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Triangulated 4 Link

Caged94XJ said:
I am looking at putting a triangulated 4 link in my XJ in the rear. I wanted to find out from some of you guys who have done this, what worked, what didn't, and how you did the math for where to place the cross member and link length? If you are going to ask what I have, it is a 94 2 door with extended wheel wells and I am trying to put 37s with a trussed 9 in. When all said and done I want a 107" wheel base and 9" of lift and 16" of suspention travel. I am doing research on my own as well, but there is a lot out there. I know there are a few of you out there who have done this. I want to know what you guys did that you like and what you would do different.

Quite a bit of opinion floating around this thread so far. And the funny thing is that from the specific point of reference of each poster, most of what has been said is true.

Why don't you give us your reasons and goals for choosing to do a four link. One of the benefits of a link suspension is that they have so much flexibility of setup and perfomance. No one is going to write a complete dissertation on link design, but there are likely things that can be shared based on your specific design and performance goals.

Here's a few things. I hope to gawd one of your goals isn't more flex.......that is dead. Leaf springs will flex and travel plenty. You said you want 16" of travel.......why? Not challenging your goal, just asking what you're going for and why. What do you expect 16" of travel to do for you?

What performance limitations are you currently experincing with your leaves that you want to cure with links?

Links can be set up to favor crawling and sticking, or full throttle blasts with minimal bouncing, or for road stability or rock stability, or for maximum droop to maintian traction at speed, or...............
 
Weasel said:
Twisted Customs won't touch those and most people around here stay away from them. Why? They get all kind of crap in the threads and gall up really bad, to the point they seize in the threads and don't move. They use hiems for everything and they work fine, I like JJ.
They ever here of anti-seize? I use it on the bolts and on the threads. Never had an issue. My wifes rig has heims (Q1a,aurora...)they all wear quickly..it's getting converted to RE joints for the wear and the noise issue. If I ran a comp buggy then maybe I wouldn't mine swapping out heims every so often along with other pre-event maintanence, but I'll stick to what I know works for me.
 
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BIGWOODY said:
They ever here of anti-seize? I use it on the bolts and on the threads. Never had an issue. My wifes rig has heims (Q1a,aurora...)they all wear quickly..it's getting converted to RE joints for the wear and the noise issue. If I ran a comp buggy then maybe I wouldn't mine swapping out heims every so often along with other pre-event maintanence, but I'll stick to what I know works for me.

No idea, I know they run what works well for them. Their rigs rock and they like the hiems end with no problems wearing out.
 
Capt. Nemo said:
Seems you've missed the entire point to this part of the board. Read the description, and then shoot your mouth off about not getting good advice and tech.

In the meantime, you can keep hanging out on the fire roads with your stock rig where you won't be limited by anything other than a locked gate. I can't think of one trail that I've been on where the body hasn't been a hassle keeping off of rocks or trees - impossible, no - a hassle, yes.

Sorry, I can't add any more tech to this thread since I'm still very happy with how my leaves are working on my full bodied XJ. I've seen plenty of 4 links - some seriously booty fabbed, others impressively engineered.


what ever you say there captain, my jeep has 39" tires and homebuilt 4 link in the front, im far from stock and take fire roads to get to my wheeling spots. like i stated in my previous post ive seen plenty of obsticales a full bodied rig makes look easy and a buggy has trouble, the description of this forum doesnt state you must not have a full bodied rig to post here. i stand by what i said 100%, i was simply trying to help the dude and encourage him to use the search function. thank you for prooving my point


this guy plays with the buggys with a full body and he has leafs in the back, it just takes driver skill. you dont need a buggy or a 4 link to be hardcore. LEARN HOW TO DRIVE

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=565890
 
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Too much funnay.

This thread has gone from, "how should I do it?" to, "you shouldn't do it" to, "leafs vs links" to, "full body vs buggy" to, "LH/RH vs RH/RH threads" to, "heim vs SF" to, "I won't tell you anyway cause your rig sucks and your mom dresses you funny."

OK, I made the last one up.
 
Goatman said:
And the funny thing is that from the specific point of reference of each poster, most of what has been said is true.

Very true. By the time you get to the point of building a linked rear, I'd hope you have a very good idea of what you're building the rig for and what expectations you have from the setup. This is different for everyone and is why threads like this often turn into mush.
 
Goatman said:
Quite a bit of opinion floating around this thread so far. And the funny thing is that from the specific point of reference of each poster, most of what has been said is true.

Why don't you give us your reasons and goals for choosing to do a four link. One of the benefits of a link suspension is that they have so much flexibility of setup and perfomance. No one is going to write a complete dissertation on link design, but there are likely things that can be shared based on your specific design and performance goals.

Here's a few things. I hope to gawd one of your goals isn't more flex.......that is dead. Leaf springs will flex and travel plenty. You said you want 16" of travel.......why? Not challenging your goal, just asking what you're going for and why. What do you expect 16" of travel to do for you?

What performance limitations are you currently experincing with your leaves that you want to cure with links?

Links can be set up to favor crawling and sticking, or full throttle blasts with minimal bouncing, or for road stability or rock stability, or for maximum droop to maintian traction at speed, or...............

I just want flex that is all. Just kidding! I am looking for a duel purpose vehicle. One that I can take out on the rocks and one I can race across the desert in. Leaves are great, but do not offer the stability I am looking for at high speed. I also like the ability to adjust and fine tune the suspension for the way I drive and the rig itself. After talking to some people here and else where I have decided that 16 inches of travel is too much for what I will be doing. I have since reduced it 14 inches of travel. I am also be running 2.5 14 inch Fox Air Shox. The ultimate goal here is to have a stable yet adjustable suspension that can handle air yet flex for rocks. I know some of you guys will say just get another rig for desert. This is the only Jeep I will have for awhile due to space. Leaves buck too much at speed and that is something I do not want. I am also for now keeping the body so I can keep it plated and the dawn HOA happy. The goal is to have a D44 front and Ford 9 rear full width. The front will run the TNT Y-link kit and the back will be 4 linked. 5.13s should give me the gearing to crawl and ok speed, not trying to break any records just chase a buggy. At this point I don't know what else to tell you guys. It has been a long project for me, and still more to go. I just want to set it up right...
 
I cannot add much, yet again. But I would recomend Rock Equipment Airshocks over anyother brand. Some of the guys round here have had EXCELLENT luck with them on dual purpose rigs. I will be running these on the MJ and it will serve daily driver duty at times.
 
Caged94XJ said:
I just want flex that is all. Just kidding! I am looking for a duel purpose vehicle. One that I can take out on the rocks and one I can race across the desert in. Leaves are great, but do not offer the stability I am looking for at high speed. I also like the ability to adjust and fine tune the suspension for the way I drive and the rig itself. After talking to some people here and else where I have decided that 16 inches of travel is too much for what I will be doing. I have since reduced it 14 inches of travel. I am also be running 2.5 14 inch Fox Air Shox. The ultimate goal here is to have a stable yet adjustable suspension that can handle air yet flex for rocks. I know some of you guys will say just get another rig for desert. This is the only Jeep I will have for awhile due to space. Leaves buck too much at speed and that is something I do not want. I am also for now keeping the body so I can keep it plated and the dawn HOA happy. The goal is to have a D44 front and Ford 9 rear full width. The front will run the TNT Y-link kit and the back will be 4 linked. 5.13s should give me the gearing to crawl and ok speed, not trying to break any records just chase a buggy. At this point I don't know what else to tell you guys. It has been a long project for me, and still more to go. I just want to set it up right...

Just discussing here. I don't get how you figure that links are more stable than leaves at speed, many times it's the other way around. Leaves are inherently stable, links can be very unstable with the soft spring rates required in the rear for speed. Stability in a softly sprung rear link usually comes from a sway bar and/or the roll center height. Problem with link stability is that you want a lower roll center for speed so the handling is more predictable (you can feel when you're leaning too much) and a higher roll center for rock work so you don't lean as much with soft springs and shocks (but the roll predictability is decreased so you can all of a sudden roll).

Also, I don't agree that leaves buck in the rear at speed. There are a ton of fast desert trucks and prerunners with good working rear leaf spring suspensions. Granted, a very well tuned link will outperform a very good leaf spring, but a very good leaf spring can easily outperform a poorly setup up link suspension. Bucking comes from the rear spring rate being too stiff, and the proper compression and rebound shock valving, and good bump stops. If the rebound is too soft in the back the rig will kick back up too hard, but if it's too hard the suspension won't drop out quick enough and the shocks can pack, meaning the valving won't allow the suspension to use it's full travel and travel can decrease progressively through certain whoops. Also, if the front spring rate is too soft that can help cause bucking since the front is bouncing more than it should.

Bottom line is that rear suspension handling and stability are controlled by spring rates and shock valving, much more than they are influenced by whether you have links or leaf springs. I'm not trying to make a case for or against links, just pointing out what you're really up against to get what you want. For example, you could go get a set of good Deaver leaves, and some shocks that many are already running, and get some good bumpstops, and you will be pretty well dialed in because so many people have already run that combo. If you go to links you'll have to play with spring rates and shock valving to get what you want.

As far as air shocks, they seem to work very well for short bursts through the desert, like getting from camp to the trail, but they WILL fade once they get run for awhile. And, I keep seeing guys mess with them, like leaks and air adjustments, and they do change ride height with changes in altitude......and you live in CO. This is my opinion...just my opinion, based on my observations. Air shocks are great for buggies, they work well in the rocks and kick ass for short speed runs, and they are cheap..........but, they are not for daily drivers or for rigs that want to do any type of prerunning type stuff. On a driver or trail rig, if they start to leak you will loose your springs and ride height. With leaves or coils, if you blow a shock you still have spring rate and ride height.....not with air shocks. They are NOT the panecea that some folks are making them out to be.
 
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