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To block or not to block.

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SurfXJSnow said:
good lord....

I think you guys are forgetting that:

1. Blocks costs about 35 dollars for an XJ
2. Im only trying to run them for a year at most until I can afford new springs.
3. Im only looking to block it 1" to 1.5", Not 3" or 4"
4. My springs arent BAD, but they are ten years old. (98' XJ) and I want to get all i can out of them before i scrap them for the new lift in about a year.
5. I dont do any rock crawling, but I enjoy getting technical on trails and scenic rides.

All of this said, To gain an inch for a year, mainly only to provide clearance for my new tires that rub at times.... is it really that bad? is a 1.5" block really going to run my jeep in the ground?

I know everyone is set in their ways, but im talking amateur here... I know I am and I dont need my XJ to flex like your 6.5" Long arm kit.

Thanks for the replies though.

Sounds like you've already decided what you want to do. People have given their advice, take it or dont take it, thats up to you. I wouldnt run blocks with stock springs myself but I also wouldnt push my budget so tight that I couldnt afford to do an AAL or bastard pack either. If you cant afford to lift it, then dont lift it. If you cant afford to spend more than $100, you shouldnt even be off roading, hell a cut sidewall will cost you more than that. Its only a hobby for crist sake, save your money for food or rent or something important.
Sorry for the rant but it gripes me to read about someone with no money throwing away what they cant afford so they can run harder trails with a greater possiblity of breaking something that they cant afford to fix.
Am I the only one here that thinks if you cant afford anything more than a couple blocks that you shouldnt even be lifting it higher?
 
C85D4x4 said:
- Corrects shackle angle
- Improves Ride quality
- Improves Flex
- Adds lift

I don't see why more people don't go for this.


IMG_0205-1.jpg

where the hell did you get this?! Im interested. does it just bolt onto where the factory shackle goes in? Is this a fab or did you buy it?! let me know before i buy my blocks. IS THE LIFT ADJUSTABLE? Thanks
 
ECKSJAY said:
Sorry, I forgot that this doesn't apply to people who wheel in Flatsville. :D We run into situations with logs and crap where revolvers and shackles that are too long get hung up on them. It's not about 'oh my hitch would hit first', it's about solid objects on the ends of the bumper. :D:D:D

If your springs do not get hung up without these they would not get hung up with them, as these do not move the end of the spring any closer to the ground......unless you go with smaller tires.......
 
BRIANHO13 said:
If your springs do not get hung up without these they would not get hung up with them, as these do not move the end of the spring any closer to the ground......unless you go with smaller tires.......

Not to split hairs, and I agree with you about not getting hung up on them, but a longer shackle or dropped shackle is closer to the ground. A 4" longer shackle gives you 2" of lift, right? Wheres the other 2" go? It goes down towards the ground.
Those shackle drop brackets along with the longer shackle appear to provide at least 4" of lift. If thats the case, and you run the same size tire, you would lose 2" of clearance under the shackle.
 
Ray H said:
Not to split hairs, and I agree with you about not getting hung up on them, but a longer shackle or dropped shackle is closer to the ground. A 4" longer shackle gives you 2" of lift, right? Wheres the other 2" go? It goes down towards the ground.
Those shackle drop brackets along with the longer shackle appear to provide at least 4" of lift. If thats the case, and you run the same size tire, you would lose 2" of clearance under the shackle.

Lift is exactly that lift, the jeep goes up in the air, the eye of the spring can get no closer to the ground unless you go with a smaller tire.

Doing the math and a stock shackle @ 45 degrees your lift from this kit is actually right at 1". Now everyone running a stock shackle and running these actually reports only 3/4" of lift.

Now if you are already running a longer shackle and you go to 45 degrees with this kit you actually gain a litttle less than 1" of lift.

Keep in mind if you use this kit and keep the vertical shackle angle your lift would be 1.5" because the mounting hole is lowered exactly 3".
 
BRIANHO13 said:
If your springs do not get hung up without these they would not get hung up with them, as these do not move the end of the spring any closer to the ground......unless you go with smaller tires.......

Don't be daft...the spring eye goes further from the body and exposes it more. I didn't say a single thing about it getting closer to the ground. ;) The only way to get around this is to use a shorter shackle, which would defeat the purpose... And aftermarket springs are *supposed to be* longer eye-to-eye to make up for the curve. End users should be checking this prior to putting them on. I still don't see the appeal of them for a typical application where an XJ spring is going on. I thought I liked it at first until I looked at it a little more subjectively. If people feel the need for them, good on you and your marketing.
 
ECKSJAY said:
And aftermarket springs are *supposed to be* longer eye-to-eye to make up for the curve.

You would think so, but has not been my experience.
 
BRIANHO13 said:
You would think so, but has not been my experience.

I've seen them get a little shorter, but that's typically fixed with a 1-1.5" shackle. Anything more is flirting with the 'hang up' problem I mentioned.
 
Every modification is application specific.

Wooden blocks will work if you never drive...

I've built and run a 1" "zero-rate" add-a-leaf for a while with RE 3.5" springs. I pushed it as hard as I could with open diffs and 32" tires on rocks. I never had a problem. Having grown out of the above shoes and open differentials I won't run blocks again without an anti-wrap bar.

It doesn't sound like the OP will have a problem with mild to moderate wheeling and a short block. I agree that a bastard pack makes more sense with 10yo soft oem packs. If he/she chooses to go with a block I suggest using a block that bolts into the pack as the bottom leaf.
 
I run have run an 1.5" lift block for a couple of years and am extremely happy with it. I machined my own. They are 5" long and taper down at the ends to avoid the stress raiser caused by bending the springs over a sharp edge when they go into reverse arch at "full stuff". I use a 3/8" dia Grade 8 bolt as a center pin. I re-torque the U-bolts every few trips and replace them every season.

I wheel aggressively, High Blues and Low Blacks at Crozet, Blacks and some Reds at Rausch Creek. I dont mind binding up the rear and have no problems with waterfalls and heavy rear axle loading (torque) wrapping the springs. I dont run an anti-wrap bar. My rig has 5" of lift, is well armored underneath and runs on 31's with 3.54 gears. Rear springs are a bastard pack with liners, nearly flat at ride height with an 1.5" lift from the shackle.

If I ran 35's and 5.13 gears I might have wrap problems, who knows?

I know from my experience that there is nothing wrong with lift blocks when used intelligently as part of a complimentary package. It is possible to have problems with lift blocks if you are not careful. They should not be the PRIMARY component in any lift. This blind bashing of lift blocks if foolish. They are a tool that when used wisely can provide a better suspension by allowing the use of softer spring pack with less arch.

I am very happy using lift blocks.
Thats my experience and I am sticking to it.

John
 
You wanna hear about axle wrap? I used to run 3.5" blocks. They worked really nicely with my 17 year old OEM leafs:doh: , so I just went the righteous path and purchased 3.5" lift leafs. You will be fine on just 1" of blocks.. Especially if it's just temporary. Blocks are a cheap way to give a little boost and clear those tires.

Another thing I would suggest. Why not get 1" lift shackles? or do you already have lift shackles. Maybe I missed this part. My bad if I did.
 
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I used to run 1" blocks 5.13's and and 37" boggers with a total 141:1. I ate rear ujoints and pinions because of axle wrap until I added a traction bar.
 
ECKSJAY said:
Don't be daft...the spring eye goes further from the body and exposes it more. I didn't say a single thing about it getting closer to the ground. ;)

I'M saying they get closer to the ground. If you dont change anything else (ie tires, springs, ect) and you install 4" longer shackles, you will gain about 2" of lift and you will lose about 2" of ground clearance under the shackles. The shackle does in fact get closer to the ground.
Like I said, I wouldnt see that as an issue, but none the less, it is a fact.
 
Kinda off topic yet related, I know everyone hates blocks, and I too would rather just build some packs. Buuuut why did my '97 dodge ram come off the factory line with 2" blocks...?
 
ECKSJAY said:
The concept of flat springs is lost on you, so I won't even begin to explain it. :D You've obviously got it all figured out and nobody will change your mind. I never said anything about saving money, I was replying to Captain Bullshit's 'never' comment. :nono:

Why is everyone so uptight? Gas prices? :twak:

Captain Bullshit callin Captain Asshat.......my comment is just that a comment/opinion something I think others agree upon.....maybe just maybe I was a little extreme with the "never" thing and it got your panties in a wad...tough crap Captain Asshat....and finally have a very crappy day and while your at it :looser: Location: Rent Free ( Cardboard Box)
 
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DanMan2k06 said:
Kinda off topic yet related, I know everyone hates blocks, and I too would rather just build some packs. Buuuut why did my '97 dodge ram come off the factory line with 2" blocks...?

Because it WAS cheaper than leafs!!
 
SurfXJSnow said:
well it seems that the only people saying good things about the blocks are the people that have actually used them?

How many of you that say they are terrible have actually run them on your XJ?????

I could be setting myself up for disaster, or they could work just fine... but im willing to find out for a measely 35 dollars. Ill let you all know after wednesday when I have the new coils and blocks in.

OH... if anyone lives in colorado and is SOOOO against me putting in blocks, then Ill do AAL's if I can find a garage to use and some air tools... There is a case of beer in it for you... then I will totally forget about blocking the rear.

For the front, new 3" coils by pro comp and im tossing the spacer.

I am not againt you putting in blocks, your heep your choice! I would NEVER again use blocks in anything ( my opinion ) something I was giving you that was asked for by posting here correct.....There is always someone around that is going to diagree with your opinion, a given! Why that diagreement has to be so verbally abusive is beyond me!! Once again good luck with both of your projects!:cheers:
 
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ECKSJAY said:
You're so angry you're contradicting yourself. :roflmao: "RARR, A GUY ON THE INTERNET DOESN'T AGREE WITH ME SO I'M GOING TO OVERREACT!!" :D

Oh, and I don't think Richard was talking to fabbing gods when he wrote that. You so funny. :laugh3:

Speaking of over reacting.......that is what you have done with the whole block thing....the pot calling the kettle black.....!!! You are a moron and I wonder if anyone even likes you? Not that you would care but that is the moron in ya!! Drop by my neck of the woods and talk to me like that in person! Some peoples children!!
 
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