Thanks for the compliments. Yes I like the black and yellow ha ha. As for the radiator I have a 3 row for the 4.0 already but in my research I found it does not hold enough fluid and one guy said he tried it and at low speed high rpm it would over heat.
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88' XJ LT1 Conversion and more
- Thread starter ibeanob
- Start date
arty:eeI'm working on the wiring in the Jeep I have these following wires that I cannot figure out if they're needed or where they should go. If anyone has information on these please let me know. Thank you in advance!!!!! I have included the factory name of the wire, the color of the wire and where I think it goes. If there are question marks it means I have not found any information on it.
1. Electronic variable orifice actuator signal – Speedometer? - /White
2. Electronic variable orifice signal return - ????? - Brown
3. Switched B+ to fuel pump /sender – Fuel pump positive? - Gray
4. Park/neutral signal switched ground – park neutral switch? - Orange/Black
5. Switched ignition feed to torque converter clutch solenoid - ?????? - Purple
6. Park neutral position switch and cruise control ground – park neutral switch? - White/black
7. Fuel enable signal theft deterrent module to PCM – Not needed? - Dark Blue
8. Output field service enable EGR related – too OBD1 port? - White/black
9. MIL service engine soon control – Engine check light or OBD1 port? - Brown/white
10. Low oil level indicator – Idiot light? - Brown/white
11. Vehicle speed signal from PCM – Speedometer? - Dark Green/White
12. Serial data from PCM to DLC connector – OBD1 port? - Tan
13. Change oil indicator control – Idiot light? - Pnk
1. Electronic variable orifice actuator signal – Speedometer? - /White
2. Electronic variable orifice signal return - ????? - Brown
3. Switched B+ to fuel pump /sender – Fuel pump positive? - Gray
4. Park/neutral signal switched ground – park neutral switch? - Orange/Black
5. Switched ignition feed to torque converter clutch solenoid - ?????? - Purple
6. Park neutral position switch and cruise control ground – park neutral switch? - White/black
7. Fuel enable signal theft deterrent module to PCM – Not needed? - Dark Blue
8. Output field service enable EGR related – too OBD1 port? - White/black
9. MIL service engine soon control – Engine check light or OBD1 port? - Brown/white
10. Low oil level indicator – Idiot light? - Brown/white
11. Vehicle speed signal from PCM – Speedometer? - Dark Green/White
12. Serial data from PCM to DLC connector – OBD1 port? - Tan
13. Change oil indicator control – Idiot light? - Pnk
John D
NAXJA Member # 788
- Location
- Rockford, Mi
Have you been to lt1swap.com? He covers pretty much everything there and if you can't find it email him. He has always given me quick responses.
Well I can't seem to get my photo's working right now but I have accomplished a lot since my last writing. I have completed the roof rack and lighting system using Switch-Pros console which turned out pretty cool. The engine is completely mounted. I rebuilt a 1994 4l60e automatic transmission and put a slip yoke eliminator in a NP233C transfer case. I eliminated the electric motor on the transfer case and made my own linkage so that it is now manual shift. My new concern is the headers. The stock headers from the 95' Roadmaster the motor came out of will not fit. The problem is trying to find headers where they are bent towards the firewall. Still looking around for those. I have emailed Brendan at LT1swap.com about reprogramming the ECU and now I'm just waiting to hear back from him before I send it out. The front axle (79 Dana 44 out of a Bronco) is almost done and I'm looking for a rear Ford 8.8 with limited slip out of a late 90's F-150 or something similar with that axle. The reason is the axle needs to be 65" WMS to WMS like the front. If I can get the pictures to download, I will start posting pictures as well.
52" curved light bar from Amazon.com seller was Geminthenight and was only $131.00. Based on the reviews I sealed the unit myself using windshield silicone. The light works great and is 18000 lumens. Had to custom make the mounts but that was nothing compared to all the other custom work I am doing:rof:
John D
NAXJA Member # 788
- Location
- Rockford, Mi
How is the light pattern? Any pics of it at night?
Oh yeah forgot to mention I got the emblems on the side done. The LT1 emblems I ordered online they seem to be pretty easy to find. The Cherokee ones I got at the bone yard. I sanded down the bedliner so they would stick better. I will have to see in the long run if they stay on.
This is the lighting system from Switch-Pros. It is fully programmable, you can set the light to strobe, flash or just on, it's blue tooth accessible (you can turn the lights on from your cell phone) and it has a battery minder so it shuts down the light before your battery dies. I used the old over head plastic box that held the original keyless entry receiver to mount the switch panel. This was a limited edition Cherokee so I am not sure how many other models came with this box.
With all the stickers in place and mounted. I ran the wiring along the headliner and down the passenger side A pillar.
With all the stickers in place and mounted. I ran the wiring along the headliner and down the passenger side A pillar.
Finally sending off the ECU today to LT1swap.com for reprogramming. Got the hood on today and switched out all the lights to LED. For the blinkers all I had to do was change the blinker solenoid to a no-load solenoid and it works great with the LED blubs. Have not figured out the headlights yet. Trying to just find bulbs rather than spending $500 on the whole assemblies (which is ridiculous since LED cost very little to manufacture).
