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My FitchBox (tm)

They are actually staggered. They are not right next to each other like it looks in the pic. Here is the side pic to clear things up....
relaybox030.jpg
 
Looks Good, Nice Job!
 

Maybe this is a stupid question, but how did you attach the relays to the box?

It looks like the fuse holder and the connection strip are held down by bolts. It looks like there is some kind of metal plate below the relays, but I can't seem to figure out how you attached the relays.
 
I used L brackets and used SEM structual adhesive to bold them together. Not the best pic but heres a pic
relaybox020.jpg
 
I am getting ready to re-wire all of my accesories this weekend, so I have a few quick "clarification" questions. :)

1) Do I need to run the main negative wire from the box to the battery, or can I use a good ground inside the cabin (I am mounting it under the rear seat)?

2) I will only be using 3 or 4 relays, so can I use 24 gauge wire instead of the cat5?

3) Is the main power wire switched, or can it be ran straight to the box from the battery?

Thx,

JOhn
 
I am getting ready to re-wire all of my accesories this weekend, so I have a few quick "clarification" questions. :)

1) Do I need to run the main negative wire from the box to the battery, or can I use a good ground inside the cabin (I am mounting it under the rear seat)?

2) I will only be using 3 or 4 relays, so can I use 24 gauge wire instead of the cat5?

3) Is the main power wire switched, or can it be ran straight to the box from the battery?

Thx,

JOhn

1) I just picked up a ground from the body, I used one of the bolts for the hood support.
2) 24 AWG is actually larger than that of the CAT5 wire, so it will work fine, as this wire should not be carrying any real current.
3) I ran my power wire direct from the battery, but a fuse wouldn't be a bad idea. And if your lights are uncovered a master switch somewhere may be a good idea, depending on the laws in your area.
I added an extra fuse that I can pull out when driving down the road, I have been tempted a couple of times to throw all 5 switches to the guy that just cut me off, but they don't function without the main fuse.
Lucky for those I follow :D
 
1) I just picked up a ground from the body, I used one of the bolts for the hood support.
2) 24 AWG is actually larger than that of the CAT5 wire, so it will work fine, as this wire should not be carrying any real current.
3) I ran my power wire direct from the battery, but a fuse wouldn't be a bad idea. And if your lights are uncovered a master switch somewhere may be a good idea, depending on the laws in your area.
I added an extra fuse that I can pull out when driving down the road, I have been tempted a couple of times to throw all 5 switches to the guy that just cut me off, but they don't function without the main fuse.
Lucky for those I follow :D

Thanks for the help!! :)

John
 
Another option for wire from the switches to the relays is control wire. My friend got me some from his work(electrician) its 12 18 guage wires bundled in a insulator and its less than 1/2" thick. I needed more conductors than the cat 5 had and I think it will be easier for my clumbsy ass to work with lol.
 
Another option for wire from the switches to the relays is control wire. My friend got me some from his work(electrician) its 12 18 guage wires bundled in a insulator and its less than 1/2" thick. I needed more conductors than the cat 5 had and I think it will be easier for my clumbsy ass to work with lol.

I used something similar for my switches, I used 8 conductor, 24 awg, which was about 3/8" diameter and it slid down through the A pillar molding nicely.
 
I used something similar for my switches, I used 8 conductor, 24 awg, which was about 3/8" diameter and it slid down through the A pillar molding nicely.


I would have used that but I needed 9 conductors. This is actually the switch panel on the shifter console of my barracuda. I don't have 9 things to run yet but I have 9 switches so I am wiring them all.
 
ok Ok....I have one last question before I start my version.... :)

I am mounting my box under the rear seat and my switches will be mounted in the center console next to the shifter. I currently have a huge monster amp cable running to my amp under the rear seat. It has an in-line fuse and goes into a 4 port distribution block.

I am planning on using one of the ports for the amp, one for the relay box, and one for the power to the switches. I will ground the box and switches seperate.

I will be running 6 lights off of 3 relays.

Will this work? Anything I am missing?

Thx again,

JOhn
 
Make sure the amperage isn't too much for the wire. Otherwise it's going to get hot and can become very dangerous. What gauge is the wire? How long? and how many watts are all 6 of the lights you'll be running? What about the amp? These are all very important factors.
 
I don't normally post up on NAXJA, I tend to be more of a Cherokee Forum guy, so Hi to everyone in this thread.

Couple questions;
I looked all over hell and creation on the internet and I cannot find the right angle disconnects, although something in me suspects they're just normal disconnects bent at a right angle. Who supplies those?

Where can I get SPST relays for <$2 apiece? STDT relays are a dime a dozen, with larger quantities going for $0.80/relay but I can't find SPDT relays for cheap anywhere.

oh jeez. I just realized the last post in this thread was over a year ago. crap! sorry everyone!
 
Yeah, STDT doesn't exist... I'm confused by this.

SPST = Single Pole, Single Throw
SPDT = Single Pole, Double Throw
DPST = Double Pole, Single Throw (two sets of SPST contacts controlled by the same coil)
DPDT = Double Pole, Double Throw (two sets of SPDT contacts controlled by the same coil)

Essentially, the number of "poles" is the number of movable switch contacts, while the number of "throws" is the number of different terminals each "pole" can connect to.

STDT = Single ????, Double Throw = I have no idea what this is! I think you may have mistyped it.

Try electronicsgoldmine, mouser, digikey, and bgmicro for cheap relays and other electronic junk.
 
Two dummies can build them too. Eric (dellstopjeep) and I built a pair of these. Thank you FitchVA.

IMG00203-20110223-2101.jpg


IMG00202-20110223-2100.jpg


Mine is on the left, dellstopjeep on the right.
 
www.delcity.net has a variety of relays, some in the $2 range. Not sure if they still have a "minimum order amount" though.

The local parts stores all carry the right angle disconnects.

I believe they have a $25 minimum, which isn't that hard to hit :paperwork
Edit: i lied, according to their site (in the top right corner) it says "$0.00 order minimum"

Two dummies can build them too. Eric (dellstopjeep) and I built a pair of these. Thank you FitchVA.

IMG00203-20110223-2101.jpg


IMG00202-20110223-2100.jpg


Mine is on the left, dellstopjeep on the right.

Lookin' good :clap: I'll probably steal that wall plate idea off of you when i build the next one:new:
 
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