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Flop resurrection

No progress today but Vanimal came trough big time by setting me up with some 4" lift coils!!

This is the pic of my 8" coil under full weight vs the 4" coil. 8" coil is still an inch taller compressed!!
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Anyhow, I'm getting some stock leafs tomorrow so I can build a leaf pack to bring the rear down to a more user friendly height.
 
i took some pics while i drank all Garrett's beer and watched him work.
lowered to about 4" of lift. sits 1/4" higher than my jeep on 35's.
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welded on the rear spring perches.
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chopped the top.
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Atleast we got 30 mins of wheeling in, mixed with almost having to knock out a punk mountain biker that wouldn't stop running his mouth!!

So Dan talks like he posts?
 
Also got the front axle all welded up.

I decided to to just use the standard mig wire, and heat the housing up, then post heat multiple times. Seams to have worked out quite well.

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I decided to do multiple passes in a few locations on the welds due to the fact I'm using a small 110v Lincoln. I also set up a temporary tie rod and track bar So I can move it around a little easier.

And now as it sets at about ride height. The rear is still about 1.5" lower than it will be. Still need to finish that.

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Is the top plate permanet holding the leaf springs on? Can I recommend some ribbing or other 3rd dimentional bracing up there? We had a 1450 truck add U-bolt eliminators and he bent the top plate pretty good the first test session.

Love the eliminators though. I need to move that higher on my list of things to fab up.
 
Is the top plate permanet holding the leaf springs on? Can I recommend some ribbing or other 3rd dimentional bracing up there? We had a 1450 truck add U-bolt eliminators and he bent the top plate pretty good the first test session.

Love the eliminators though. I need to move that higher on my list of things to fab up.

X 10......those will tweak as they are real fast.
 
Is this full bump?

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The track bar bracket should be moved forward by just drilling a new hole top and bottom (make certain you leave a bolt in the most rear hole since it holds the motor mount). Plate the frame rails all the way up front and then weld the track bar bracket on.

That pitman arm should be swapped out with one closer to a stock drop or it will connect the tie rod.

Get that axle up as high as possible at full bump and worrk from there.
 
Those spring plates and perches seem really, really long; I would expect that to affect ride quality :)laugh2:) and suspension flexibility significantly. Also those spring plates definitely need cross bracing ribs... even the stock ones (made from 1/4 plate iirc) have formed edges to avoid bending. I've had great luck with my flat 1/2" stock plates, but 1/4" and probably even 3/8" plates would greatly benefit from stiffening ribs parallel to the axle housing.
 
am i the only one who thinks, i mean knows, that the perches will tear right off the housing the first time out in the rocks?

110v welders have NO place on suspension work.
 
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