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Hydro-Assist just got cheaper! under $100

VegasAnthony said:
Ok so Ill go by the part list and when I get it all together I wont be able to hook up my hoses cause I dont have a

the corect adapter for the pump that is linked to from THE PARTS LIST ..

BUT for anyone else reading this thread that little glitch wont happen to them cause they read the entire post

basically it ends up being that the pump could have one of three fittings on it
the one on the linky is 3/8" NPT..

nhrocker got it right

NAXJA :exclamati

I'm still confused.

I don't see 3/8 anywhere on the parts list, I ordered all the stuff on the list and didn't get any 3/8 parts, and all the fittings went where they were supposed to.

I'm also not sure what you mean by 'pump', cuz I didn't touch the pump except to replace the whole friggin thing when I broke the plastic nipple off the reservoir.
 
vetteboy said:
I'm still confused.

I don't see 3/8 anywhere on the parts list, I ordered all the stuff on the list and didn't get any 3/8 parts, and all the fittings went where they were supposed to.

I'm also not sure what you mean by 'pump', cuz I didn't touch the pump except to replace the whole friggin thing when I broke the plastic nipple off the reservoir.

ok sorry i was tired
pump= ram..my bad


this ram
p9-4410C.jpg


has on it
Ports 3/8" NPT..right ??
sor you need a bushing that makes the 1/4NPT fit the 3/8" port ..or am i mistaken??:smoker:
 
So I saw this cylinder at Orscheln's Farm and Home.

Any thoughts on whether or not it should be used?

scans2.jpg


Delavan hydraulic cylinder Datasheet information
  • 2x8
  • 1 inch pins
  • 18 to 20 inches in length (retracted)
  • appx 3 inches square outside measurement
  • $64.99
  • 2500 psi working pressure
 
Yeah....the 2" bore is gonna give you slow response with the stock pump. To be honest I'm not even that satisfied with the stock pump and my 1.5" bore cylinder.
 
vetteboy said:
Yeah....the 2" bore is gonna give you slow response with the stock pump. To be honest I'm not even that satisfied with the stock pump and my 1.5" bore cylinder.
Hadn't thought about that, that's why I was asking. Thanks
 
can somebody affirm this?

i need to know what the hell to do for a box. durango seems very appealing with the larger piston and all........

i know avery is full hydro now so he couldnt have been too happy with that leak monster box of his....

any real opinions on the matter please?


cracker said:
but why?

A durango box is $200ish at most places and yuou can send your XJ box to PSC to be rebuilt for the same price ported. Also with the durango box you MIGHT have to take it apart from the start to remove the pin limiting the sector shaft travel.

I
 
I wouldn't bother with the Durango box. It's a great choice if you're NOT planning on adding hydro-assist and are looking for a stronger bolt-in solution. But the larger piston in the Durango box will add more stress to the frame side of things - one big advantage of the assist is that it takes stress off the frame side - and it'll require even more flow to work quickly.
 
im also noticing that the ram originally mentioned in the parts list has been discontinued sooo do that mean.....



HYDRO ASSIST JUST GOT MORE EXPENSIVE!
 
if you could do it over what would you choose?


vetteboy said:
Yeah....the 2" bore is gonna give you slow response with the stock pump. To be honest I'm not even that satisfied with the stock pump and my 1.5" bore cylinder.
 
I haven't tried modding the pump for more flow yet. I think if I do that it'll make a difference, however I'm not entirely sure where the bottlenecks in the system are right now.

The pressure is fine though. As long as I don't try and turn faster than the pump can fill the cylinders, it has more than enough force to move the 39.5s around. Going with a Durango box will give you even more force but will be even slower with the stock pump.
 
i searched and checked the threads ive got great pictures to locate where i drill the holes on my steering box but i cant seem to find out what size/type of hle they are tapping. im sure i just missed the information, any help would be great
 
88rockxj said:
i searched and checked the threads ive got great pictures to locate where i drill the holes on my steering box but i cant seem to find out what size/type of hle they are tapping. im sure i just missed the information, any help would be great
Most people use a 1/4" NPT tap, which needs a 7/16" whole IIRC.
 
rockwerks said:
That's the same one I got. Haven't had a chance to mount it yet. It's been sitting here for months...

I was surprised at how much play there is in the eyes, but I don't think it'll be an issue. I also had some spacers made so I can use 1/2" bolts instead of the 3/4" it's made for. I figure 1/2" bolts will act as a fuse and break before anything else. Carrying spare bolts is a lot easier than taking out the linkages, knuckles, etc.
 
this is what im thinking of doing
# ordered Item Price each onhand price
2 9-6405-4-4 SAE 4M x 1/4 NPTF ADAPTER $2.19 Yes $4.38
2 9-1501-4-4 1/4 NPTM x 1/4 NPTF 90 SWIVEL $1.95 Yes $3.90
2 9-1503-4-4 1/4 NPTM x 1/4 NPTF 45 SWIVEL $2.95 Yes $5.90
2 916-1436 1/4" X 36" 1/4 NPTM X 1/4 NPTM 2750 PSI HYD HOSE $7.35 Yes $14.70
1 9-7257-8 1X8X0.625 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES $79.95 Yes $79.95
Subtotal: $108.83
Tax: __________
Shipping: __________
Handling: $2.00
Total: ___$122.97_______




Ref. Number: 2007060109394708
 
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What about mounting on top of the pitman arm, That is if you have a system like the bulletproof ones, with Heim joints. I read this somewhere and can't find it now. This will keep it far away from rocks.
 
MudDogg said:
What about mounting on top of the pitman arm, That is if you have a system like the bulletproof ones, with Heim joints. I read this somewhere and can't find it now. This will keep it far away from rocks.

I believe part of the idea is to reduce stresses on the frame. Running a ram to the pitman would require frame mounting.

It might work axelhousing to draglink though like a stabilizer. I've never seen it done that way, though.
 
MudDogg said:
What about mounting on top of the pitman arm, That is if you have a system like the bulletproof ones, with Heim joints. I read this somewhere and can't find it now. This will keep it far away from rocks.

That puts more stress on the steering box mounts, Drag link, panhard bar, and Passenger side knuckle.

I have seen D60 knuckles snap from mounting the ram similar to this.
I would only mount it to the tierod sharing the load to both knuckles.

Make a skid to protect it and keep it on the tierod. Mine gets beat on really hard, bent the 1/2in plate skid and have not had to replace the ram yet.
 
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