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Knuckle rotation contemplation

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What a horrible place for a steering stabilizer.....That retard Lincoln put his hydro ram there too.
 
Never smacked my housing there before, so it'll prolly be safe......if not, it's easy enough to move. I agree with you though, Lincoln shows signs of retardation.........
 
XJEEPER said:
I agree with you though, Lincoln shows signs of retardation.........

:laugh:
 
Cracker, you know he wheels in Moab and the UT stuff. That stabilizer location definitely isn't west coast approved. If you don't go anywhere, you don't hit it. :shhh:


:D :D



Oh, and no question about Lincoln. He's so retarded he won't even know we're talking about him.
 
Very nice. Looking at your pictures of you cutting the weld around the C brought back memories from doing the same thing last week. And I realized how much I never want to do that again.
 
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What a horrible place for a steering stabilizer.....That retard Lincoln put his hydro ram there too.

You ever get the Antirock on here?
 
OK, I realize this is an old thread but since there is some renewed interest in this subject I have a question. I plan to strip the axle tubes of all bracketry and cut the tubes in the middle, use internal sleeves and rotate the pumpkin to correct pinion angle. Then I will reinstall new bracketry on the axle. The reason for this approach is that it will ensure the knuckles remain square to the axle tubes. Has anyone tried this approach and if so what do I need to look out for? I have taken into consideration leaving room for the axle tube seal when installing the sleeves.
 
OK, I realize this is an old thread but since there is some renewed interest in this subject I have a question. I plan to strip the axle tubes of all bracketry and cut the tubes in the middle, use internal sleeves and rotate the pumpkin to correct pinion angle. Then I will reinstall new bracketry on the axle. The reason for this approach is that it will ensure the knuckles remain square to the axle tubes. Has anyone tried this approach and if so what do I need to look out for? I have taken into consideration leaving room for the axle tube seal when installing the sleeves.

I have heard of it done before.

What do you wish to acheive by sleeving it? Are you concerned about it being 1/4"?

A properly built truss would increase stiffness far more than sleeving it.
 
I would guess that it would help in the reassembly and keeping it true when welding it back together again.
 
I have heard of it done before.

What do you wish to acheive by sleeving it? Are you concerned about it being 1/4"?

A properly built truss would increase stiffness far more than sleeving it.
The only reason to sleeve it is to ensure the tubes go back together square. It will receive a custom truss for rigidity.
 
The only reason to sleeve it is to ensure the tubes go back together square. It will receive a custom truss for rigidity.

I think it may be more work than it is worth. Knocking the knuckles is pretty quick once you get the hang of it.
 
The fit is so tight that you shouldn't have a problem with the C staying square to the tube. After grinding/cutting off the factory weld, I had to beat on them pretty good to get them to rotate. At least that's what I remember when i did mine.
 
The fit is so tight that you shouldn't have a problem with the C staying square to the tube. After grinding/cutting off the factory weld, I had to beat on them pretty good to get them to rotate. At least that's what I remember when i did mine.
X500
 
OK, I realize this is an old thread but since there is some renewed interest in this subject I have a question. I plan to strip the axle tubes of all bracketry and cut the tubes in the middle, use internal sleeves and rotate the pumpkin to correct pinion angle. Then I will reinstall new bracketry on the axle. The reason for this approach is that it will ensure the knuckles remain square to the axle tubes. Has anyone tried this approach and if so what do I need to look out for? I have taken into consideration leaving room for the axle tube seal when installing the sleeves.

Not sure I'm following your reasoning.....if you follow the procedure, how can the inner C get out of square with the tubes? I can see the logic behind sleeving for strength, but it's much more work than a truss.
 
Not sure I'm following your reasoning.....if you follow the procedure, how can the inner C get out of square with the tubes? I can see the logic behind sleeving for strength, but it's much more work than a truss.
I just feel that its possible to get the knuckle out of square with the tube, even though it is a tight fit the tube only goes 1 1/2" or so into the knuckle.
 
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