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88' XJ LT1 Conversion and more

ibeanob

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fair oaks
I have never posted a thread before but I figured since I was documenting this build with photo's I might as well post it.

I have an 88' Cherokee (Limited Edition) which I purchase 10 years ago for $500 with a blown motor. The 87' Cherokee I had at the time was put through the Rubicon 8 times and the firewall finally split from upper control arm to upper control arm. Unfortunately it was so long ago I don't have the photo but it was spectacular. So I took all of my old chassis parts out of the 87' and put it in the 88' along with a new crate 4.0 motor. Well over the years I didn't go to the Rubicon much anymore, mostly due to the money it cost in repairs, and I spent more time going to the desert for 4-5 days at a time. The desert is much easier on vehicles and I enjoy the wide open spaces with new scenery almost every time I go. A couple years ago I inherited an LT1 out of a 95' Buick Roadmaster and began brainstorming how I was going to put this in my Cherokee. During my research I learned a few things but more importantly that I should reinforce the frame. Reinforcing the frame was also a thought since I had split the firewall in my last Cherokee and putting more horsepower and torque in the vehicle would obviously cause more twisting. With all that said, I wanted to build a desert vehicle adding the least amount of weight possible, still making it strong enough to withstand the desert climate and rough terrain yet increasing gas mileage and therefore distance I could travel. Yes this was a lot to accomplish and I decided to do most of the work myself in order to keep the cost down to a minimum. So I will start this documentation by saying goodbye to the old 4.0 and hello to a new project.

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I was able to pull out the motor, tranny and transfer case all at once. I was able to sell the motor but I still have the transmission for sale. I had already modified the transfer case with a slip yoke eliminator years ago and wanted to keep it for the conversion.

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Once the motor was out, I decided to rebuild my old Warn X8000i winch. I decided to paint the Jeep yellow with black accents so I thought having a matching winch would be unique. Besides, the winch had been though a few water crossing over the past 15 years and could use a good cleaning. I tore it down, cleaned it out, replaced the bearings in the motor (which I was able to get at O'Reilly auto parts by matching the numbers on the bearings) and repainted it. I used high temp engine paint due to the winch being out in the sun a lot and I figured using an enamel would be better than a standard paint.

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I took a photo so that I could remember how all this wiring was when I started.

Then I began tearing it down and cleaning it out.

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Once all cleaned out I began painting it to match my color scheme. I emailed Warn who said to use high temp bearing grease when reassembling the unit.

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This is it mostly put back together so that you get the idea. I painted the Warn symbol on it by printing out the Warn symbol and stenciling it on the winch. It came out alright but I'm not really worried about perfection, I was just having fun with it.

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Today I decided to start tackling the front Dana 44. I read online that white vinegar will take rust off of metal and wanted to test this on the rotors and hubs from the Dana 44 as they were I bad shape. So I went to the store and purchase two gallons of white vinegar and used a 5 gallon bucket I already had to soak the parts in. I read that they need to sit over night so I will see how they look in the morning and report back then.

RUST!!!!!

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White vinegar and bucket :yelclap:

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I noticed that two gallons of white vinegar were just a little shy of covering the part completely so I added a little water to fill the bucket up a little more. Put part in bucket and wait.....................

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Well I was impatient and decided to pull the rotor out of the vinegar to see how well it was working. After approximately two hours I took it out and noticed the rust was turning to a paste. I wiped off the paste but there was still some rust underneath. I used 120 grit sand paper with my drill sander and cleaned it up the rest of the way. It only took approximately 15 minutes to clean it up the rest of the way. Then I wiped it down with motor oil to keep it from rusting for now until I decide if painting them is the right thing to do.

There is a little bit of a yellow tinged to the metal which is just surface rust from using water to clean off the parts cleaner from inside. The rotor came out pretty good.

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Here is a better picture from the side

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Well I took the gas tank out today so that I could access the rear frame. I knew there was an area where the frame had cracked due to a rear end collision but I didn't know it was this bad. I will have to try and do some creative hammer work and welding to fix this problem before I weld in the frame reinforcements.

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The new frame reinforcements came in. They are 10 gauge steel and only weigh 26lbs:party:

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I started working on the frame stiffeners and started with the front passenger side. I used a pressure washer to clean most of the road grime off of the frame first. I then used 120 grit sand paper to remove any left over paint and contaminants.

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You're scaring me with you choice of jack stands...

Curt


I just got chills down my spine that made me shake like a vibrator settling concrete. :shiver:

A very nice project none the less. :yelclap: Try to do more to keep all your body members in tip top shape so you could enjoy the fruits or your labor.
 
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