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Flop resurrection

am i the only one who thinks, i mean knows, that the perches will tear right off the housing the first time out in the rocks?

110v welders have NO place on suspension work.
you have NO place on suspention work
Tell that to Sam (ktmracer419).

110V welders can work fine if things are beveled and pre-heated.
This, mine is all 110 welder and has had the shit beat out of it all year without issue
 
Is that a tiny chinese benchtop drill press with a fancy keyless chuck on it? If so, I like your style.
 
i use my 110v for everything, works just fine. just have to take your time. i've never had a weld fail and i'm definitely not easy on my heep.
 
110v welders have NO place on suspension work.


They also make a huge difference on the thinner sheet metal stuff too.

IMG_2284.jpg
 
The plan is to strengthen the top plates with ribbing. I had made an attempt to to cut and bend the ends like stock ones, but this wasn't worth the effort. I plan to just a few pieces of angle in both directions to keep them from flexing. I just ha to do what I could to get this back in wheels so I can load it on a trailer for a move I am making.
 
The track bar and tie rod are both completely temporary!! I am ditching the drop rustys mount and using an outside frame mount from rough stuff an an offset axle mount from ruff stuff as well.

I do plan on doing what Cracker said, and what vanimal suggest a few weeks ago, and push the track bar forward a bit.

The drop pitman arm definitely has to go, and I will replace with a stock to start. I plan to do a cross over steering set up with the tie rod mounted over the knuckle.

I am pretty nervous about using my tiny welder on the front axle. I have been reading a lot about the guys on here doing okay with it, but I do plan to hammer on it close to home once I get this rolling. If it doesn't hold, I should know pretty quickly!!
 
The drop pitman arm definitely has to go, and I will replace with a stock to start. I plan to do a cross over steering set up with the tie rod mounted over the knuckle.

!!
look into getting a WJ pitman arm, you will have to file down the master keys but it will give you full steering of the 60
 
The track bar and tie rod are both completely temporary!! I am ditching the drop rustys mount and using an outside frame mount from rough stuff an an offset axle mount from ruff stuff as well.

I do plan on doing what Cracker said, and what vanimal suggest a few weeks ago, and push the track bar forward a bit.

The drop pitman arm definitely has to go, and I will replace with a stock to start. I plan to do a cross over steering set up with the tie rod mounted over the knuckle.

I am pretty nervous about using my tiny welder on the front axle. I have been reading a lot about the guys on here doing okay with it, but I do plan to hammer on it close to home once I get this rolling. If it doesn't hold, I should know pretty quickly!!

You can't run a crossover with your axle side track bar location and not expect to have bad bump steer. An inverted 'T' set up you could eliminate the bump steer but at high steep you'll have a tiny 'dead' spot in the middle.

I wouldn't use the little welder especially if you are not comfortable with it. Bigger tires put more stresses on things as you get into bigger obstacles. Borrow Jeeper Johns 211 and a generator and get them burned in where you are comfortable to wheel it.

edit:

Like this

2011-11-21_16-50-49_836.jpg
 
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I've been looking for a pic like that, thanks cracker! This I will have to do!

I took a few measurements last night and couldn't really find a place for the axle mount for the track bar that would give it the length I need. You set up should work for me just fine.

I'm really not setting this rig up for high speed, but I guess it would be nice to have the ability to do some go fast.

And thanks for the info on the WJ arm, I will look for one.
 
here is another shot.

the panhard is mounted to the inner C in order to get it equal length to the drag link
garzasteering2.jpg
 
the track bar bracket i got from ORW is pretty decent for crossover steering, might be worth checking out. it got my angles spot on with a zj pitman and OTK WJ swap. track bar is shorter than the drag link but i dont really get much for bumpsteer. works fine.
 
the track bar bracket i got from ORW is pretty decent for crossover steering, might be worth checking out. it got my angles spot on with a zj pitman and OTK WJ swap. track bar is shorter than the drag link but i dont really get much for bumpsteer. works fine.

Hit the high speed in the desert and it is a different world than on the road; more so with the whoops. Proper angles are golden when done right.

I always build the axle bracket as far to the passenger side as possible as long as it doesn't hit the steering at full lock. Then I 'guestimate' the length of the track bar and make a drag link the same length and tack it all into place (making an inverted 'T'). The next thing I do is make the chassis side track bar and dial that track bar angle to exactly the same as the drag link. I then make the track bar and it should be good to go.
 
I know thats all good advice Garrett and I'd follow what Cracker has to say on equal lengths but I'd go either hems or tre's as far as spare parts is concerned. Tre's you can buy at Napa in Lucerne or Hesperia if your at the Hammers. You've seen mine in action and if I loose a tre I have spares. The same as when I had heims heck my van runs heims. Just make it equal either way but understand that spare parts are always in need when you go bigger due to torque and ride angles!
 
Thanks guys, Cracker is explaining it pretty much to the T I think, but I have ridden in Vanimals rig and it does ride super nice!

My goal is to things spot on as far as equal angles an lengths go. I am goin ton use Heims all around with hydro assist, all of which has been on order and are waiting for delivery, just need the DOM tube, which will be 1.5", .25" wall.

Nelson!! I need to get those harnesses from you!! Are you going to goatfest?!
 
here is another shot.

the panhard is mounted to the inner C in order to get it equal length to the drag link
garzasteering2.jpg

I like how this set up gets the full length out of the track bar, but I'm not so sure about the single sheer at the axle end. Also, is there no way to mount the tie rod above the knuckle rather than under it? I know it's only an inch, but you know what they say.
 
I like how this set up gets the full length out of the track bar, but I'm not so sure about the single sheer at the axle end. Also, is there no way to mount the tie rod above the knuckle rather than under it? I know it's only an inch, but you know what they say.

Single sheer usually holds but I don't like it as much on mechanical steering as much as I do on full hydro when the steering forces are removed from the chassis.
 
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