- Location
- Torrance, CA
cracker said:And get a drive line
Details, details.
I'll let you know about the Compton Connection later on - got an idea that may pan out...
-
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My getting ready for JV thread...
- Thread starter GSequoia
- Start date
Details, details.
I'll let you know about the Compton Connection later on - got an idea that may pan out...
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
looks good G...
maybe ill have to make a thread once i start on sunday... and then update it on wednsday
Im leaving thursday (the 16th) after class...
maybe ill have to make a thread once i start on sunday...
and then update it on wednsday Im leaving thursday (the 16th) after class...
- Location
- Torrance, CA
XJ_ranger said:
It's a great motivator.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Tonight after work I installed the transfer case so there's one thing off my list.
Money shot.
Took the belly pan off and dropped the transmission to get those top bolts.
Muscled the transfer case into place and started bolting it up to the transmission.
Jacked it back up to put the transmission mount, shift linkage, and belly pan back on.
That's it.
Money shot.
Took the belly pan off and dropped the transmission to get those top bolts.
Muscled the transfer case into place and started bolting it up to the transmission.
Jacked it back up to put the transmission mount, shift linkage, and belly pan back on.
That's it.
Matt S.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fresno, CA
Dang... I want to go for a ride! I like it!
- Location
- San Bruno, CA.
G, you're my hero. When I grow up I want to be just like you!
jmaxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- in My shorts.
NO!!! we can't have two of him :laugh3:Jes said:
WobblesXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- South Carolina
How in the world did you get your transmission to drop that far? I couldn't get mine to come that far down for the life of me.
Had to use a stubby wrench and a mm of movement at a time to get mine out. Not to mention they hadn't been removed since who knows when so breaking them loose was terrible with no decent leverage.
Looks good by the way.
Had to use a stubby wrench and a mm of movement at a time to get mine out. Not to mention they hadn't been removed since who knows when so breaking them loose was terrible with no decent leverage.
Looks good by the way.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
WobblesXJ said:
The transfer case linkage binds and keeps the trans from dropping. When you have it removed it'll drop further.
WobblesXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- South Carolina
Hmm strange, I had all the Tcase linkages and cables/plugs disconnected. Still couldn't get it that far. You sure your engine mounts are good or did you disconnect that too?
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Engine mounts are soft.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Another productive day, got the major stuff done. I didn't get a whole lot of pictures becasue I was in the zone of working and forgot about the camera a lot... Here's what I have.
In the interest of getting the job done fast I decided to just use the OEM drum brakes (mainly becuase I would have less to worry about with brake lines) so today I put them together and bent axle brake lines.
I mounted the hard line to the truss wing using zip tie anchors mounted with #10 machine screws and nylock nuts then zip tied to these anchors, I think this will be sufficient.
I mounted the T to the wing as well (thus giving me about an extra 1.5" - 2" of rubber brake line) for simplicity, it is mounted with a 7/16" bolt with nylock nut.
(The hole you see in the tube is tapped to 1/4" NPT for an axle vent, I just need to get a nipple for it.)
Now came the meat of the job. I removed the Dana 35 and tossed it aside...
After that was done I removed the shackles, put my 1" lift shackles on, then tore apart the leaf packs to add my two extra leaves (I initially planned this pack for this lift, when my old pack ended up as a W I removed those leaves to use it with my 3" lift).
Bolted the axle up to it and measured for shocks. The pack feels a bit stiff (one of the things I was afraid of) however I won't really know until I drive the pig.
I also got the ARB compressor mounted (up where the Airbox used to go, put my air intake tube in to make room) and started firguing out the wiring.
Now the Jeep looks like this:
Remaining on the list:
Replace pinion seal in the 44.
Replace ARB seal housing in the 30.
Fill differentials with slippery stuff.
Fill transfer case with thinner slippery stuff.
Figure out rear driveline.
Plumb transmission and power steering coolers.
Install header panel, grill, and front lights.
Make bracket for winch solenoid pack, mount it, wire it.
Wire ARB compressor and solenoids.
Plumb ARB lockers.
In the interest of getting the job done fast I decided to just use the OEM drum brakes (mainly becuase I would have less to worry about with brake lines) so today I put them together and bent axle brake lines.
I mounted the hard line to the truss wing using zip tie anchors mounted with #10 machine screws and nylock nuts then zip tied to these anchors, I think this will be sufficient.
I mounted the T to the wing as well (thus giving me about an extra 1.5" - 2" of rubber brake line) for simplicity, it is mounted with a 7/16" bolt with nylock nut.
(The hole you see in the tube is tapped to 1/4" NPT for an axle vent, I just need to get a nipple for it.)
Now came the meat of the job. I removed the Dana 35 and tossed it aside...
After that was done I removed the shackles, put my 1" lift shackles on, then tore apart the leaf packs to add my two extra leaves (I initially planned this pack for this lift, when my old pack ended up as a W I removed those leaves to use it with my 3" lift).
Bolted the axle up to it and measured for shocks. The pack feels a bit stiff (one of the things I was afraid of) however I won't really know until I drive the pig.
I also got the ARB compressor mounted (up where the Airbox used to go, put my air intake tube in to make room) and started firguing out the wiring.
Now the Jeep looks like this:
Remaining on the list:
Replace pinion seal in the 44.
Replace ARB seal housing in the 30.
Fill differentials with slippery stuff.
Fill transfer case with thinner slippery stuff.
Figure out rear driveline.
Plumb transmission and power steering coolers.
Install header panel, grill, and front lights.
Make bracket for winch solenoid pack, mount it, wire it.
Wire ARB compressor and solenoids.
Plumb ARB lockers.
RWKHausSupply
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- yorba linda, Cali
posted in the wrong thread.
Last edited:
- Location
- Torrance, CA
cracker said:
Waited by the phone all day for you to call me back!
I think I've got the wheelbase and castor nailed down, that was a pain in the ass. Track bar is adjusted right now with some bias toward the drivers side, will finish that up after some driving. Measured for shocks.
Got the front ARB repaired (might have trouble with that bulkhead fitting though, tight fit around the UCA, going to have to redo that again). Tested both lockers (they work), ran the line for the rear, and got the engine bay portion of the ARB stuff wired up, still need to run the lines into the cab for the controls.
Wired the winch, still have to make a bracket for the solenoid pack, got a couple ideas there...
Plumbed the coolers and put the header panel back toghether, looks like a Jeep now.
Still gotta tighten all the bolts and jam nuts and squirt grease in all my zerks. Also need to adjust toe in and put some driveshafts in (got a front still worknig on the rear, hint hint!).
Getting there...
No pictures today, camera is in the Jeep and I didn't take a lot of them today, will take some pictures when I get the rest of it done.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Combined update from yesterday and today, still not many pictures since I was working too much.
As previously mentioned I plumbed up my coolers and put the header panel back together.
Yes I bent up 3/8" hard line to use for most of the plumbing, this way I could get nice tight bends without fear of kinked hoses.
Twenty one slots baby!
Today I started out by swapping out that pinion seal on the 44 (no pictures) then moved on to taking the drums off so I could replace the one bad stud I had per axle.
After that I dropped the belly pan so I could tighten the bolts for the control arms and mount up my front driveline. Somehow the front axle shifted forward two inches (without me noticing!) so when I went to put the driveline in it was too short.
After smokeing a cigarette and some panic I got out the tape measure and saw that the axle was forward those two inches. Connected the driveline ot the transfer case side (it's really hard to get to that with the pan on) then proceeded to put the belly pan back on; that took some work since everything was now off kilter. Got the pan in and measured the wheelbase (101.5") so I'm still good.
Although the front shaft is still too short. At static height (about 5.5" or a bit more) it's fully extended. Damn.
When I get it all buttoned up I found a stripped hole in teh frame for the bellypan, noe of the OEM crossmember holes. I just happened to have the right Heli-Coil kit so I took care of it.
Next I tightened up all the linkage bolts and jam nuts and filled the diff. Then I went around and hit all the zerks I have (I hate it when grease guns get stuck on zerks) and pakced up and went home.
Tomorrow I only have to swap exhausts and tank skids, got a bit late for making noise so I stopped.
Oh yaeh, also gotta fill the rear diff.
Sequoia
As previously mentioned I plumbed up my coolers and put the header panel back together.
Yes I bent up 3/8" hard line to use for most of the plumbing, this way I could get nice tight bends without fear of kinked hoses.
Twenty one slots baby!
Today I started out by swapping out that pinion seal on the 44 (no pictures) then moved on to taking the drums off so I could replace the one bad stud I had per axle.
After that I dropped the belly pan so I could tighten the bolts for the control arms and mount up my front driveline. Somehow the front axle shifted forward two inches (without me noticing!) so when I went to put the driveline in it was too short.
After smokeing a cigarette and some panic I got out the tape measure and saw that the axle was forward those two inches. Connected the driveline ot the transfer case side (it's really hard to get to that with the pan on) then proceeded to put the belly pan back on; that took some work since everything was now off kilter. Got the pan in and measured the wheelbase (101.5") so I'm still good.
Although the front shaft is still too short. At static height (about 5.5" or a bit more) it's fully extended. Damn.
When I get it all buttoned up I found a stripped hole in teh frame for the bellypan, noe of the OEM crossmember holes. I just happened to have the right Heli-Coil kit so I took care of it.
Next I tightened up all the linkage bolts and jam nuts and filled the diff. Then I went around and hit all the zerks I have (I hate it when grease guns get stuck on zerks) and pakced up and went home.
Tomorrow I only have to swap exhausts and tank skids, got a bit late for making noise so I stopped.
Oh yaeh, also gotta fill the rear diff.
Sequoia
vetteboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- morganville, nj
Man, you're cookin on this thing! Nice work, and congratulations on keeping the motivation too.
I've been severely lacking in that department lately.
I've been severely lacking in that department lately.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Progress made!
Started out with making my block off plate for the old disconnect housing.
After that I filled the rear axle with oil, secured the fuel tank (no more ratchet straps!), swapped the tank skid from the Chief, and swapped the exhaust from the Chief. (The exhaust came from this Jeep, when I tore the exhaust from the Chief I stole it)
Zip tied the solenoid pack to the grill and took it for a test drive.
Noticed an awful sound adn chased it for about five minutes. Fan shroud. When I put it back in I missed on of the mounting feet so it was occasionally rubbing against the fan. Fixed that and the noise was gone.
After my victory drive to the gas station and to get some food I put the rock rails back on - they're rather temporary as the are not secured to the frame, that is going to require welding...
But, it's just about there!
Hardcore flexing shot for you boys.
Some observations. Cherokees feel funy when you're driving them in front wheel drive. When you get on the gas it sucks the front right side down.
They also feel funny when you're running on shocks that are maxxed out just to install them (in fact I had to compress the suspension about an inch to bolt them up). Not much body roll though! (No sway bars)
My baby is back home!
Sequoia
Started out with making my block off plate for the old disconnect housing.
After that I filled the rear axle with oil, secured the fuel tank (no more ratchet straps!), swapped the tank skid from the Chief, and swapped the exhaust from the Chief. (The exhaust came from this Jeep, when I tore the exhaust from the Chief I stole it)
Zip tied the solenoid pack to the grill and took it for a test drive.
Noticed an awful sound adn chased it for about five minutes. Fan shroud. When I put it back in I missed on of the mounting feet so it was occasionally rubbing against the fan. Fixed that and the noise was gone.
After my victory drive to the gas station and to get some food I put the rock rails back on - they're rather temporary as the are not secured to the frame, that is going to require welding...
But, it's just about there!
Hardcore flexing shot for you boys.
Some observations. Cherokees feel funy when you're driving them in front wheel drive. When you get on the gas it sucks the front right side down.
They also feel funny when you're running on shocks that are maxxed out just to install them (in fact I had to compress the suspension about an inch to bolt them up). Not much body roll though! (No sway bars)
My baby is back home!
Sequoia
