need alternator,01 xj, meen green?

[5-90]

My frankenstein XJ is part 89, 93, 95. All the parts I'm talking about here should be 95.

I dug this thread up hoping for a little more specific instructions on how to upgrade the charging cable going from the alternator to the PCM. I have all the other wires upgraded, just stuck on this one. I traced that cable to the PCM and where it terminates into it, I'm not even sure how it's attached. Is it a push-on terminal? If so, how do you replace this with a 2 gauge wire? There is no way a 2 gauge push-on terminal, assuming they exist, would fit in there. What did you mean when you said you fabricated your terminal for it? And for the people who have does this without fabricating anything, how did you do it?

Also, my cable has no in line fuse. I have the 150 amp fuse to replace it, but there is nothing to replace. Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Your alternator output cable goes up into the bottom of the PDC, and the circuit is protected by a pair of MAXI fuses inside the PDC labelled "Generator."

Remove the alternator output lead. Remove the MAXI fuses.

Run the new alternator output lead to the fender liner, terminating at a fuse block of your choice (I prefer ANL fuses - they're generally easier to get. MEGA fuses are also workable.) Run the other side of the fuse block to either the battery + post or the PDC input stud - electrically speaking, they're both the same connexion.

Et viola! You have solved the problem you're facing!

 

[darkenfire]

Yeah that's what I'll do, thanks for the responses jeepman and 5-90! I was thinking about bypassing the PDC, but was worried that it monitored the amperage coming from the alternator somehow and routed it where it was needed. Much appreciated.

 

[DPG]

OK, I've been reading multiple threads and posts on this and my head hurts.

1 question- Can I modify the PLUG on my 2000 XJ to work on the ZJ 136amp alternator? I need a new alternator yesterday, but don't wanna replace mine with a 117amp unit. Post #53 in this thread is on the topic, but I'm not clear on this.

If I can cut the plug off and add some ring terminal ends to the existing wires to get by, I can add the upgraded cables in a week or so- however long it takes to get them.

My factory 2000 XJ alternator has 2 connections only. A plug and a single terminal. That's it.

The ZJ unit has 2 terminals in one spot and what looks to be 2 more...:confused1
Looks like this:

If not, I'm tempted to just replace the 117amp unit and go on...

Thanks for any clarification!

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Dirk, there are two wires inside of that connector that make the Field connections from the PCM. You will need a schematic to determine which is the Generator Field Source and the Generator Field Driver. Once determined, the connections to an earlier (97+ to the change point...) is Source to connection 2 and Driver to connection 1.

A primer on our Alternators.

As the energized rotor begins to rotate within the generator, the spinning magnetic field induces acurrent into the stator coil windings. Once the current produced is high enough, it also provides the current needed to energize the rotor.

The "Y" type stator winding connections deliver the induced AC current to the diode pack (3 positive and 3 negative diodes) for rectification. From the diodes, the DC current is deliverd to the vehicle electrical system by the Batter (B+) post and the ground post.

The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) is contained in the PCM. The current needed to excite the generator is delivered to the generator via the Generator Field Source and the Generator Field Driver terminals on the generator. On a 97+ generator, those are post 2 and 1 respectively.

The voltage is regulated by cycling the the ground path to control the field strength. The EVR monitors system line voltage and the Battery Temperature. It then compensates accordingly.

Quick Tests:
1. A known fully charged battery installed.
2. Ensure the battery connections are good.
3. Place the blower in the high position and the headlights in the high-beam position.
4. Turn on the interior lights.
5. Bring the engine up to 2,400 RPM.
6. Touch the positive probe of a voltmeter to the B+ terminal of the generator and the negative probe to the positve post of the battery. A voltage drop of up to 0.6VDC is acceptable. If it is greater than that, you have a bad connection to find. Use this test at every junction to find it.
7. Touch the negative lead of the meter to the battery negative post and the positive lead to the generator ground stud a voltage drop of 0.3VDC is acceptable. Anything greater is a bad connection. Also test between the generator and the engine. Same rules apply.

Battery Temperature Sensor Test.
At "room" temperature (75-80 degrees F) the sensor should read 10,000 Ohms +/- 1,000 Ohms. Check it by unplugging the connector and reading the sensor. Any value found outside the limits means the sensor needs replacing. Critical part as the EVR uses this as part of the voltage control.

Hope this helps...

 

[jeepman75]

The 2000-01 alt's use a different connection type than the 99 and older.

You can either rewire what you have to work with the alt you posted the image of or I have read that you can upgrade using a 99+ Dodge Dakota 136amp alt. Best bet would be to take your old one to an auto parts store and compare it to the 99+ Dakota one.

If the Dakota one is bigger you will have shave the mounts as shown earlier in the thread and an upgrade to the wiring including a bigger inline fuse is a must.

 

[DPG]

Thanks guys. I was at Autozone this morning. I didn't look at the dakota alternator, but the 136amp unit for a 2000 Dodge Ram with 5.9V8 looks to be just the ticket. It is the larger case, which will require trimming the brackets, but the plug and stud connections on the back are EXACTLY the same as the alternator that came out of my 2000 XJ.

o-gauge: If the plug is the same, would I be safe in assuming that the connections would be right? Plug & play?

I'll cross reference that with the dakota unit and see what's up. The part# for the Dodge ram unit is #12073.

It's been suggested to check the '01-'04 WJ V8 units too. I did look at a couple of WJ units and the one's I saw didn't look like they were right. (Different case/mounts)

I'll post more later...

 

[O-Gauge Steamer]

Dirk, You betcha! It's a Chryco product!

As an aside I lifted my (now gone...) 97 with parts I got from you!

 

[austinaubinoe]

Are you really having issues with the stock 117 amp alt? IDK seems more trouble then its worth. Now Wagoneer alternators are a whole different story!

Well I guess when you need to replace, might aswell go bigger. Let us know what alt works!

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

Thanks guys. I was at Autozone this morning. I didn't look at the dakota alternator, but the 136amp unit for a 2000 Dodge Ram with 5.9V8 looks to be just the ticket. It is the larger case, which will require trimming the brackets, but the plug and stud connections on the back are EXACTLY the same as the alternator that came out of my 2000 XJ.

o-gauge: If the plug is the same, would I be safe in assuming that the connections would be right? Plug & play?

I'll cross reference that with the dakota unit and see what's up. The part# for the Dodge ram unit is #12073.

It's been suggested to check the '01-'04 WJ V8 units too. I did look at a couple of WJ units and the one's I saw didn't look like they were right. (Different case/mounts)

I'll post more later...

you need the ZJ alternators, not WJ. should be the same exact unit as the dakota/durango unit. 1998 is a good year to compare for all of these vehicles. case is bigger, keyed boot on the back is clocked differently (use the one off of your stock alternator), and its a 7 groove pulley instead of a 6 (again, old alt gives you the needed parts)... these are the only differences. make it fit and its plug and play.

EDIT:
sorry, i didnt see your year. hope you get it figured out.

 

[DPG]

Yep. I bought this XJ because it belonged to a customer and we built it. It's got upgraded IPF headlights and a set of IPF driveing lights and the previous owner had added a winch, so I wanna beef up the alternator and cables while I'm at it.

Got the part# 12073. Fit's 2000 Dodge ran V8 and '99 Dodge dakota V8- same part# for both.
This is the unit that is plug & play on a 2000 (and I assume 2001) XJ.

Still need to clearance the mounting brackets, of course.

I'm gonna hook it up and run it til my upgraded cables get here soon...

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

im having no problems running a ZJ alternator on my '97 without upgrading the cables. but im not powering anything thats not OEM anyway. youll be fine until you get your cables. im jealous as i cant offord mine yet. haha.

 

[DPG]

Well, it's in. Kind of a pain though, overall. Broken brackets, Stuff didn't wanna line up. Just one of those days for me where everything wants to figh:wierd:t...

 

[dieselenthusiast]

That was a small upgrade available, also standard in the police XJ's.

Can you still buy the upgraded alternator that came in the police package?

 

[DPG]

Guess I forgot about this project!

I finished my swap way back in February of 2011 and it's been working great since.

Had to pick up some brackets from the salvage as mine were broken.
Had to clearance the bracketry to fit the larger 136amp unit and got it installed.

Installed the HD cables a little later and life is good...

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Guess I forgot about this project!

I finished my swap way back in February of 2011 and it's been working great since.

Had to pick up some brackets from the salvage as mine were broken.
Had to clearance the bracketry to fit the larger 136amp unit and got it installed.

Installed the HD cables a little later and life is good...

Thanks Dirk. Since I have a 2000 like yours, I might go with the same part# 12073 that fits the 2000 Dodge Ram V8 and 1999 Dodge Dakota V8. Why was your bracket broke? Or did you break it, lol.

 

[DPG]

Thanks Dirk. Since I have a 2000 like yours, I might go with the same part# 12073 that fits the 2000 Dodge Ram V8 and 1999 Dodge Dakota V8. Why was your bracket broke? Or did you break it, lol.

My jeep had a motor swap done as it had the infamous 0331 head crack issue.
I think the factory alternator bracket didn't get bolted in correctly at that time and subsequently cracked. I didn't even know it until I was doing the alternator upgrade.

Got a bracket from the salvage yard, clearanced it and off we went.

I think the #12073 is the way to go...

 

[dieselenthusiast]

I think the #12073 is the way to go...

Is that the Autozone part# or univeral part#?

 

[DPG]

Is that the Autozone part# or univeral part#?

Don't recall for sure, but I think I ended up getting mine at Autozone, so that should be their part#...

 

[dieselenthusiast]

Dirk, did you keep your OE pulley?

 

[DPG]

Dirk, did you keep your OE pulley?

I don't recall for sure. The original pulley was a different size than what came on the new unit and the new one had 1 more groove, IIRC.

I can go look, but I think I left the pulley on the new unit that came on it and just run it with 1 empty groove. No problem...