truggy just ate your biscuit

[jdxj]

OK so My heep has been on jackstands in front of the shop long enough.

I'm gathering the last few parts and pieces before my re-build. Now i need some advise.
Current specs
01 XJ with 4.0 aw4 231
Specs that are set in stone.

44/9 combo
Crane knuckles, disk brake conv. parts ball joints brake stuff should be here tomorrow

Gonna build 1.5 alum. steering links and use hiems

Lunch box locker for now selectable later maybe

Stock shafts for now, (RCV shafts in the hopefully not to distant future)

9" will be trussed and locked (thinking Yukon locker)
Maybe a truhi9 later.

37" BFG Crawlers Blue labels on the way.
DIYbeadlocks, with my ORA logo on em will be on the way in a week or two.

I have 16" travel 2" Walker Evans Airshocks for rear, suspension is YTBD

14" Travel remote res shocks Walker Evans again!
Gonna reuse my TNT Longarms!

24 gallon Jazz fuel cell

Most of this stuff was not really optional I got most of the parts as a trade for work on a ultra 4 rig there all new but i got em cheaper cause of his sponsorships.



So things I'm iffy on are

1

lift Height Thinking 4"-4.5"

I wanna keep the COG low and am gonna cut most the sheet metal anyway so rubbing won't be a issue

2
THE CHOP definitely gonna chop the back at right behind the back doors And Narrow it

Question is Chop it all the way off and build a frame up truggy in the rear

or leave the floor and frame and build up from there.

I'm heavily leaning towards the first option.

3 Gears
planning for 5:38's i was running 5;46 with the 35's and wished i had deeper gears so i ws thinking 3 step- down rather than 2


4 Tcase
should i get a 300 and flip it and 4:1 it, or just go with a atlas and 4:1 gears or other ideas


5 rear links

4 link w/ TB ,3 link w/tb ,dual triangulated 4 link W/O TB, radius arms Ive taken some good long looks at the busted knuckle garage radius arms for the broncos and could make those work pretty easy and they are tough as hell. Thats what the ultra 4 guy that i rebuilt the buggy for uses front and rear.

6 Hatch

should i relocate the hatch just behind the doors and weld it in place, don't have any desire for it to open. or just leave the back open and have a soft hatch back type cover made at a boat cover shop.

I like the idea of open in the summer but would like the warmth in the winter and not having to cover or park it inside.

THOUGHTS?????

7 front end

Almost sold on narrowing the front end a bit as well.......would cut the grill, header and sandwich it back together for a cleaner look.
gonna build fenders out of tube anyway so now would be a good time to narrow it if I'm ever gonna!


Let me know what ya think...... I know most of the work and stuff involve
ed just looking for some opinions and ideas!



:flame::flame::flame::flame::flame:AWAY


OH and Im gonna build a new EXO












gonna build a truss and have 1.5 alum steering links made

 

[jdxj]

My Turn

something like this but on the XJ obviously is what I'm thinkin!

 

[jdxj]

My Turn

OR hatch like this but quarter panel cut higher pretty much straight across from top of wheel well

 

[jdxj]

Re: My Turn

OH and i'm planning on stretching the WB a little but how much IDK any thoughts??

 

[jdxj]

My Turn

No one has any opinions on my junk???????? Really WTH

 

[jdxj]

Jd's UglyBuggy Build

Brown made me happy today!!!!!!


Nice rename of my thread ya jack arse!

 

[freerider15]

Re: Jd's UglyBuggy Build

This might take a minute...responding as I go...

 

[freerider15]

Re: Jd's UglyBuggy Build

Axles:

1.) If you want to keep them alive...keep the rig LIGHT (well more so the D44...the 9" is easy beef). Without Chromo's or RCV's right away...your not much ahead of a D30.

I have 16" travel 2" Walker Evans Airshocks for rear, suspension is YTBD

14" Travel remote res shocks Walker Evans again!
Gonna reuse my TNT Longarms!

2.) You're not going to be happy with 2" in the rear, many many many people will tell you that.

14" remote Resi's with coils or C/O's? 2" or 2.5"

So things I'm iffy on are

1

lift Height Thinking 4"-4.5"

I wanna keep the COG low and am gonna cut most the sheet metal anyway so rubbing won't be a issue

Keep it low...but not tooooo low, depending on what you're planning on using this for you'll be dragging over everything (I was told my buggy was too low at full bump..which has more ground clearance than most XJ's)

 

[jdxj]

Jd's UglyBuggy Build

Axles:



1.) If you want to keep them alive...keep the rig LIGHT (well more so the D44...the 9" is easy beef). Without Chromo's or RCV's right away...your not much ahead of a D30.







2.) You're not going to be happy with 2" in the rear, many many many people will tell you that.



14" remote Resi's with coils or C/O's? 2" or 2.5"







Keep it low...but not tooooo low, depending on what you're planning on using this for you'll be dragging over everything (I was told my buggy was too low at full bump..which has more ground clearance than most XJ's)

Yea they were almost free so imma try em but plan on making a change later if need be!

 

[KRG.FAB]

Re: Jd's UglyBuggy Build

Sounds like it should be a sweet rig. I'd go with a full chop with frame build, weld the hatch and narrow the front. I'd ditch the exo cage and just do an interior cage to help keep the wait down, isn't going to be much body left to protect with a echo cage anyway.

 

[freerider15]

Re: Jd's UglyBuggy Build

2
THE CHOP definitely gonna chop the back at right behind the back doors And Narrow it

Question is Chop it all the way off and build a frame up truggy in the rear

or leave the floor and frame and build up from there.

I'm heavily leaning towards the first option.

Do any of these..and you'll more than likely regret it in the end. This coming from someone who basically planned on doing what RCMan did to the back of his...just much prior to his. Everyone I've known that has start to cut too much into an XJ...has just ended up cutting...tubing...not being happy after a little while..and scrapping it.

Why? Because if you're going to go that far...essentially building a buggy (or at least starting with an MJ) will be FAR FAR FAR less work an headaches. I've learned from my build...build around a previous platform can lead to compromises you wouldn't normally make...that you either decided to try and live with...or cut off more, and more, and more.

 

[jdxj]

Jd's UglyBuggy Build

Axles:



1.) If you want to keep them alive...keep the rig LIGHT (well more so the D44...the 9" is easy beef). Without Chromo's or RCV's right away...your not much ahead of a 30

Well I run penrose and carnage and the like!

But I have a pretty light foot, I ran 35s on the stock 30 for a few yrs and only broke a shaft once! But better shafts will be needed I know that just not in the budget yet! Once they break it's easier to talk the ball and chain into it!

 

[freerider15]

Re: Jd's UglyBuggy Build

3 Gears
planning for 5:38's i was running 5;46 with the 35's and wished i had deeper gears so i ws thinking 3 step- down rather than 2


4 Tcase
should i get a 300 and flip it and 4:1 it, or just go with a atlas and 4:1 gears or other ideas

3.) Go either 5.13's or 5.38's would be my choice. Unless you have some snazzy gearing and HP (which is no with 4.0L ) you're going to want a little deeper gears.

4.) If you have the funds...go atlas. If you really have some funds...go with a Trail Worthy Fab T-case. I'll be going with one of those over an Atlas if the day ever comes.

 

[jdxj]

Jd's UglyBuggy Build

Axles:



Keep it low...but not tooooo low, depending on what you're planning on using this for you'll be dragging over everything (I was told my buggy was too low at full bump..which has more ground clearance than most XJ's)

Yea I was at 7" before and it was way too tall! I'm thinkin 4.5 should be ok! At least if I need to make height adjustments later ill just need to replace the front coils!

 

[Elguapo]

Re: Jd's UglyBuggy Build

Sweet. Looking forward to your build JD

 

[freerider15]

Re: Jd's UglyBuggy Build

5 rear links

4 link w/ TB ,3 link w/tb ,dual triangulated 4 link W/O TB, radius arms Ive taken some good long looks at the busted knuckle garage radius arms for the broncos and could make those work pretty easy and they are tough as hell. Thats what the ultra 4 guy that i rebuilt the buggy for uses front and rear.

Why would you put a 4-link in the front with a panhard!?!?

Rear: definitely dual traingulated 4-link.

Front: 3-link with panhard, or I suppose keep the TNT stuff. Personally, I wouldn't keep the TNT stuff.

Radius Arms just shouldn't even be mentioned...I guess. Keep your TNT stuff before going to radius arms.

 

[freerider15]

Re: Jd's UglyBuggy Build

6 Hatch

should i relocate the hatch just behind the doors and weld it in place, don't have any desire for it to open. or just leave the back open and have a soft hatch back type cover made at a boat cover shop.

I like the idea of open in the summer but would like the warmth in the winter and not having to cover or park it inside.

THOUGHTS?????

7 front end

Almost sold on narrowing the front end a bit as well.......would cut the grill, header and sandwich it back together for a cleaner look.
gonna build fenders out of tube anyway so now would be a good time to narrow it if I'm ever gonna!

6.) Just ditch the rear hatch. If you end up doing much work back there you're going to ditch it anyways. To me...either ditch all the doors and hatch...or keep them all.

7.) Narrowing the front end while not difficult...is a lot more work and perseverance than most think...especially for it not to look like ass. If I were keeping a full body...I'd narrow it I guess. Though...at times it seems like a lot of work for little gain in the long run.

 

[freerider15]

Re: Jd's UglyBuggy Build

Yea they were almost free so imma try em but plan on making a change later if need be!

Yeah go ahead and run them for now, then switch to 2.5" Airs, C/O's, or ORI's. The 2" get pretty floppy jalopy on anything above ~3.5k lbs.

 

[jdxj]

Jd's UglyBuggy Build

Do any of these..and you'll more than likely regret it in the end. This coming from someone who basically planned on doing what RCMan did to the back of his...just much prior to his. Everyone I've known that has start to cut too much into an XJ...has just ended up cutting...tubing...not being happy after a little while..and scrapping it.



Why? Because if you're going to go that far...essentially building a buggy (or at least starting with an MJ) will be FAR FAR FAR less work an headaches. I've learned from my build...build around a previous platform can lead to compromises you wouldn't normally make...that you either decided to try and live with...or cut off more, and more, and more.

Makes since, I know a few guys that have chopped and like it but most don't! I just wanna have a hardcore rig and still have a cab so I can take the kids with! In a few yrs once the kids are old enough to drive their own rigs I plan to build a 2 seater! Either a MJ or just a buggy! The good thing is that I'm in the offroad buisness so I'm pretty much always gonna be building another rig just want to do justice to this one cause I bought it new and beat the sheet out if it! So I wanna make it cool again!

 

[freerider15]

Re: Jd's UglyBuggy Build

Well I run penrose and carnage and the like!

But I have a pretty light foot, I ran 35s on the stock 30 for a few yrs and only broke a shaft once! But better shafts will be needed I know that just not in the budget yet! Once they break it's easier to talk the ball and chain into it!

Yeah...but at that point you also had a fully body and thing to "protect".

Once you start coming to the dark side...all bets are off There's a difference between winching through parts of a trail...and driving the entire thing.

If you want the D44/9" to last, I would try and shoot for 4k lbs. or under with the Jeep. It's doable, but not easy. You lost most any and all creature comforts at that point.

I'd always be worrying about the D44 is my issue.