1999 XJ project

[rckymtnguy]

My 99 XJ will be getting 3.5" of RE lift and 31x10.50s which by my calculations are going to increase my ride height by about 5.5" over where the XJ sits now. That changes the geometry quite a bit. Now... I am probably over thinking this, but my engineers brain starts asking "how does really affect things? " I want to belive that most of these the "factors" have been taken into account by the lift manufacturers so I should just follow the instructions and eveything should be ok... "right"? I don't know about that one.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the front end and I run across the adjustable Ball Joints. So I am thinking.... why would I even consider those? What does lifting the front by 3.5" actually change about the geometry of the alignment?

How much trouble have you had with keeping your alignment straight after a lift like the RE 3.5" Superflex? It does include the lower control Arms, and I will be ordering the RE adjustable track bar, as well as replacing nearly every movable joint int he front end. ( debating on the UCA's now)

Should I consider the adjustable ball joints now to save myself some trouble later? :huh:

I realize I am not running this thing around a race track, but I want to do it right the first time. Is it in the original engineering from Jeep that makes them so easy / popular to modify the suspension?

 

[rckymtnguy]

Steering linkage arrived today

 

[rckymtnguy]

Almost forgot about this... rigged up my own seal press tool with some 1/2" all thread, a few washers and the old seals. It worked pretty well.

 

[rckymtnguy]

On to my TC ?

NP231J with 21 spline.
I found a TC that is marked as manufactured in 96, but it has a 21 count spline input gear. My 99 XJ should have a 23 spline from what info I can gather. The used TC I found has just a few hundred miles on new chains, seals, SYE and upgraded steel shift fork. I got it for around $300

I think I can swap out the input gear from my stock TC, or buy one from Novak.

Is this really a DIY job though? the TC Isn't all that complicated bu I am sure it can be screwed up. :variety:

here is the tag

 

[clean4drxj]

Using your stock input you can easily make that 23 spline, There really isn't much to a 231 case(very simplified)

 

[rckymtnguy]

I am thinking I can get a few bucks ( enough to pay for the new gear ) out of the used TC so I may go that rout if it saves me from tearing both units down.

Using your stock input you can easily make that 23 spline, There really isn't much to a 231 case(very simplified)

 

[rckymtnguy]

I completed the Ball Joints yesterday, that is another story all on its own, so I am almost ready for the real fun to begin! My RE 3.5" lift, adjustable track bar, shocks, and hardware will be ordered most likely before Christmas ( my plan right now is to buy from Serious Offroad in the Springs) I may order the shocks this week.. because they have a good deal on a 4 pack of Bilstiens. I still need to tackle the UCA bushings, and I am going to attempt to relocate the horns.

 

[rckymtnguy]

This project is coming along slowly but surely.
I've replaced / or have ready all of the components on the front end.
Inner axle seal
Ball Joints upper and lower
Tie rod and drag link ends
UCA bushings body and axle
axle U joints
front hub bearings

Ordering my lift today. :clap:

I currently have the front axle pulled off, and debating about any thing else I should do while I have it apart and out of the way? I've got a few oil leaks, I think the valve pan cover is the source of most of it, but the rear main seal probably needs done. Do I replace the rear main seal now while I have the axle off, or just wait until after I do the valve cover gasket and see how bad the leak is. I HATE leaks.

I would also like to replace that ugly dented up exhaust down pipe. :huh:

THIS is the passenger side motor mount... sure looks like a bolt is missing !

 

[GordoSmasho]

Do them both now. It's a few hours but having the axle out of the way will make the work a lot easier.

 

[rckymtnguy]

Well, Project XJ is officially in the red, I just ordered the RE 3.5 Superflex kit, + the C8.25 bolts and an adjustable RE trac bar from Serious Offroad (http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com) as of about 15mins ago.

In the mean time I replaced the valve cover gasket and started on the rear main seal.

has been a huge help... and the adventure is only just beginning.

 

[rckymtnguy]

WOW that was fast! the credit card transaction barely had time to post and I have a living room full of RE parts.

Here is a quick visual comparison of the stock coils up against the RE 3.5 coils.

 

[rckymtnguy]

Had several things to take care of before I could get started installing the lift and as usual thing take longer than you expect. While I was waiting on parts ( which wasn't very long) I replaced the RMS, oil pan gasket, and the valve cover gasket. Lord I hope it doesn't leak...
Finally tomorrow I will get the front axle put back together and get the front suspension lift installed.

 

[rckymtnguy]

Next... straightening the steering wheel and centering the axle,.
I have not driven the Jeep yet, I only pulled it out if the garage and turned it around to back it in and begin the rear work.

I have the RE adjustable track bar.
Once I got the front end all back together. I can visibly see that the axle is sitting farther to the passenger side a few inches, maybe more, so do I need to pull the trac bar at the axle mount and turn it so that its shorter to pull the axle towards the drivers side?

Also I know this will move the steering wheel some, but its completely upside down right now, what else can I do to adjust the steering wheel to center ? What about adjusting the drag link distance to change the steering wheel position?

 

[Tacedaddy]

unhook the track bar and use the steering wheel to center the axle FIRST then increase the length of the drag link at the pitman arm to re-center your steering wheel. Next get out your tape measure and measure between the center of the front of the wheels to the center of the back of the wheels i set mine with the front about 1/2 inch narrower. then fix the steering wheel again and..... All done

 

[Madnutz_Motorz]

A few things I would do (and did to my 98) as add-ons is a fire extinguisher, onboard air, some kind of tool supply with a stock of replacement parts such as U-Joints, ect... Flashlight mount, hi-lift under rear seat is pretty cool and I love it. hhmmmm Roof rack is nuce to give u more room in the rear cargo area, Mine had a 3 inch easy ride lift from rough country but still wasnt high enough. I put 4.5 inch lift coils in the front, rear shackle relocators and lift shackles. New shocks front and rear to match the new lift. My springs are pretty worn out so I just baught some 4 inch lift springs for the rear to replace them and those stupid lift blocks. It seams every time i do something to the rig I see something else I want to do. I am sticking with 31 inch tires so I got some Cooper Discoverer AT3's and they are AWESOME in the mud and snow and have exelent wear on the freeway. They also have great reviews...I was kind of disapointed on how NON-AGRESSIVE they look but their performance makes up for it ..... My next mods will be a long arm kit for the front, finish my front bumper and winch mount (after the Unibody gets some serious strengthening), and install my lift springs in the rear. here is a pic. She has come a long way and I have a list of stuff still to do. This is an expedition rig and as i wont be doing serious rock crawling i do not want to be stopped by any washed out road. She will go where I want her to go when I am done!!!

 

[rckymtnguy]

Spring eye bolts SUCK! both front bolts seized in the sleeve. Ended up cutting one side out. Still working on the other and I am afraid I may have stripped the nut in the body because the bolt seized just shy of a few threads from being all the way out of the nut... I wont know the damage until I get the whole thing off.


Meanwhile I am setting up the new springs to go in with the axle shims. Does this look right? with the left side being the rear? Would you threadlock these bolts and how much torque?

 

[rckymtnguy]

f'n jeep

 

[beastlydumass]

either tap it or cut a slot punch the nut out and put a new flag nut back in

 

[rckymtnguy]

Doesnt cutting a hole in the pocket affect its strength?

I found a heli-coil kit, plan right now is to try to use it to repair the threads and hope the nut does not break loose.

But that means I am on the hunt for a 1 time use 19/32 drill bit.

 

[rckymtnguy]

I used a heli-coil insert to repair the threads. Ended up costing me about $25 for the kit and $20 for the 19/32" drill bit.

This is after I drilled out the hole to 19/32, will post a few more pics once they get loaded.