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DIY TC Drop ALL input welcome

I'm ready to make my first set of TC drop brackets!!! I have plenty of bar stock and square tubing laying around. But the measurments I'm finding on websites claiming 1.25" to 3" of drop. Obviously it depends on the application??? This is my FIRST COMPLETELY DIY project.

96 HO, 0630 head, AW4 w/231, D30 up front, C8.25 out back 200K on the clock

Currently:
3" RC lift (new springs, add a leaf, lower control arms)
31x10.5 15s
With a very slight undiagnose vibration at speeds over 60mph

If the TC drop cures that vibration, I will go for an additional 2" of lift using coil spacers and shackles and live with the vibes until I can afford a SYE.

So one more time,
How much of a drop am I looking for!
 
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There is no fixed amount on how much to drop the TC or what size the shims need to be to get the pinion angle correct. You may find people that have the same setup and they can give you and idea where to start with the drop. This will be a job where you need to install, measure, adjust, drive and then adjust again. What you want to achieve is a condition where the pinion is pointing up at exactly the same angle that the TC output shaft is pointing down when under power. This will make both the front and rear u-joints turn through the exact same angle. When they dont turn through the same angle you get vibrations. Dont forget that when you apply power the pinion will rotate up a degree or so depending on the stiffness and condition of your rear springs so static the pinion will be a degree or so low.

You need some sort of gauge to measure pinion angle and TC case output shaft angle. A cheap inclinometer from home depot will do the job close enough. When I did this on my 92 XJ (AW4. 8.25 rear back when I first got it) I used a stack of 1/8 inch thick aluminum bar stock about an inch wide that I got at home depot. If you can find 1/4 inch that will make things easier. I liked this better than using square tubing since I could adjust it easily, it wouldnt compress and I could get the stack thickness dead on.

First step is to measure the angles you have. Disconnect the drive shaft and drop the rear end of the shaft (dont pull the front you will loose your tranny fluid). Measure the pinion angle. Then find a surface that is either perpendicular or parallel to the TC output shaft and measure the down angle of the TC output shaft. You may need to use a piece of angle iron held up against the TC case rear face sticking down to give you a place to measure from. Write the measurements down. Calculate how much change you got per inch of shim.

Once you get both angles you just take an educated guess and put in some spacers. Try an inch to start with. Measure again and see how much of a change it made in the angles. If the pinion is a degree or so lower than the TC output shaft you MIGHT be done so its time to put the DS back in and test drive it. If the angles are not correct or you drive it and get vibes you will need to change the thickness of the shim stack. Use your calculations to make a guess on how much to add (or subtract) and do it all again.

After just a few tries (2 to 4) you will probably have it spot on. You must measure. Eye balling can be deceiving. Since the pinion rotation under power is going to vary so much the final shim adjustment will be a flat out guess adding or subtracting a shim or two.

Its fairly easy but it takes a little patience. BTW dropping the TC can mess up you TC skid position (factory skid) so it becomes real tough to put it back in. If you drop too much you can mess up your shift linkage so it wont engage into park properly. If you have to go over an inch try using shims under the axle to partially correct the pinion angle so you dont need to throw away vital ground clearance at the center of the rig. Ground clearance and the ability to loose a shaft and not loose the tranny fluid were the main reasons I quickly went to an SYE.

John
 
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Didn't the RC lift come with the t-case drop?

Negative! And I'm NOT gonna drop $50.00 on a set of ?.??" hockey pucks because they say Rough Country on the side!!!

There is no fixed amount on how much to drop the TC or what size the shims need to be to get the pinion angle correct. You may find people that have the same setup and they can give you and idea where to start with the drop. This will be a job where you need to install, measure, adjust, drive and then adjust again. What you want to achieve is a condition where the pinion is pointing up at exactly the same angle that the TC output shaft is pointing down when under power. This will make both the front and rear u-joints turn through the exact same angle. When they dont turn through the same angle you get vibrations. Dont forget that when you apply power the pinion will rotate up a degree or so depending on the stiffness and condition of your rear springs so static the pinion will be a degree or so low.

You need some sort of gauge to measure pinion angle and TC case output shaft angle. A cheap inclinometer from home depot will do the job close enough. When I did this on my 92 XJ (AW4. 8.25 rear back when I first got it) I used a stack of 1/8 inch thick aluminum bar stock about an inch wide that I got at home depot. If you can find 1/4 inch that will make things easier. I liked this better than using square tubing since I could adjust it easily, it wouldnt compress and I could get the stack thickness dead on.

First step is to measure the angles you have. Disconnect the drive shaft and drop the rear end of the shaft (dont pull the front you will loose your tranny fluid). Measure the pinion angle. Then find a surface that is either perpendicular or parallel to the TC output shaft and measure the down angle of the TC output shaft. You may need to use a piece of angle iron held up against the TC case rear face sticking down to give you a place to measure from. Write the measurements down. Calculate how much change you got per inch of shim.

Once you get both angles you just take an educated guess and put in some spacers. Try an inch to start with. Measure again and see how much of a change it made in the angles. If the pinion is a degree or so lower than the TC output shaft you MIGHT be done so its time to put the DS back in and test drive it. If the angles are not correct or you drive it and get vibes you will need to change the thickness of the shim stack. Use your calculations to make a guess on how much to add (or subtract) and do it all again.

After just a few tries (2 to 4) you will probably have it spot on. You must measure. Eye balling can be deceiving. Since the pinion rotation under power is going to vary so much the final shim adjustment will be a flat out guess adding or subtracting a shim or two.

Its fairly easy but it takes a little patience. BTW dropping the TC can mess up you TC skid position (factory skid) so it becomes real tough to put it back in. If you drop too much you can mess up your shift linkage so it wont engage into park properly. If you have to go over an inch try using shims under the axle to partially correct the pinion angle so you dont need to throw away vital ground clearance at the center of the rig. Ground clearance and the ability to loose a shaft and not loose the tranny fluid were the main reasons I quickly went to an SYE.

John

People like you Sir, are awesome!

The shim idea is awesome, though I not really excited about doing the whole process 2-4 times then possibly again when I can afford a set of Brown Dog motor mounts and tranny mount. I know I'm trying to "Band-Aid" my problem till $ becomes less of an issue. I like doing the cheap/free stuff first anyway. As far as the skid plate are concerned, very few people this far south run them on anything other than the front (Baja style) because everybody Is treading through water, mud and swamp. There's NO elevation down here. Just the occasional giant seashell!!!

Thanks a lot...
 
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