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I like my DPG 4" OME Hybrid Kit. I’m going to add the JKS shackle to make up for some of the rear sagging that happened after I installed the JCR bumper and tire carrier. I also tow a trailer.
According to Dirk at DPG, the JKS shackle will give me about a 1" lift in the rear.
"Our XJ Shackle is specifically designed to optimize rear suspension travel on Jeep® Cherokees. The extended length and boomerang design allows full compression and extension of the leaf springs, in addition to increasing rear ride height by approximately 1".
XJ Shackles utilize a heavy duty 0.25" steel construction that is laser cut, CNC formed and MIG welded for exceptional strength and accuracy. The rigid one-piece construction prevents premature bushing fatigue, a common problem on Jeep Cherokees with inferior shackle designs.
Greasable Dura-Thane™ bushings and hardware are included for the chassis end of each XJ Shackle for smooth, quiet operation and easy lubrication. A durable powdercoat finish is applied for corrosion resistance."
Dirk told me that he suggested not using extended shackles or the relocation brackets because they change how the leg spring pivots or something like that and that try add stress to the rear part of the spring just before the mounting point of the shackle.
Dirk told me that he suggested not using extended shackles or the relocation brackets because they change how the leg spring pivots or something like that and that try add stress to the rear part of the spring just before the mounting point of the shackle.
He might be right, although he was the one who recommended the JKS shackles and ordered them for me no more than 4 months ago. He said not only would they bring me back to ride height, but they would provide increased articulation.
When I ordered the DGP 4” OME Hybrid Kit, I told him that I was adding the JCR rear bumper with tire carrier. That’s why I have the dual springs designed for carrying heavy loads; however, he did give me the Medium Duty rear springs instead of the Heavy Duty springs. He said that the Medium Duty rear springs will be perfect for daily driving and towing, but the added tire carrier would cause my rear to sag about ½ - 1”. Sure enough, he was right. I lost exactly 1”.
The maximum shackle length that Dirk will recommend is the Comanche length that will give you an inch of lift on an XJ. I decided I needed the dual rate springs to hold the weight of my XJ. They gave me the 3/4-1 inch additional lift over my old springs that I wanted. It holds the tongue weight of my ski boat much better now.
I am starting to prep the 99 for her mods. I've got leaking front axle seals, so first major work will be to get the front hub's broke loose and the axles pulled. I'll decide as I go as to whether I replace the ball joints and hub bearings and what not..
About getting the diff tore down enough to replace the inner seals, do I need any special tools ? Can I do this without taking the diff completely apart? If there is a thread detailing this work, please let me know I did not find it in a search. !!
I'm off to Sears to pickup a full set of 12pt sockets... been meaning to do that for a while anyway.
Ok I posted this in another thread also, but since I started here I figure I will finish.
Last night I got the front end opened up, and the axles pulled.
The passenger side came apart really easy, making me suspect the hub assembly has been replaced before. I have new assemblies so I will replace them anyway. Of course my goal right now is to replace the inner axle seals.
Also the axle U Joints seem to be pretty solid, not really sure how to verify that other than looking for any sort of play. :thumbup:
the fun part will be getting the diff out... but from my limited amount of knowledge it looks in pretty good shape for 180k... not that the 4x4 has been used much at all.
the easy part is getting the diff out once you pulled the shafts. i just pull the caps, put an 11/16" box wrench on one of the ring gear bolts, rotate the carrier so that the wrench is against one side of the housing, and use a pry bar on the bolt on the other side of the housing to pry the carrier loose. make sure you catch the carrier so you dont chip the ring gear on the ground. and mark the bearing caps so it's easy to tell which one goes on what side, and in what orientation.
Also while i have the axles out... replace or not to replace the u-joints, that is the question? Anyone know a shop in the Littleton / Centennial area that could do that for a fair price? I don't have a vise in my garage.
The diff will literally pop out with a little prying. THOSE INNER AXLE SEALS SUCK BTW!
i went through 4 trying to get them aligned and re-installed.. they kept wanting to go in crooked
I used a long broom handle hammer and a large socket (Like 1 7/8) to seat the seals
the easy way to pop the old ones out is to find the socket that fits loosely in the outside of the axle stick your broom in there and hammer till they pop out... i tried prying the first one out with a screwdriver and just mangled it
Yep... she popped right out. I also didnt have too much trouble knocking the seals out with a section of tubing. I missed Napa's early closing time (which is really lame) tonight and couldn't find the seals anywhere else so I will pick them up tomorrow. I know Napa should have these.
Meanwhile I pulled most of the steering linkage loose. What is that mechanism in the steering column that locks the steering when you pull turn off the ignition? I think might have broken it tonight messing with getting the linkage pulled loose. Wheel turns free with key out of ignition now... ? ???? :flame:
Would you replace the UCA bushings if they looked ok? Or just go ahead and do it while you pretty much have the front end tore down? I have heard they SUCK to get out!
Right now I have my Jeep sitting on stands, the front axles and hubs out while I am trying to get the new inner axle seals installed ( THEY SUCK) I also have new hubs to install, but after pulling the hub + axles assembly I don't know if I will bother now, they feel pretty solid. Same thoughts on the ball joints.
I am prepping for the RE 3.5" super flex, which includes LCA's.
I used very fine grit sandpaper to sand the paint off the outside of the seals on the second set i had to buy... with a little help (aka one guy lining up the seal and the other gently tapping on the bar) they will go in
!! 
