• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

steering overhaul

ehall

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Hi all,

I'm looking for a sanity check on a plan here. The TREs on the Currectlync setup that I've had on my woods beater for the past few years have gotten worked out and there's a ton of slop in my steering anymore. I'm planning to rebuild the front-end to get some additional down-travel and beef things up. I bought a Teraflex high-steer knuckle a while back as a starting point, and this is what I'm looking at:

Planned_Geometry_Drag_Under_sized.png


The governing angle is the drag-link to the knuckle. In order to get the trackbar parallel and the same length, I am looking at Stinky Fab adjustable axle-side bracket [1] near the inner C, and an out-boarded body-side bracket such as the Ruff-Stuff outside panhard bracket [2] (or maybe the Alpine Peak bracket [2b]). I may not have enough room to make the links exactly equal. Tie rod will go OTK on both knuckles (assuming the end link will fit below the drag link end, which it should).

Other items on the work list are JCR front stiffeners [3] to beef up the trackbar and steering (using their mids and want to match for fitment), TMR truss that works with this TJ Rubi D44 [4], Undercover Fab UCA passenger weld bracket [5] (had it before), and Artec inner-C gussets.

I have not decided on the links or ends yet. I'm favoring Summit Machine ends at the moment. I would probably buy their links too but their order page has gone missing so not sure they are selling those direct anymore. TMR sells some aluminum made-to-order for not too much so might do that. Suggestions appreciated.

Overalll I'm looking for a sanity check, if there will be problems that I'm not seeing.

I'm not interested in doing WJ knuckles or an axle swap, I like the TJ Rubi D44 with RCVs that I have now, and plan to convert/upgrade the outers later.

Thanks guys

[1] https://www.stinkyfab.com/collections/suspension/products/sfr-raised-track-bar-bracket-axle-end
[2] https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1154.html [2b] https://alpinepeakprecision.com/wp/shop/product/259/
[3] https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/XJUNS-F.html
[4] https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/axle-truss-kits/products/jeep-tj-front-dana-44-truss-kit
[5] https://undercoverfab.com/link-susp...pper-control-arm-mount-for-tj-dana-3044-.html
[6] https://artecindustries.com/products/inner-c-gussets
 
I have the Stinky Fab OTK Trackbar setup. Also, his Trackbar brace set up. I like it. Mines with a WJ BB setup. The guy who did the fab work, used a Tera-Flex knuckle on his TJ. Similar setup.
Mine are for the road, so I used 1-ton GM TREs.
 
Any reason you couldn't go OTK with the drag link end on the Teraflex knuckle? I'm assuming the knuckle is probably tapered bottom-up. Could you drill it and use an insert to flip to a top-down taper and run the TRE up top for super flat steering? Not that its necessary, but if you're going this far...

How are you planning on mounting the axle-side trackbar bracket out near the C? Are you coil mounts centered over the axle tube, or are they in front of the axle tube like the factory setup? If they're in front, there's no way you're getting the TB to the outboard side of the coil. If they're centered, it should work, but you'll likely need to put a bend in your drag link to clear the TB bracket. I just recently got my axle-side TB bracket placed on my JK 44 front. I put it outboard of the coil. There is just enough room for the drag link TRE at full steering cut, and I will need a bent drag link. I used an Artec JK Rear Trackbar Bracket JK4426 which is designed for a 3.15" diameter tube, but I modified it to fit.

I haven't placed my frame-side mount yet, but I also have a RuffStuff outside panhard bracket that I'm going to try to make work. I've had it in a box for years. I don't like that Alpine Peak Precision bracket because there is no adjustability at the frame side. I think that is important. Also, it says the bracket is 3/16" which feels a bit light. I think 1/4" is more appropriate for that mount.

I'm using GM 1-ton TRE's and 1.5" OD .250" wall DOM for my links. Tie rod uses the RuffStuff offset TRE's. I'm not sold on this approach and have been considering ordering a kit, but they're expensive. We'll see how this works out for me.
 
I used straight 1-tons on my first setup. It had Rusty's OTK trackbar. On the Second with Stinky Fabs, I had to use offsets. Also, I ran or run RuffStuffs diff cover with the steering stabilizer bracket. If properly setup, it is not needed. I used Ruffstuffs 1-ton Crossover kit on the first. I pieced together the second one. I don't think I saved any money. Also, Ruffstuffs TRE boots held up better than the ones I got off of EBay. I did put some from Bulgaria. Seems to hold up.
 
I have not decided on the links or ends yet. I'm favoring Summit Machine ends at the moment. I would probably buy their links too but their order page has gone missing so not sure they are selling those direct anymore. TMR sells some aluminum made-to-order for not too much so might do that. Suggestions appreciated.
The summit ends won't work for the trackbar, so I am looking at other options again. May use TREs or the Rock Jock johnny joints, probably a mix.

Any reason you couldn't go OTK with the drag link end on the Teraflex knuckle? I'm assuming the knuckle is probably tapered bottom-up.
It would make the trackbar at the axle really high. It's a possibility but just eye-balling seems unlikely:

Planned_Geometry_Drag_Over_sized.png


ps--the knuckle holes are not tapered, they are 7/8 straight.

How are you planning on mounting the axle-side trackbar bracket out near the C? Are you coil mounts centered over the axle tube, or are they in front of the axle tube like the factory setup? If they're in front, there's no way you're getting the TB to the outboard side of the coil. If they're centered, it should work, but you'll likely need to put a bend in your drag link to clear the TB bracket. I just recently got my axle-side TB bracket placed on my JK 44 front. I put it outboard of the coil. There is just enough room for the drag link TRE at full steering cut, and I will need a bent drag link. I used an Artec JK Rear Trackbar Bracket JK4426 which is designed for a 3.15" diameter tube, but I modified it to fit.
Eye-ball looks like I can fit it in where the sway-bar link is installed, but I may not be able.

I'm using GM 1-ton TRE's and 1.5" OD .250" wall DOM for my links. Tie rod uses the RuffStuff offset TRE's. I'm not sold on this approach and have been considering ordering a kit, but they're expensive. We'll see how this works out for me.
What thread size?
 
Last edited:
The summit ends won't work for the trackbar, so I am looking at other options again. May use TREs or the Rock Jock johnny joints, probably a mix.


It would make the trackbar at the axle really high. It's a possibility but just eye-balling seems unlikely:

Planned_Geometry_Drag_Over_sized.png


ps--the knuckle holes are not tapered, they are 7/8 straight.


Eye-ball looks like I can fit it in where the sway-bar link is installed, but I may not be able.


What thread size?

That does look awfully high when you draw it in. Nice and flat though.

The 1-ton TRE's use a 7/8"-18 thread. This is the kit that I bought with high angle TRE's for the drag link and offset TRE's for the tie rod.

 
Summit Machine Medium joint will work for the frame end of the track bar, don't rule out a high quality FK heim (Julene from Summit can provide these as well) at the axle end of the trackbar. I've run this setup for almost 2 decades, using the same Summit joint, replacing the heim once in 140k miles.

Im running WJ knuckles with an OTK high steer configuration, using DOM tubing and Teraflex offset TRE's to provide both HD diff cover clearance for the tie rod and also clearance for my TJ Rubicon 16" wheels, running total BS of 4" using a 1.25" billet hub centric spacer.
Not mentioned, is what wheel diameter you are running? If you're running 15" or 16" wheels, the TRE options become narrow and more critical, whereas 17"-18" wheels allow for more clearance for TRE's

XJ Buildup IIIFront end refresh.jpg
 
Last edited:
How did this end up turning out?

Id definitely run draglink over the knuckle if youve got enough oil pan clearance.

Track bar can be lower at frame side to clear oil pan.

Most likly a custom axle side and frame side to end matching drag link and clear oil pan.

I do have custom frame axle side track bar and still dented my oil pan. But alittle witness mark never hurt anything.

I love seeing these builds were good steering etc actually is tuned and thought out. Instead looking like the xj was bought from the McDonalds drive through line
 
Back
Top