SYE Recomendations

[SFW516]

I apologize if this has been asked a thousand times already but I just want a quick answer from the guys who've used these kits. Is one better than the other, both the same?

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...e=IROR&Product_Code=IR-XHNT&Category_Code=XDT

http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/featured/slip-yoke-eliminator-hd-yoke-style-by-dirtbound-offroad/

I have 90 Cherokee automatic 4.0L with the NP231 T-case. I am getting vibes at freeway speeds and some noise, so I want to take care of this. I am planning on using a front driveshaft with one of these kits.

So any comments/suggestions would be awesome. Thanks for your time.

 

[Ewenm]

i bought the dirt bound kit, haven't fitted it yet, im trying to get the strength together to get under the jeep and CUT the shaft, parts all look good.

im surprised there is no gasket between the seal adaptor and the transfer case, just silicone.

i,m planning on doing the job at the end of the year when i have some time off work.

its not a daily driver so at least i can take my time.

 

[whitexj98]

IMO get a HD sye kit....

http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-d...ts/advance-adapters-slip-yoke-eliminator.html

 

[X E Ryder]

I installed the Advanced Adaptors SYE kit as it was recommended. I did the install in my garage and the Xfer case in the XJ. I also changed a few internal parts I preordered while it was apart. I'm pleased with it and I have no leaks or problems. (in all fairness to reporting, UPS dropped my package a few too many times and dinged the new output shaft seal on the SYE rear housing so I swapped the rear seal)

Some reasons I liked this route: Rough Country sells this kit cheaper and AA worked with Tom Woods to build a drop in, very nice rear shaft with his "gold seal" u-joints. The main shaft is the newer style heavier. For your '90 you will need to pull the roller bearings out of your front output gear - it is an extra step for us but a stronger final result.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/new-process-231j-fixed-yoke-kit/

I suggest searching for a FSM on the Xfer case and D/L printing and reading it. Get some brake-clean, lots of rags and black RTV - you'll want a surgically clean surface to mount the case halves back up for a leak free install.

 

[Ewenm]

yep thats all good, but that kit does not suit the transfer case with full time 4 wheel drive capabilities, to my understanding a h&t is the only option we have

 

[whitexj98]

yep thats all good, but that kit does not suit the transfer case with full time 4 wheel drive capabilities, to my understanding a h&t is the only option we have

The op of this thread stated he has a 231........

 

[Ewenm]

ooopppsss, sorry i,m talking about my situation, gotta start paying attention.

in australia we didnt get the 231, only the version (232??) that had the all wheel drive capabilities

 

[whitexj98]

NP242 is full time capable.

 

[anthrax323]

I spent a few extra dollars on the Tom Woods SD SYE. Only caveat is that it has a flange instead of a yoke on the rear output, which may limit your ability to use a front shaft from the junkyard.

 

[bwinter1946]

yep thats all good, but that kit does not suit the transfer case with full time 4 wheel drive capabilities, to my understanding a h&t is the only option we have

Not true.

This thread is about a SYE for a 231 transfer case.

If you have a 242 full time case Tom Woods makes a kit for it or you can do a H&T. I used the Tom Woods kit for my 242 and I am very pleased with his kit.

 

[X E Ryder]

I spent a few extra dollars on the Tom Woods SD SYE. Only caveat is that it has a flange instead of a yoke on the rear output, which may limit your ability to use a front shaft from the junkyard.

I have the AA and I still can't use a front DS for the rear drive.

Also, anything from Tom Woods is awesome - I cannot say enough good about him - if you have any questions about this you might even give him a call. a REALLY knowledgeable, kind long time player in the business.

Sheesh he was building me drag race car shafts 20 years ago!

 

[2stix]

is this a lifted jeep? are you sure you need an SYE? you may just have a worn out U-joint, bent drive shaft, or a worn bushing/bearing in the tailshaft, or a loose pinion bearing. now replacing the driveshaft with a new one and installing an SYE will take care of many of these, but not all. i am not saying you do not need or will not benefit from the SYE, but make sure you know why you have the vibes first.

 

[camojeep88]

I heard you are able to use the front drive shaft on the AA sye which is why I bought mine but havnt installed it to find out yet

 

[DanMan2k06]

^ I have the Rugged Ridge (Omix) kit and runa front shaft. Very straightforward. Very easy.

The best part is, as I've found, if you ever have to open up your case again once the SYE is installed, it's breeze. One bolt for the yoke, two c-clips for the speed sensor sleeve, 5 bolts for the tail cone, and another 8 or so around the t-case half. Takes like 20 minutes.

Also

For your '90 you will need to pull the roller bearings out of your front output gear - it is an extra step for us but a stronger final result.

DO NOT FORGET TO DO THIS

There's whole video on youtube that walks you step by step through the installation. Their install is off the vehicle, but follow the same steps for in-vehicle installation. It's not hard.

 

[clean4drxj]

http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=153
This what I have and it's the same as Avanced Adaptors, only less $

 

[Oatmeal]

I made a home brew SYE with a yoke that I sourced from my driveshaft guy but, had a vibration I could just not get rid of that got worse over time (especially after the bolt holding the yoke worked loose...use Loctie red!).

So, I bought a Rugged Ridge shaft style SYE from these guys: http://www.xtremeterrain.com/....$159 shipped!

After tearing the t/c apart I found the problem to be a loose fitting output shaft bearing....the bearing bore in the rear casting itself was worn!

My drivetrain is now dead smooth however, there was nothing with the way I had it before but, it really is a major upgrade in strength.

If you have a vibration you just can't seem to track down, check your output shaft for play....not so much end play but, axial (up and down) play...it drove me nuts!

Hans

 

[kastein]

A few things while installing an SYE -
1. you want to get circlip pliers! They cost $15 and are basically required. Get ones that open the jaws outward when you squeeze the handles, and have flat knurled paddle tips not the pin style tips.
2. get a brass wire wheel for your Dremel. Why? the machined surface of the transfer case castings is fairly rough, quite annoying to scrape without dropping gunk into the case, and brass is barely harder than aluminum, so you can simply pack clean shop towels or paper towels around the tcase internals then use a dremel with a brass wire wheel spinning away from the center of the case to zip all the old RTV off. Then wipe it down with a horsehair brush ("acid brush" or "flux brush" in the HD plumbing aisle, under $1) and some brakleen and remove the shop towels.
3. The oil pump goes outside the case, not inside it. Don't ask how I found this out. Getting the oil pickup into the pump again is the most annoying part, my usual trick involves a pair of flat blade screwdrivers, one used to keep the pickup tube near the pump and the other used to lever it into the pump body by pushing on the flare/ridge. Make sure the o-ring is still in the pump before starting to put the pickup tube in, and make sure the pickup tube seats fully.
4. Make sure you clock your VSS sender / speedo pickup assembly correctly for the number of teeth your speedo gear has, else you will strip the teeth off the speedo gear ($50 mistake) or the plastic worm gear on the output shaft ($$$$$$$$ mistake) and have to tear it down partially again to fix it.
5. Remove the fill plug before the drain plug on the transfer case, that way you know you can fill it back up again. The 10mm allen key fill plugs like to corrode in place and corrode badly enough that they round out, dig all the mud and rust out of the hex socket with a pick or screwdriver before trying to unscrew it.

 

[X E Ryder]

A few things while installing an SYE -
1. you want to get circlip pliers! They cost $15 and are basically required. Get ones that open the jaws outward when you squeeze the handles, and have flat knurled paddle tips not the pin style tips.

3. The oil pump goes outside the case, not inside it. Don't ask how I found this out. Getting the oil pickup into the pump again is the most annoying part, my usual trick involves a pair of flat blade screwdrivers, one used to keep the pickup tube near the pump and the other used to lever it into the pump body by pushing on the flare/ridge. Make sure the o-ring is still in the pump before starting to put the pickup tube in, and make sure the pickup tube seats fully.

I hope I made that big enough to insure you would not omit its importance.

I sort of balance the oil pump in the rear case half with the pickup tube already in when I do this part - assembling the two together. Yea it's sort of a PITA but maybe no more than this way - I think you have to go with which suits your style and comfort level. I was so worried about losing the o-ring or pushing it sideways instead of seating that I went with my method - to each their own!

Only other thing I might mention is to get a new chain - heck the darn thing is going to be in your hand, there is no better time to swap it unless you are sure yours is not stretched. If you find yours is in good shape, you can install it next time around. Now it's my turn to say don't ask how I know this heheh.

 

[kastein]

I tried to just balance the pump like that, but the damn oil pickup fell out of its slot as a result. This could work if you use a dab or two of grease to glue the pickup in place, just make sure you don't obstruct the pickup screen because the pump needs to prime itself.

 

[rockclimber]

I'm running the dirtbound SYE. happy with it so far.