 10" and I cut them down to 9", and they regularly compress 3-4" to make them nice and progressive. I can hit hard and can't feel it bottom out. They don't have a positive stopping point to protect you from bottoming the shocks, so you need them long enough so you can play with it a little to get them the right length. I have 6.5" of shock shaft showing on the 7100's and only 2" of uptravel before the bumpstops hit, they're that progressive.


Goat, you sure these things compress? They seam pretty stiff! I'll have to take your word for it and test it out this weekend at superstition.

I really think the 5" are going to be just right, especially with a 1" hockey puck that I added to it. That gives me 6". I only had 3" of a hard bump stop before and that was working out pretty good. So lets see 5" of prothane, + 1" hockey puck = 6" of bump stop - 3 or 4" of compression = 2-3" of final bump stop. I measured the space between the bumpstop tower and the prothane/puck, and it was 2.5". Seams about just what you had. Maybe you have biggers coils then I do. If I had 9 inches, the bump stop would already pushed into the porthane an inch.


:thumbup:

They work pretty good. You need to modify the frame side bump stop so you don't 'harpoon' the prothane coil insert.

I know it is REALLY hard to see it but if you look carefully you might notice I cut the 'knub' doen, tapped it, and placed a 2" x 1.75" (I think) plate on it.

Well, I didn't have time to modify my frame side, and I tested it out, and it WOULD harpoon it. Hopefully this solution will work. I put a 1" high hockey puck on top of the prothane.




As I said above, I think I needed 6" high prothanes really, but do to the lack of time, I just added a hockey puck on top. FYI, it's not just floating there, I put a bunch of self tapping screws counter sunk through the puck and into the prothane. It'll work for now. It's what I had on hand in short notice.


Much thanks to Ocean Jet for helping me do the drivers side tonight (As I was slightly disabled) Robert K for helping me track down the EVS shock bumps, and Goatman/Cracker for the prothane idea. Mark W for stopping by after work and letting me borrow his BPEs. Also, everyone for recommending some better shocks. Couldn't of down it without you guys.

:clap:


Now to go bombing down the dirt.
 
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