• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

need alternator,01 xj, meen green?

Running the alternator with a smaller than stock pulley will spin the alternator faster allowing the alternator to load earlier, but if the pulley is larger than the stock pulley then the alternator will spin slower delaying the load and requiring the engine RPMs to be higher to charge the system.
That is why I swapped my pulley so I wouldnt have this problem.
 
Running the alternator with a smaller than stock pulley will spin the alternator faster allowing the alternator to load earlier, but if the pulley is larger than the stock pulley then the alternator will spin slower delaying the load and requiring the engine RPMs to be higher to charge the system.
That is why I swapped my pulley so I wouldnt have this problem.

Sorry for the noob question, but....

Since the pulley on the swapped alternator has the original pulley for that alternator that it was designed with, wouldn't this eliminate this potential issue?
 
Sorry for the noob question, but....

Since the pulley on the swapped alternator has the original pulley for that alternator that it was designed with, wouldn't this eliminate this potential issue?

The pulley on the '98 ZJ alternator was larger and the pulley on the '98 XJ pulley was smaller... and on my Jeep the alternator would turn slower. The pulley size is figured into the other pulley sizes for the waterpump, power steering etc....
If the situations were different; where the XJ pulley were larger and the ZJ pulley were smaller, then I could use the ZJ pulley to have the alternator load at an earlier RPM.
 
so, about that brand new meengreen that i have in the livingroom: i paid $400

will SELL it for $300


my rig is trail only these days wit no extra electronics, m not even runnin a stereo in her...........i wasted my $ buyin a hi-amp alt. i put in a 241roctrac n cud use the $ for a new driveshaft..................
 
as it says in the directions:
part# mg1382
high performance alternator
designed to fit all
jeep wrangler(tj) 1999-2001 2.5l and 1999 4.0l
jeep cherokee(xj) 1999-2001 2.5l and 1999-2001 4.0l
 
Bumping this thread back up again. Need to replace my alternator ASAP, and am wondering if there's any reason not to go with the Durango 160a alternator over the 136a one that people use from grand cherokees. Will the 160a produce more amps at idle?

Also does anybody know if these two require the same amount of grinding to get them to fit? So is the case size the same on the 98 Grand Cherokee 5.2L alternator as the Durango 160a (part # 12329), anyone know?

This is going on a 93 XJ, BTW. Thanks.
 
Will the 160a produce more amps at idle?
===================================
1. YES, Idle is were most people need extra output. When slow offing with tons of extra light, duel batteries can also place and extra load on the alt.
2. The larger alt (in size) CAN also cool better. Even if the larger alt has the same rated out. IT MAY out perform the small one at any given RPM buy running cooler keep internal temp and resistance down. As temps go up amps go down at same RPM.
 
Will the 160a produce more amps at idle?
===================================
1. YES, Idle is were most people need extra output. When slow offing with tons of extra light, duel batteries can also place and extra load on the alt.
2. The larger alt (in size) CAN also cool better. Even if the larger alt has the same rated out. IT MAY out perform the small one at any given RPM buy running cooler keep internal temp and resistance down. As temps go up amps go down at same RPM.

Ok, thanks, I appreciate your response. Does anybody know if the 160a one is the same size as the 136a and takes the same amount of grinding to get it to fit?
 
after your main wires are upgraded, the bigger alternator wont burn anything else in the electric system? i like the idea of the 160amp alt from a durango.. i have a 90xj and most things i find about this engine setup is different than the 91 and up 4.0..
 
No none of the other wires are in immediate danger as they are all fused. The reason the mains are being upgraded is to allow the higher current to flow through unrestricted when the demand is there. Otherwise you're trying to push a peak of 160A through a line that was originally meant for 90A.
 
Seems as though this discussion continually surfaces....

As 5-90 said you WILL need to upgrade you battery cables and the charging cable from the alternator to the PCM in the engine compartment.

When I did the uprade I built my own cables from 2 ga fine stranded polarity colored pos and neg cables with fusion battery clamps and terminals. The ground pigtail and the alternator charging lead were 4 ga fine stranded with fusion terminals.
When I upgraded the charging cable I remove the small fusible link and installed a 150A marine grade mini buss fuse and fabricated another terminal for the PCM.
standard.jpg

Used a 136A alternator from a 98 ZJ 5.2L 4x4 which required that I grind the aluminum mounting bracket as shown previously and also the black stamped steel front mount to clear the larger alternator case.
You will need to remove the original charging cable terminal boot and install it on the new alternator since there is a pin that positions the boot properly. Good idea to swap the serpentine pulley since the XJ and ZJ pulleys are different diameters and extra grooves.


This modification has worked very well with upgraded headlights, off road lights, ham radios, and several other items...

My frankenstein XJ is part 89, 93, 95. All the parts I'm talking about here should be 95.

I dug this thread up hoping for a little more specific instructions on how to upgrade the charging cable going from the alternator to the PCM. I have all the other wires upgraded, just stuck on this one. I traced that cable to the PCM and where it terminates into it, I'm not even sure how it's attached. Is it a push-on terminal? If so, how do you replace this with a 2 gauge wire? There is no way a 2 gauge push-on terminal, assuming they exist, would fit in there. What did you mean when you said you fabricated your terminal for it? And for the people who have does this without fabricating anything, how did you do it?

Also, my cable has no in line fuse. I have the 150 amp fuse to replace it, but there is nothing to replace. Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
If you could take a picture and post so I can see what your PCM terminals look like.
My XJ is a 98 and there have been changes overthe years.
There is a small bump in the cable going from the alternator to the PCM which is the fusible link.
If your PCM terminals differ too much from mine you will have to locate terminal lugs to fit your needs.
 
depends on what you plan on doing with it. i put a 160 on mine and it runs my offroad lights , on board air, and winch. something to think about as i have worked through this issue is the high output als dont charge crap until you are on the peddle. so when you do upgrade, make or buy an overdrive pulley for it, and as an added bonus i installed the teraflex handthrottle for when im outside the vehicle. shoudnt need to go much more than 160, unless you plan or running everything all at once, while your stereo system is thumpin. i bought mine off of ebay with a warranty. very reasonable. i wouldnt be grinding anything. they make bolt up applications.
 
My frankenstein XJ is part 89, 93, 95. All the parts I'm talking about here should be 95.

I dug this thread up hoping for a little more specific instructions on how to upgrade the charging cable going from the alternator to the PCM. I have all the other wires upgraded, just stuck on this one. I traced that cable to the PCM and where it terminates into it, I'm not even sure how it's attached. Is it a push-on terminal? If so, how do you replace this with a 2 gauge wire? There is no way a 2 gauge push-on terminal, assuming they exist, would fit in there. What did you mean when you said you fabricated your terminal for it? And for the people who have does this without fabricating anything, how did you do it?

Also, my cable has no in line fuse. I have the 150 amp fuse to replace it, but there is nothing to replace. Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Does your PDC box look like the pic you quoted but with a cover over the wires going into the PDC?
Like the first pic in this post?
http://naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244797463&postcount=7

If so then you just pop the cover off and the wire is held on with a nut.

As for an in line fuse are you saying your stock wire coming from the alt to the PDC doesn't have one? Also as far as I know in line fuses on the stock cables are not replaceable, if it blows you have to replace the whole wire.
 
If you could take a picture and post so I can see what your PCM terminals look like.
My XJ is a 98 and there have been changes overthe years.
There is a small bump in the cable going from the alternator to the PCM which is the fusible link.
If your PCM terminals differ too much from mine you will have to locate terminal lugs to fit your needs.


Does your PDC box look like the pic you quoted but with a cover over the wires going into the PDC?
Like the first pic in this post?
http://naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244797463&postcount=7

If so then you just pop the cover off and the wire is held on with a nut.

As for an in line fuse are you saying your stock wire coming from the alt to the PDC doesn't have one? Also as far as I know in line fuses on the stock cables are not replaceable, if it blows you have to replace the whole wire.

Bottom

2011-01-14_10-59-20_371.jpg


Front

2011-01-14_10-59-11_592.jpg


Top

2011-01-14_10-59-03_205.jpg


2011-01-14_10-21-39_84.jpg


The alternator wire is the black one with the white stripe on it in the picture above (90 % sure, I didn't cut open the electrical tape binding all the wires together to follow it yet, but resistance check says that's it). Thinking it was a push-on type terminal I yanked on it, but to no avail. I assumed the connector in the line wasn't a fuse because there was no replaceable part, so what jeepman says makes sense, but frustrates me even more because this wire should be fairly easy to disconnect if that's true! But no my pcm is not like the one pictured, I wish it was. I figure once I get the wire out of the PCM I can reuse that terminal, just solder the 2 gauge, or 4 gauge if 2 doesn't fit, wire onto it, and replace. Should I yank harder on the wire? I was hoping someone has already done this and I could get their advice before potentially breaking my pcm.
 
The alternator wire is the black one with the white stripe on it in the picture above (90 % sure, I didn't cut open the electrical tape binding all the wires together to follow it yet, but resistance check says that's it). Thinking it was a push-on type terminal I yanked on it, but to no avail. I assumed the connector in the line wasn't a fuse because there was no replaceable part, so what jeepman says makes sense, but frustrates me even more because this wire should be fairly easy to disconnect if that's true! But no my pcm is not like the one pictured, I wish it was. I figure once I get the wire out of the PCM I can reuse that terminal, just solder the 2 gauge, or 4 gauge if 2 doesn't fit, wire onto it, and replace. Should I yank harder on the wire? I was hoping someone has already done this and I could get their advice before potentially breaking my pcm.

I have the wiring sheet from the 93 FSM and it appears to match your wiring setup. The main wire that is attached with nuts to your PDC comes from the battery. Goes to the blue 60amp fuse and back out to the blk-wht wire that goes to the alt. Is the 150amp fuse you have the same type as the 60amp blue fuse?

I would just bypass the blk-wht wire since the only reason it is running into the PDC is for the 60amp fuse. Later models used the in line fused link why you see the maxi fuse pics in me and CharlesS setups. I would run a new wire from your alt to a new higher amp fuse (depending on what amp alt you are running) then run the other side to either the terminal on your PDC or strait to the positive battery terminal. Since it looks like the blk-wht wire also feeds power back to the PDC after the 60amp fuse and you do bypass it make sure it is cut off after the split back to the PDC.

Here is the page from the 93 FSM showing the wiring layout.
wiring_23.jpg


Hope that helps.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top