My 89 comanche project

[Frank Z]

Disconnect the trackbar on the axle and leave the drag link connected. Have an assistant turn the steering wheel and the body will move over the axle. Much easier than trying to push the body by hand.

 

[jeepcomj]

Disconnect the trackbar on the axle and leave the drag link connected. Have an assistant turn the steering wheel and the body will move over the axle. Much easier than trying to push the body by hand.

yes, BUT it doesn't turn far enough. (I already tried that)

for some reason it isn't matching up correctly...

 

[RyanM]

hmm those uppers won't last long if you wheel it.

 

[bhorocks]

whatever gets you home right?

 

[jeepcomj]

first, that's a lower control arm.

second, these uppers are HEAVILY reinforced. I do believe that they will last quite a long time.

 

[RyanM]

OH REALLY? Forgot chrysler made the uppers beefier I thought they were made with the same sheet metal?

 

[jeepcomj]

OH REALLY? Forgot chrysler made the uppers beefier I thought they were made with the same sheet metal?

uh...idk if you even LOOKED at how I did them, but these are based off of stocks, but extended, and reinforced by angle iron and plating on the outside of the weld point. the angle iron extends from about 1" behind the axle-side bushing to the same on the upper side bushing.

measurement on these is 15.75" and they should have been 16" IMO.

they'll last, I don't rock climb, go 90mph through mud, or ham on my rigs. slow and steady is more fun and less expensive.

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

uh...idk if you even LOOKED at how I did them, but these are based off of stocks, but extended, and reinforced by angle iron and plating on the outside of the weld point. the angle iron extends from about 1" behind the axle-side bushing to the same on the upper side bushing.

The problem is the stock arms are actually designed to twist a little if they are beyond the range of the rubber bushings (not under normal/on-road use!). You can actually twist them by hand.

By reinforcing the center, you are putting all the stress on the non-reinforced sheet metal ends. They will eventually tear. IIRC Someone did something similar to yours on here a couple years ago with destructive results.

Now if you NEVER wheel it and flex it out, it may hold up just fine.

 

[jeepcomj]

The problem is the stock arms are actually designed to twist a little if they are beyond the range of the rubber bushings (not under normal/on-road use!). You can actually twist them by hand.

By reinforcing the center, you are putting all the stress on the non-reinforced sheet metal ends. They will eventually tear. IIRC Someone did something similar to yours on here a couple years ago with destructive results.

Now if you NEVER wheel it and flex it out, it may hold up just fine.

*shrug* it's not like I designed them to be permanent additions to the jeep. the goal WAS to make my uppers out of tubing, I just didn't have the time to do so.

 

[RyanM]

The problem is the stock arms are actually designed to twist a little if they are beyond the range of the rubber bushings (not under normal/on-road use!). You can actually twist them by hand.

By reinforcing the center, you are putting all the stress on the non-reinforced sheet metal ends. They will eventually tear. IIRC Someone did something similar to yours on here a couple years ago with destructive results.

Now if you NEVER wheel it and flex it out, it may hold up just fine.

something like this?

 

[jeepcomj]

alright, so I got the front axle back in, and all the associated stuff. now I just need the shocks, and to stretche the brake line farther.
also I will need to do a tierod flip on this thing. it is do-able. the tires are toed in a bit, so that will be adjusted as well.
I think I may need to extend the upper control arms a bit more too.

here it is just set down

hooking up steering etc.

cleaned the CAD and got it working too

made the swaybar links, solid ones for now

and the calipers are on, but there's not enough room in the brake line for 6.5" of lift

the brake line bent back really easy, but I can't pull any more through

 

[jeepcomj]

just takin it up a rock. that's as far as I could go...the brake line was too far stretched

this is the amount of clearance at full turn that I have between the control arm and the tire

and between the tire and the fender flare

so the front sits at 39" of height from the ground to the fender flare
that's 23.5" from the center of the hub to the bottom of the fender flare, compared to the stock being 17" or something like that. so true lift was 5.5 inches roughly. I'm OK with that.

the rear will be lifted SO in the rear this week, and will sit about 2" higher than the front when done. then all I have to do is front shocks, all brake lines need extended or replaced, and do something about the steering arms...

 

[jeepcomj]

Burlington WI
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 10:08 pm Post subject: more pics today...

drove it over what's left of our conveyor belts...

kinda a pose pic

I climbed my rock pile

me happy

now the rear needs a lift

 

[jeepcomj]

sprung it over

everything disconnected

handy heavy duty frame stands

new u-bolts

axle out

wet spots are wd40 from me squirting the brake line ends to remove the brake line...it was a halfassed line so...

removed axle truck view

axle set to figure out stance, centering, and pinion angles

let me say that metric tonne rear springs offer ALOT more lift than normal ones

using the jack to set pinion angle...decided to put it on jackstands as this method wouldn't offer me turning ability on the driveshaft to find binding.

new ubolts and perches, this is how it will be set up and I'll be welding in the shock mounts/perches seperately.

it's NOT welded yet

 

[jeepcomj]

thats how far the yoke is out...less than an inch is in

I think this is where it needs to be located, but the tranny has to drop or driveshaft lengthened or both.

so I had some tranny drop spacers made from 1"OD, 1/4" wall, 1/2" OD tube...1.25" ones.
only broke 2 bolts off, the other one is removed thanks to my dad's welding skills (built it up and removed with vice grips) and the other one will be done next.

here's pics...it had studs on the driver's side frame for the crossmember, they had to go for the drop kit to work...so they did but the nut for one broke off.
fixed it this way.

then just welded that stud down...

spacers 1" OD, 1/4" walls, 1/2" ID

completely installed crossmember

d-shaft will gained 1.25" or more of input on the slip-yoke from the drop

so it's dropped.

in the morning I will re-center the axle, then use the pinion angle gauge to set the rear axle to match the output shaft, pull axle after tac-welding it in, then have dad full weld it paint it and reinstall it.

will be doing rear brakes tomorrow too and also dropping the e-brake assembly.

whatcha think?

 

[jeepcomj]

got angle gauge, set pinion angle.

removed axle after tac-welding perches on

welder is not up to snuff anymore, so it will have to be welded @ my grandpa's shop on saturday morning. then I can weld my shock mounts on it and get everything permanently mounted


and that's where it's at. it needs to be welded up (tomorrow morning I hope) and then I can put it all back together and all that will be left is rear brake line extension/plumbing, front brake line extension, and cab corners. it will run and drive with the driveshaft that's in it, but I'd like to get a longer one made sooner than later.