Best upgrades you've done?

[JohnX]

School me on this mirror thing? Why?

Nevermind...it all made sense when I git in the jeep today. :doh:

 

[JohnX]

I wanted that Jeep!



But I'll get over it.
.

I know, I only wanted to be second in line behind you....but I think proximity and time came to the party. Sorry Tom, I still like you though. :smootch:

 

[75SV1]

Metal Steering box spacer. Also, some type of steering box brace. I have used Ironman's. Boostwerks and some others have good ones.
I do run Stinky Fabs trackbar brace. Others make them RE, Ironman that I have. Alpine and Northridge.

 

[DaJudge]

Somewhere buried in the past there was a "favorite mods thread". Wonder if it still exists?
I once said it was adding cruise control, that is probably still high on the list.
But that has been surpassed by the PRP seats!

 

[Rockwood]

5.3 LM7

 

[JohnX]

:greensmok

5.3 LM7

 

[kastein]

T-case shifter linkage would be another good mod. I have the Boostwerks on Scope Creep and much prefer it over the stock linkage. Much more pleasant to use. However I suspect the aftermarket linkages are less tolerant of motor/trans mount play. I am running Brown Dog motor mounts and an SFR trans mount, so that play isn't much of an issue for me, but I haven't pushed Varmint #1 in that direction on account of the potential scope creep.

I believe you are correct. The factory unit with the bellcrank between the transmission bracket and transmission tunnel bracket is specifically designed in that complicated manner to eliminate any shifter response from motor mount or chassis flex; the shifter handle connects to an arm very close to the body pivot point so that its motion is minimal and always converts to the same degree of rotation, then the transfer case side of the linkage connects to another arm very close to the transmission pivot point to turn that rotation angle back into linear motion without introducing any variation there too. If they had put greasable sealed spherical joints on all 6 of the moving points in the linkage instead of crummy hard rubber bushings, I would never use anything but a factory tcase linkage.

Technically speaking a set of very worn out engine and transmission mounts and the factory tcase shifter "gate" can result in drivetrain movement applying enough force to the tcase shifter to go past the detents and apply pressure to the shift fork pads while driving, but I have never *noticeably* had an issue with this. The ideal answer is either to use a factory style (but in good condition) shift linkage, or eliminate the shifter gate so the shifter can't fetch up against it when the drivetrain flexes on the mounts and moves the shifter handle slightly trying to keep the tcase shift cam in one of the detents. Or use aftermarket upgrade motor and transmission mounts but I didn't want to do that as I drive way too many miles in this turd and have never had an issue with stock mounts anyways.

 

[chris420]

Warn Hub Spin Free kit it would be perfect if you are using it for the street a lot. After that Currie Rock Jock steering then JKS unibody front reinforcement kit.

 

[JohnX]

Warn Hub Spin Free kit it would be perfect if you are using it for the street a lot.

I've never understood this...yes, I know what it does, just don't see the point? I've had no less than a dozen cherokees with big lifts, big tires, lockers, and none of them had poor street manors in any way. So is it just for the 0.3mpg improvement?

 

[TheXJDrew]

My favorite upgrades I’ve done would be
#1 1 ton axles. The capability and strength is great and the road manners are really nice.
#2 Atlas tcase. For the lower range, but mainly front digs

 

[chris420]

I've never understood this...yes, I know what it does, just don't see the point? I've had no less than a dozen cherokees with big lifts, big tires, lockers, and none of them had poor street manors in any way. So is it just for the 0.3mpg improvement?

Has nothing to do with MPG. XJ vibes are amplified in the cab so if you can eliminate spinning the front drive shaft you will eliminate noise in the cab. Also easy to service wheel bearings.

 

[RCP Phx]

One that is cheap and easy with great results is a overdrive power steering pulley from PSC.

 

[Evan03]

No idea
Winch
Maybe wj steering
Steering brace/frame reinforcement
4.88 gears
Coilovers valved for my rig
Grizzly front locker
Miller rear locker
3 link front.
Prp daily driver seat
Sliders, bumpers, fenders

Maybe kinda in this order

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk

 

[Root Moose]

One that is cheap and easy with great results is a overdrive power steering pulley from PSC.

Can you elaborate? What does this do for the Jeep?

 

[RCP Phx]

At low rpm when crawling the steering pump doesn't put out much, increasing the pump rpm helps with that by pumping more!

 

[RCP Phx]

At low rpm when crawling the steering pump doesn't put out much, increasing the pump rpm helps with that by pumping more!

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/psc-pp2401.html

 

[Rob Mayercik]

I think in my case it was swapping out the sealed-beam headlights for a set of H4 e-code housings (in my case, the $25/pair Autopals on eBay) - what a night-and-day difference, no pun intended, even before I added the relay harness.

 

[maxbraketorque]

I'm curious to see what everyone's favorite upgrades are? Got a new 88 xj to build. Plan is 3" lift with 31s, keeping it very streetable.

Besides the obvious lift...what could you not live without doing?

There some things that are highly advised if you plan on any serious off roading. I wouldn't call them "best upgrades" because they often don't change the vehicle behavior in any obvious way, but they are among the first that should be done.

- Steel steering box spacer.
- Steering box brace.
- Proactively replace the crank position sensor.
- Make sure the engine cooling system is in top condition.
- Add recovery points.
- Winch.

Those aside, I would focus first on selecting a good lift.

 

[JohnX]

Has nothing to do with MPG. XJ vibes are amplified in the cab so if you can eliminate spinning the front drive shaft you will eliminate noise in the cab. Also easy to service wheel bearings.

I guess I've never experienced the front shaft vibration issue...my angles are always correct and I keep good joints in my shaft.

As for the bearings....unit bearing don't need any servicing in my experience, which is even better.

 

[JohnX]

Looks like the immediate list will include...

T-Case skid from stinkyfab.com
3" lift
Bump stops
Shocks
Front locker
CAD delete with alloy shafts
New front bearings
Rock rails
Steering box brace and spacer

And hopefully before SoCal Fest I can swap out the d35 uke: