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Rear Shackle

Answers to questions I asked Andy at Iron Man. Thought I follow through in case someone uses this thread in the future.

"My long travel SRB's and Shackles can net as little as 1" of lift and up from there depending on your hole location and shackle length. I wish I could give you exact numbers but that is impossible because no two leaf springs are the same.... This system is trial and error. you try to shoot for a 45-55 degree angle but you can set it up for what works best for you.
I have guys that claim they were able to get 4.5" of lift from these. I think this will definitely be a good match for you."


I agree: the 1" minimum lift gives me hella range for height/angle adjustment. Maybe I'll get some flex in the rear now.
 
Iron Man has two different shackles - one straight, the other angled. Preference? What's the theory behind these two? Waiting on answer to these questions from Andy but thought you guys might know.

Thanks
 
I love shackle relocation. Many benefits to it. Just remember, if you can get 4.5" of lift out of the brackets and shackles, that puts your shackles and end of the leaf springs 9" lower than stock. Not so much an issue going forward, you will just drag them a lot. but if you back into something with them it could mean a bent or broken leaf spring.

I prefer the higher clearance designs (and no-lift brackets) and no more than a 1.5" lift shackle.
 
I love shackle relocation. Many benefits to it. Just remember, if you can get 4.5" of lift out of the brackets and shackles, that puts your shackles and end of the leaf springs 9" lower than stock. Not so much an issue going forward, you will just drag them a lot. but if you back into something with them it could mean a bent or broken leaf spring.

I prefer the higher clearance designs (and no-lift brackets) and no more than a 1.5" lift shackle.

Thanks Sam. I'm looking for no more that 1.75" rear lift to match the net lift I can get with ACOS up front after removing 2" spacers. Still looking for the perfect solution. Certainly don't need 4+ inches on either end.
 
Yup, I'm going to run just relo brackets and a decent shackle and might not have to touch the front with big buck ACOS. That will depend on ride height and whether it shows any 'rake'. I'm thinking the front 33s will clear just fine with the fender trimming I've already done. It will be cool to have some droop available in the rear and a bit more clearance. I tried to droop it the other day and was surprised how little there was. Of course that's when I started the search for this thread and voila, here we are. When that's taken care of I'll probably decide I need longer shocks ($$$). J-E-E-P. All for fun though, I like the way this project is turning out so thanks to all. And I learn something on a daily basis.
 
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Gordo,

Why the 5" on center specifically? How much lift will that give me?
What is bolt-bolt for the stock shackles (Sorry to be lazy but I'm 'down & out' & can't go to the shop to measure)?
I see RE has what they call a 5" on center shackle on Quadratec but they don't say how much lift they'll provide either.

Thank you.

The iron man shackles are not for you. They will give you 2" at least on there own. Do shackle relocators and then get a good 5"(hole to hole) shackle.
 
I generally look at any amount of change in height, at the shackle end of the spring, you get half of in lift height. There is probably a more percise way of doing it but that's what I go by.

So the relocators drop the hanger location by about 2". Giving you about 1" of lift.

Stock shackle is about 4". So if you go to a 5" shackle tht will give you about .5" of lift. For a total combined lift of about 1.5". Adjust shackle angle accordingly to get a little more or less. Without straying to far from the most desirable 45*.

Hope that all made sense.
 
Perfect! Exactly what I'm after.

Thanks, Gordo.
 
Ok Gents, gonna liven it up a bit.

After all the input I got here about relo and shackles I thought I'd give DPG (Dirk?) a call about what I'm about to do (since he's who I bought the lift from - DPG/OME SU 3.5") and to ask not whether I should do it, but what might be the best way to raise the front 1.5" to match what will happen in the rear with relo & shackles - ACOS or new front coils (cheaper actually)?

So when I explained the relo/shackle plan, the first thing out of his mouth was, "Oh, I wouldn't do that!". He explained that the rear leafs will be under more pressure constantly and that they'll wear out sooner. "It's Ok if you don't mind replacing rear leafs more often". Option, he says, would be a new spring pack that would be a more correct length for the relo/shackle mod. (I have no intention of getting new leaf packs since these are brand new.)

As for getting the front to match the back with my JKS shortarms, if I were to go with a taller coil, he suggested a control arm drop bracket to keep the control arm angle within reason, and said where I am at 3.5" is about the max angle he likes w/o drop brackets.

I explained that 'lift' was not the goal with relo but that flex was. He said that flex and droop in the front should be of greater concern than out back and that lockers would be a better investment for traction (which I have) instead of trying to flex the rear more for traction.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to contradict anyone or play one against another, I just figure more info is better than less. I keep doing, or contemplating things as if I want a rock crawler and that's just not the case.

Have fun with this one.
 
The only reason relo adds flex is because you can then put the shackle at the propper angle giving it a more full range of motion. It will in not add more stress to the leaf pack unless you are reverse arking them under compression. The main purpose in my mind for having relocators is ride. Better flex and lift are byproducts.
 
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