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98 SE 5.3 Swap and Other Stuff

After I posted that I looked at my wiring diagram. Looks pretty simple. What did that switch come out of? And I assume the up and down switch is for accelerate and coast (where'd ya get that too?)
 
Driveshafts got picked up today:

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Been busy the last couple weeks. I"m getting really close to a test drive.

Lower rad mount. Welded on the bottom side of the frame rails.
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Upper mount/core support
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Fan and shroud are done
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I bought a Mr Gasket swivel thermostat housing so I could get a lower hose to work
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And my lower hose consists of a 77 Mustang II v8 upper on the top half and an 82 International bypass hose on the lower half. I had to trim both of them
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Lots of other small stuff done like plumbing and some small wiring tasks.

The biggest issue now is the transmission. I don't know if I hurt it when I started it dry a month ago or if I damaged a seal when I was putting it together but its not shifting right on the jack stands. I'm going to have my transmission buddy come over and take a look. The one thing I did not replace in it was the shift solenoids so I'm hoping its something that simple.

I really don't want to have to pull the trans and tear it down.
 
Alright well my transmission guru buddy came over tonight. Then this happened:

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I'm taking it to his shop later in the week for a teardown. I'm going to replace all the shift solenoids on top of whatever else I ****ed up during assembly.
 
Well I had a productive weekend. Took the trans to my buddies house Friday night, tore it down and found the problem. I put the sprag in backwards..... Oops. We flipped that around and put new shift solenoids in since it was apart anyway and threw a new front band in it too since during testing and trying to figure out what was wrong I burned the band pretty good.

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This is Chad showing me my mistake :)

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So I stayed up til about 2am Friday night and got it all put back together and then spent the rest of the weekend tidying up a bunch of stuff and got the trans cooler mount done, condenser mount done and a few other things.

And I just posted a new video. You get to hear it run with full exhaust on it. Sounds good in my opinion :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKju_HXmeyU
 
I'm curious how well your belt setup will work with the tensioner placed on the pulling side of the belt. I think you're going to see some belt slipping under hard throttle, because the pulling of the belt from the balancer will unload the tensioner and you'll have a lot of slack between the alternator and balancer. Just a thought anyways. Rest of the build looks good!
 
I'm curious how well your belt setup will work with the tensioner placed on the pulling side of the belt. I think you're going to see some belt slipping under hard throttle, because the pulling of the belt from the balancer will unload the tensioner and you'll have a lot of slack between the alternator and balancer. Just a thought anyways. Rest of the build looks good!

Thanks for mentioning that. When planning my belt routing I had zero knowledge of pulling side vs slack side and just put it on where it fit. It seems like its working so far but I haven't done any driving or full throttle pulls under load.

Worst case I can probably come up with a way to move it up by the alternator.

I'll report back after the first drive

*EDIT*

So originally I was going to put the tensioner up by the alt but the bracket was too tall and the alt hit the hood so I thought "hey there's a ton of room down there. I'll move it". I may have to revisit this and put the tensioner back up there.

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So I couldn't fit the tensioner under the alternator. Not enough room and really no other options so I decided to make a manual tensioner. We'll see how it works. I spared no expense and used a Craftsman socket

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I need some help with alternator wiring. I have an AD44 alternator with the P L F S plug on it. Can't seem to get a charge going.

P - Open
L - through a bulb to ground
F - hooked to keyed 12v+
S - hooked to B+
Big cable hooked from back post to B+

What am I doing wrong? Its a brand new alternator and I switched the 2 pin regulator over to a 4 pin regulator. Everything is tight.

Any ideas?
 
That should be "I" and not "F"
 
I need some help with alternator wiring. I have an AD44 alternator with the P L F S plug on it. Can't seem to get a charge going.

P - Open
L - through a bulb to ground
F - hooked to keyed 12v+
S - hooked to B+
Big cable hooked from back post to B+

What am I doing wrong? Its a brand new alternator and I switched the 2 pin regulator over to a 4 pin regulator. Everything is tight.

Any ideas?

*Disregard*

Found some more info that says I needed a 470ohm resistor hooked in line on the L wire. 14.5v at the battery now.
 
Sounds awesome!!!! Congrats on getting it on the street!

Thanks Jared. Looking forward to seeing yours runnin down the road too :)

Congrats! Love that GRIN on your face after burning some rubber... :)

Thanks :) After 6 months of it being in the shop its pretty damn satisfying to have it working correctly and on the road.

And on that note I'm actually legal to be on the road as of about 40 minutes ago:

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Went last Saturday and filled the tank up. It had about 2 ish gallons in it already:

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Now I need to finish up the interior and tie up a few minor loose ends but it's back to daily duty.

Phase 1 complete. Now I need to save some cash for Phase 2 which involves axles and adding exterior LED lighting, getting my ARB copy bumper back on and getting a winch back in it... etc..
 
Thats an awesome tank! (any interest in replicating one?)

also, did you keep all emissions equipment or did you tune it out?

Thanks :) Building that tank was a gigantic pain in the ass. Now I know why Genright wants so much for theirs :) It's still overpriced but I can understand it a bit better.

I had the rear O2s set to no error reporting since I only have 1 and had the EVAP deleted and set to no errors by my tuner.
 
Thanks :) Building that tank was a gigantic pain in the ass. Now I know why Genright wants so much for theirs :) It's still overpriced but I can understand it a bit better.

I had the rear O2s set to no error reporting since I only have 1 and had the EVAP deleted and set to no errors by my tuner.

Thanks for clarifying!
 
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