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Still Overheating. EVERYTHING changed.

When I took it to the mechanic, he had a laser heat gun and the thermostat housing read about 10° hotter than the temp gauge. I also changed the coolant temp sensor when I replaced the radiator and it held the same readings as the original temp sensor. I'll have the mechanic read real time temp when I take it to him.

As for the radiator being junk, its possible. Im not ruling anything out. And I have no clue about jumping the electric fan, but I'm down to try it.
 
I don't know what the pdc of a late model looks like. On a 96- you pull the fan relay and use a 10 ga wire to jump the north and south terminals to force the fan on.

If the temp stabilizes when you do that, I'd guess you have no enough cooling capacity. Increasing the airflow with vehicle speed or with the aux fan on would suggest that you need more radiator. Especially if you don't increase rpm to spin the water pump faster.
 
Quick update: I've been on vacation for the last 10 days, so I haven't been working on/driving my Jeep until yesterday. The plan was to remove the thermostat and flush the coolant after running the cleaner for a little while.

When I got home from my 1st day back to work yesterday, I noticed coolant pissing out of the front of the Jeep again. This time it was coming out of the reservoir tube. Apparently, my fan shroud broke at one of the upper mounting tabs and the hose worked itself in between the shroud and the radiator and got chewed up by the fan.

The fan shroud wasn't damaged when I first started having problems, but I'm thinking it may have gotten damaged when I pressure washed the radiator.

So today, I'll be flushing the system, removing the thermostat, and installing the electric fans until the new fan shroud comes in. I'll give updates on the e-fan's performance. Unfortunately, I'm in a time crunch to get my Jeep drivable again as my Tahoe has developed a "knock" so I don't want to drive that very much, and the wife is using the car for school.... so my BACKUP vehicles aren't even available.
 
overflow tube is supposed to have coolant in it, so leaking there is a positive sign

Well it definitely HAD coolant in it.... now that coolant is on my driveway. However, it has always has worked as advertised. I'd notice the coolant level in the reservoir move around a little.

The leaking is from the fan chopping the tube up... so that's a horrible sign. :eek:
 
Did you try jumpering the electric fan per RedHeep's suggestion? I think his idea is a good one.

No I haven't, but I also think its a good idea too. I needed to get my fan shroud and overflow tube fixed asap as my backup vehicles are both in use. I'm trying to avoid lengthy jobs or troubleshooting that may cripple my Jeep as I have no backup vehicles at the moment.

I definitely want to try this out though as soon as I can. I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks for being patient with me.
 
Btw... The Dirtbound triple fan set up comes with ZERO instructions and seemed to be missing some hardware. Additionally, I'm not sure how to tap off of my stock temp sensor for the fan controller or if the kit was supposed to come with it's own temp sensor.... but this led me to stop the install and Jerry-rig my fan shroud back in place and replace my overflow tube. It'll stay this way until I get clarification from Dirtbound, or my replacement fan shroud comes in the mail. Whatever happens first, as mentioned before, my backup vehicles are not available at the moment for me to goof around with my Jeep.
 
Forgive me if I missed this, but I read the readers digest version (first and last page). a couple other things to check:
-How was your coolant quality before this started? running straight water? rusty? if so your new radiator could be clogged already, although this isn't likely since it's only at idle
-I have seen plenty of vatozone t-stats stick shut
-There is a tool to test for crankcase gasses in the coolant. some cracked heads are too small of a crack to show up on a normal pressure or compression test. The only true way to be sure is to pull the head and send it to the machine shop to get checked by magnafluxing it.
 
Forgive me if I missed this, but I read the readers digest version (first and last page). a couple other things to check:
-How was your coolant quality before this started? running straight water? rusty? if so your new radiator could be clogged already, although this isn't likely since it's only at idle
-I have seen plenty of vatozone t-stats stick shut
-There is a tool to test for crankcase gasses in the coolant. some cracked heads are too small of a crack to show up on a normal pressure or compression test. The only true way to be sure is to pull the head and send it to the machine shop to get checked by magnafluxing it.


The coolant quality was ok at the beginning of summer when I swapped out my radiator (I flushed the system about 3 years prior). There was VERY little rust.

As for checking for crankcase and exhaust gasses, I've had the mechanic do that with no issues.

I plan to flush my coolant (I've been running a coolant system cleaner) and remove the t-stat all together and see if that makes any difference. I'll replace the t-stat with a higher quality once I'm putting it back together.

And for pulling the head, that is my last resort. I've had the head checked for cracks/leaks/compression and all looked good, so pulling the head to potentially find nothing again is last on my agenda.

Thank you for you input.
 
How are you running your coolant? 50/50 or pure coolant? what is the mix numbers. I didn't see it.

I live in palm springs and we have temps like yours. We also get cold at night like you, but i have never ran a 50/50 mix in any of my cars, i only run one 50/50 mix( gallon ) and the rest distilled water.
 
How are you running your coolant? 50/50 or pure coolant? what is the mix numbers. I didn't see it.

I live in palm springs and we have temps like yours. We also get cold at night like you, but i have never ran a 50/50 mix in any of my cars, i only run one 50/50 mix( gallon ) and the rest distilled water.


I run 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water as well. It doesn't get too cold at night out here in the summer time. It does when winter rolls around tho.
 
go get an OEM radiator.

^^^^ Have you done that yet? You have to ask yourself if pulling the head and wasting all that time and money since it's been checked and nothing shows signs of a leaky headgasket, is worth it when you can get the OEM (MOPAR) "HD" radiator for 160 dollars on line.
 
^^^^ Have you done that yet? You have to ask yourself if pulling the head and wasting all that time and money since it's been checked and nothing shows signs of a leaky headgasket, is worth it when you can get the OEM (MOPAR) "HD" radiator for 160 dollars on line.

When I first started having overheating problems (at the beginning of this summer) I had a stock radiator... it eventually got so hot that it cracked my stock radiator down the side, which drove me to swap the radiator (more expensive aluminum radiator from NAPA), upper and lower hoses, t-stat, thermostat housing, coolant temp sensor, radiator cap, and flushing the system.

It was still running hot while sitting at idle after swapping all of that, but I never let it overheat as I avoided driving in traffic. I eventually swapped my water pump, and fan clutch (right before starting this thread) and it didn't seem to help anything. Since then, I've had my head checked for cracks, leaks, etc... swapped the fan clutch (again) with a ZJ fan clutch, and done a couple other suggestions from this thread.

Honestly, this problem only happens while standing still at idle when the outside temp is 95 or higher. If I put the Jeep in park and raise my RPMs to about 1,500, the temp will stay cool. I'm starting to think its a coolant flow problem, or a partial block somewhere, not allowing much coolant flow at lower (idle) pressures. I've noticed my driving temps have dropped from 210 to about 205ish after installing the ZJ fan clutch, but the temp will still creep up at idle.

My theory: While driving, the RPMs are higher (spinning the water pump faster), creating more coolant flow, added with more air flow, which keeps the temps down. At idle, lower coolant flow (water pump not spinning as fast) and possible partial blockage slows coolant flow even more, plus less air flow, means temps start to creep up? Thoughts?
 
I don't recall: did you test the hoses and thermostat housing with an IR thermometer to make sure your gauge is actually reading correctly?
 
I don't recall: did you test the hoses and thermostat housing with an IR thermometer to make sure your gauge is actually reading correctly?

Yes... they were a little off (T-stat housing being about 10 degrees warmer than the gauge).
 
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