Still Overheating. EVERYTHING changed.

[scottmcneal]

You don't need a zj clutch if your radiator and cooling system are working properly. I took it off and threw it in the parts pile when I put the HD radiator in and put a stock one back on.

Truth.

 

[Crawler]

Dude... the ZJ fan clutch is killing my MPG (from 12.5 to 11). Its noisy as hell and performance has taken a hit too. There's got to be something I can do with an e-fan set up.... if not Dirtbound's set up, maybe something different?

I like the idea of decreasing the parasitic drag by ditching the clutch fan and being able to keep the fans running for a little while after I shut the engine off on a hot day to help with vapor lock.

Any suggestions?

Sounds like you need to re-gear, too.

These guys are right about you not needing the ZJ fan clutch.
I just suggested it much like suggesting an insurance policy.

Let us know how that e-fan kit works out for ya'... :helpme:

 

[bigalpha]

Maybe you have some crud build up in the internal passageways of the cooling system.

 

[kc_eiland]

Did you install the new radiator yet?

How old is your electric fan? And not all "stock" electric fans are created equal - the Crown units and the ones from the chain auto parts stores do not move as much air as the factory fans. The factory fans are worth the extra $$.

Yes, the mileage and performance hits are an affect of that fan clutch. It takes horsepower to move that fan.

I haven't bought another radiator yet since returning the damaged one back to Morris 4X4. My electric fan is stock and works pretty good. I really don't like the factory settings of when it kicks on though, but that's not the fan's fault. Going all e-fan would be nice too because I can set the temp at which the fans come on. You cant do that with the stock e-fan unless I want to install a switch to power it, and I don't.

But it seems that general consensus is that going all e-fan is foul.... so I'll listen to the people and return them.

 

[kc_eiland]

You don't need a zj clutch if your radiator and cooling system are working properly. I took it off and threw it in the parts pile when I put the HD radiator in and put a stock one back on.

Truth.

Well that is excellent news. I still have my original XJ fan clutch, so maybe I'll swap it back in with the new radiator.

 

[kc_eiland]

Sounds like you need to re-gear, too.

These guys are right about you not needing the ZJ fan clutch.
I just suggested it much like suggesting an insurance policy.

Let us know how that e-fan kit works out for ya'... :helpme:

I do need to regear (33s with 3.55s). I was planning to run 4.56 with 35s once my current 33s wear out, but all that depends if I can ditch this overheating problem or not.

And FINE!!! I'll return the damn e-fans!! That's about $550 back in my Jeep fund anyway. :clap:

 

[kc_eiland]

Maybe you have some crud build up in the internal passageways of the cooling system.

I haven't ruled that out yet.... I ran coolant cleaner thru the system and nothing crazy looking came out. I've always used distilled water but whos to say what the PO has done. I guess a new radiator and next summer temps will tell all.

 

[techno1154]

Coming from a person who is running dual after market electric fans since the middle of 2004 in South Florida with absolutely no problems my thoughts are,...a well maintained cooling system does the job very well in keeping the 4.0 cool. My gripe about the electric fans are... 1) the engine room temperature is now higher and 2) the AW4 temperature is higher (or so I think) which made the addition of an after market oil cooler mandatory.

No, the electric fans do not run all the time. They run only when the temperature reaches a pre set level or the PCM turn them on (AC or defroster on). In my opinion, it is counter productive to go e fan to have them run all the time. Just stay with the OEM mechanical fan for that matter.

A good set of e fans does the job well and I have no regrets so far. It does appear though that the simple drop in fans are not up to the job.

 

[bigalpha]

I've seen suggestions before to run a vinegar/water blend for a little while to help clear out crud. Don't know about the efficacy of that, though.

 

[kc_eiland]

UPDATE: Trying to return my e-fans to Dirtbound for a couple of reasons....

1) I'm pretty sure a radiator is going to fix my problem.
2) I never received a full kit from them. I'm STILL missing hardware that I've asked them for and I bought these fans 2 months ago!!!

Dirtbound said that I can return the fans but I have to pay the return shipping, AND they're also going to charge me a 20% restocking fee. I'm pretty pissed about this as the kit was never complete!!! Part of wanting to return these is because I've NEVER had the opportunity to install it with missing pieces.

I'm not impressed with Dirtbound's customer service or their BS policy.

Is this the wrong place to post this? Thoughts?

 

[bigalpha]

This is the vendor feedback forum: http://www.naxja.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=65

 

[Ecomike]

I've seen suggestions before to run a vinegar/water blend for a little while to help clear out crud. Don't know about the efficacy of that, though.

It can have mixed results, that change some day to day. If it dissolves scale slowly over time it can be great idea. But if there is a thin spot ready to leak, it will leak sooner, and if scale comes loose in chunks it can clog the tubes in the radiator and heater core, I would do it, but I would use a cheap, or old radiator, warm the engine up, turn it off, and let the vinegar work for several hours, the turn it on for 5 minutes to circulate and repeat. Once the vinegar looks used, drain and repeat. 10% vinegar and 90% water would be safer on the metals.