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THE BEST ELECTRIC FAN SET UP, HANDS DOWN.

Muad'Dib said:
It wasnt aimed at you, it was more general feedback. I try not to aim anything at anyone...

Also, dont forget the XJ is also designed to run @ 210... i wouldnt be shocked if someone was running a little hotter then this (220-230) i would only be concearned if it started to get right about or maybe a little more then the line on the gauge before where the red starts.


agreed.
 
jrowell said:
33's with 4.88's.
New Trans Cooler

8>)

pics would be nice, also too deep of gears with only 33's you are running too many RPM's on the highway, I bet thats where its getting hot.. the coolant is moving too quickly through the system.
 
rockwerks said:
pics would be nice, also too deep of gears with only 33's you are running too many RPM's on the highway, I bet thats where its getting hot.. the coolant is moving too quickly through the system.
Clearly, it can only be him to blame... give it up...

aw4 in 4th .70 overdrive with 4.88 final gearing on 33" @ 60mph = 2087RPM This is too deep? 65 = 2261RPM
 
rockwerks said:
pics would be nice, also too deep of gears with only 33's you are running too many RPM's on the highway, I bet thats where its getting hot.. the coolant is moving too quickly through the system.

Pics of what?

Runs down the highway just fine (it's NOT a DD) There are a thousand XJ's with 33's and 4.88's that have no issues. And I certainly do not run 80... *usually* 8>)

My main issue comes when I try to use the AC on the trail. I not complaining, or trying to hijack this dudes thread, I'm just saying don't bash someone for not trying to fix their junk. You may not be aware of what they have already tried. Sometimes the problem is elusive and you have to come up with some solution so you can actually hit the trails. What ever it takes to go wheeling, I say more power to you.
 
jrowell said:
I don't know if this was directly aimed at me... but I'll respond. In the last 3 years in my 87 I have replaced: Radiator (twice. Switched to open) Water Pump (twice), Hoses (with spring) Clutch Fan (Twice) Newer Electric Fan, Transmission lines, ENGINE/head, TRANSMISSION/ t-converter, AND Tcase. Added Hood Vents. Put in External Temp Guage To confirm temps. Changed AC compressor.

I *think* that would qualify for everything 8>)

Through all of this, temps still run 200-to 210 with the AC off. If I turn it on while on the trail or a hill... 220+ easily.

I'm not "complaining". It is, what it is. I just want to use my AC when it's hot out on the trail and I have my two young girls in the heep with me! If that means adding a fan or two (or five) so be-it. But don't ASSume it's a "band-aid" or I'm "not fixing my junk!"

Don't mean to sound simplistic, but I have Jeeps come to me with high running temps and the first thing I did was check the accuracy of the gauge with a digital read out one. In a couple of occasions I found it was the gauge reading to high and they had been panicking all this time for nothing!
 
barillms said:
All three are seperate, on a seperate relay, on a seperate manual switch.
So I can run 1, 2, or all 3. I have it shrouded and sealed up really well, it moves the air where it's supposed to go.

This the first time in my life I have even seen the front of the radiator deliberately blocked like this! Front mounted fans already loose up to 20% efficiency partly due to the motor blocking airflow and you have just increased that further still! :doh:
You have confused your install with what you must do with a rear mounted fan setup where this must be done. Still not hard against it like that put an inch away so the fan can still draw through that area of the radiator inceasing the airflow without leaving hot spots.
Also exactly what Taurus fan did you use? Was it the pre 95 2 speed and from a V6? I have only had to use high speed twice so far and that was in 100*F heat while towing my offroad trailer up a very long steel climb in low range. You have done the install wrong and have another problem if that install did not work for you or even have the right fan. Also the part on the fan sticking out below the radiator work fantastically drawing air through my auto cooler without any of that heat going through the radiator.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAutoCooler.htm
So don't be so quick to condemn fans that are deeper than the radiator. After all, the mechanical one is deeper too and why the lower part is blocked off below the radiator so that it draws even more air through the radiator. Did you properly block the lower part of your Taurus fan off so it actually used the whole fan to draw air through the radiator? Leaving it open would decrease the amount of air being drawn the the radiator. Like to see pictures of your install so see how exactly why it didn't work for you.
Also I would never trust cheap eBay fans to last very long either especially after a few mud holes. I see so many reporting failures from cheap after market fans. They are cheap for a reason.
 
I have run 200~220 all day pulling 4800 LB with AC in 110 DEG. heat. With just a 3 core rad. No problem. If your not losing coolant or having some type of over heating problem I say. Don't fix what ant broken.
 
jrowell said:
I don't know if this was directly aimed at me... but I'll respond. In the last 3 years in my 87 I have replaced: Radiator (twice. Switched to open) Water Pump (twice), Hoses (with spring) Clutch Fan (Twice) Newer Electric Fan, Transmission lines, ENGINE/head, TRANSMISSION/ t-converter, AND Tcase. Added Hood Vents. Put in External Temp Guage To confirm temps. Changed AC compressor.

I *think* that would qualify for everything 8>)

Nope still have the heater core that was not listed.....
 
jrowell said:
Pics of what?

Runs down the highway just fine (it's NOT a DD) There are a thousand XJ's with 33's and 4.88's that have no issues. And I certainly do not run 80... *usually* 8>)

My main issue comes when I try to use the AC on the trail. I not complaining, or trying to hijack this dudes thread, I'm just saying don't bash someone for not trying to fix their junk. You may not be aware of what they have already tried. Sometimes the problem is elusive and you have to come up with some solution so you can actually hit the trails. What ever it takes to go wheeling, I say more power to you.

still just a bandaid, Ive never had one that cant be corrected and Ive worked on many that guys said they cant find the problem


I did a writeup on this many years ago tried all kinds of crap even the magical 3 fan setup. and this was like 7 years ago. and after many months of testing spending $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ it all boiled down to fix it right in the first place

IF you are running a 180 degree stat and 3 pass radiator you are creating more trouble than solving problems. maybe its time to take it to a professional if you cant figure it out
 
As of last spring Ive ran without a mechanical fan and only the stock electrical (im poor :dunno: ). I don't overheat, it'll only hit 220F/activate aux fan if im in traffic and its 90F. Never a problem now in the winter/spring. It's all about the airflow through the radiator and you're blocking it with fans/that plastic. Plus with all of those fans running you're putting a large load on your alternator which eventually makes its way back to the engine lowering your fuel economy.
 
BBeach said:
As of last spring Ive ran without a mechanical fan and only the stock electrical (im poor :dunno: ). I don't overheat, it'll only hit 220F/activate aux fan if im in traffic and its 90F. Never a problem now in the winter/spring. It's all about the airflow through the radiator and you're blocking it with fans/that plastic. Plus with all of those fans running you're putting a large load on your alternator which eventually makes its way back to the engine lowering your fuel economy.

That is one thing that many forget to check and or replace is the stock mechanical fan when there is an issue with the fan clutch. Last time I worked on one for a guy he had replaced everything except the fan, he was still overheating, replaced that and magically it didnt over heat any more
 
Yep - with a worn fan clutch, typically highway driving will run at normal temps, but slow crawling (especially with the A/C running) will tend to overheat or depend heavily on the electric fan.

The most annoying thing on mine though was the pressure cap. A simple $5 part was the result of two weeks of overheating and troubleshooting.
 
vetteboy said:
Yep - with a worn fan clutch, typically highway driving will run at normal temps, but slow crawling (especially with the A/C running) will tend to overheat or depend heavily on the electric fan.

The most annoying thing on mine though was the pressure cap. A simple $5 part was the result of two weeks of overheating and troubleshooting.

IVe seen the necks on the rad's bent and will cause the caps to not seat properly,

Ive noticed that on highway speeds the mechanical fan can cause problems also. too loose it does not spin fast enough and froze up it spins too quickly and looses efficiency
 
barillms said:
I'm not an idiot, I control the fans. I'm very reliable, trust me ;)
It's kinda a priority... ya know.

I feel sorry for you if you couldn't trust yourself to remember to flip a switch
when you start your engine. Thats pretty sad.

the difference is now you are 100% reliant on electrical system to keep our rig drivable. and with the RAM air blocked off you HAVE to run the fans or kill your engine. Unlike mine that works of thermostats to run the aux fans, one for the tranny cooler and one for the aux engine fan. mine sits right at 200* and never budges, with the stock setup.
 
Gojeep said:
Don't mean to sound simplistic, but I have Jeeps come to me with high running temps and the first thing I did was check the accuracy of the gauge with a digital read out one. In a couple of occasions I found it was the gauge reading to high and they had been panicking all this time for nothing!

I got a IR Thermometer from Harbor Freight... Temps confirmed
 
rockwerks said:
still just a bandaid, Ive never had one that cant be corrected and Ive worked on many that guys said they cant find the problem

No doubt it's a BandAid... But if it lets you get out and wheel, so what!

rockwerks said:
IF you are running a 180 degree stat and 3 pass radiator you are creating more trouble than solving problems. maybe its time to take it to a professional if you cant figure it out

195 Tstat And 2 row Modine. I am by no means a pro, but I know my junk pretty good. I have put all new equipment on it. It is what it is. I accept it. If it starts passing 230 I'll turn the AC off and Run a high idle to cool it down. That just a characteristic of my junk.

You sound like a pro... come figure it out for me! I'll by you a beer or two!
I might even let you winch my out of a tough spot!

See you on the trails!
 
barillms said:
I would have to drive 500mph to get as much air through the radiator as these fans produce.
You guys are all silly.


You are an inexperienced guy with some mechanical ability. good luck, maybe you should read up on how and why the cooling systems are designed and maybe you might understand the dangerous nature of this misguided project
 
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