MikeMc
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fremont, Ca
I checked my unbendable tierod and it's bent too. Probably from the ultra-stupid driving I did last weekend. Mine is .281 wall.
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STEERING RECOMENDATIONS
- Thread starter goodwilljeeper
- Start date
- Location
- Antioch, CA
The problem with too strong of a tie rod is it moves the weak point to your knuckle. Not a good trade off if you ask me. I carry a spare tie rod, but no spare knuckles.
MikeMc
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fremont, Ca
Good point. There was somebody at slickrock with a broken knuckle last year. I was so freaked-out and overcome with anxiety about the possibility I couldn't even look at them as we drove by.
PS the anxiety is just me and not my Jeep. Pretty much anything can set it off. i.e. writing this post.
PS the anxiety is just me and not my Jeep. Pretty much anything can set it off. i.e. writing this post.
- Location
- sacramento
Yep . That is a concern. I got rod of the hydro so that should help a ton. I am waiting on ruffstuffs new outers to come out this year and then ill be swapping those on....
MikeMc
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fremont, Ca
Since we've established the Currie is a very good choice, are the tierod ends the same size as stock? I know the knuckle end is the same but what about the threads? I have a few that came off a generic 1-ton kit and trying to figure out if I can keep the ends as spares.
MikeMc
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fremont, Ca
Looks like stock threads are .687" and Currie are 7/8". But the ones I have look like the Currie so they might be the same. I'll have to measure when I get home.
- Location
- Campbell, CA
I just found play on my currie drag link end at pitman. Replaced that and found play at drag link.
so hopefully about 200 buck I will be all good for this summer. I have 2 years on currie, so i guess
Thats maybe average life ? Wish it was a bit longer?
so hopefully about 200 buck I will be all good for this summer. I have 2 years on currie, so i guess
Thats maybe average life ? Wish it was a bit longer?
- Location
- sacramento
2 years is really good if you are wheeling tough trails and beating on it and driving it to and from . My used setup took a couple years to need a TRE at the pitman arm.
Just think go how many stock tie rods you would have killed in that time ...
Just think go how many stock tie rods you would have killed in that time ...
I get about the same, maybe a little longer, but I am on 37's and I can't drive very good! :dunce:
MikeMc
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fremont, Ca
Shit. Looks like these TREs are stock size threads even though they came with a "heavy duty" kit. Oh well.
- Location
- Campbell, CA
Thanks guys for the info on the normal wear and tear on the currielink.....
- Location
- WA state
I don't understand why there are no aftermarket companies, currie included, that do not make a drag link that is replaceable on both ends. I mean, something clearly beefy like currie should be able to do that. Even if there were a sleeve like on the pitman arm side. Maybe a dom tube with threaded bungs or threaded in itself.
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Isnt the ruffstuff ylink kit able to do that?
- Location
- WA state
That's not a stock setup.
Currie/ "stock style" drag link runs from pitman arm to knuckle.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1219
Ruffstuff/ "1-ton steering" tie rod runs knuckle to knuckle, drag link connects to tie rod.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html
Lots of people run the "1-ton" setup, RS now has a machined apparatus to deflect the tie rod roll. But it's not the same.
Crossover steering makes sense to me. But a plug n pray/bolt-in solution is necessary for some.
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Pretty sure i read somewhere (vender advertisements thread) that the ruffstuff setup could be run as inverted T(tierod knuckle to knuckle) or inverted Y(draglink pitman to knuckle). It is also can be reamed for either utk or otk on the passenger side. Something that currie is not able to do. Seems like its the answer. I may be wrong but thats how I understood it at the time that kit was released.
- Location
- WA state
I do not think that the pass side TRE for the RS 1-ton setup is high misalignment, which would be necessary for use as a drag link. It also does not have a bend in it like the stock drag link. Which in theory is not a big deal on a stock/stock-ish setup. But when you add a thicker diff cover and other stuff it could interfere. I guess one could bend the tube, but then there still leads to more modifications and having the correct equipment or paying some more money to build it.
But, the only thing I can think of that could be close to a stock style setup would be a high mis TRE that fits their new tapered adapter piece. Although you still no do have the added clearance, unless there are high mis offset TRE's
blubullett
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Modesto CA
I believe it is high misalignment. I looked at the spares I have in the garage and it has the same size misalignment offset the tre at the pitman arm has.
I have Serious offroad 1 ton steering and really have no problem with tie rod roll. I use the bushings JCR sells to combat tie rod roll (I would buy them from Serious but didn't see them on his site) and change them once a year or so. If someone is complaining of a huge dead spot they aren't doing something right. It has no worse dead spot then my Mustang or brand new f350 I drive at work.
I have Serious offroad 1 ton steering and really have no problem with tie rod roll. I use the bushings JCR sells to combat tie rod roll (I would buy them from Serious but didn't see them on his site) and change them once a year or so. If someone is complaining of a huge dead spot they aren't doing something right. It has no worse dead spot then my Mustang or brand new f350 I drive at work.
- Location
- Patterson, Ca
How much lift do you run blubullet? The steeper the angle the worse the roll will be. When the jeep still had 7.5" re springs, the dead spot was pretty bad. With the Dana 44 I run heims with a separate drag link and tie rod and there is no comparison to how much better it drives.
- Location
- San Diego
The way the currie setup is built its not really safe to do it like that. The angles required to clear all the brackets there isn't a good way to have a threaded end at the Knuckle and not bend it or put pressure the wrong way against a jam nut.
As far as bending tie-rods goes, the currie tie-rod is designed to bend and be bent back rather than damage other steering parts. Bending is not a failure. If you can't live with that SAVVY off-road makes an unbendable tierod for the currie steering. 4340 heat threaten chromoly. It will spring back like a leaf spring.
For those of you going through tie-Rod ends in a short amount of time make sure you are not overtraveling the ends. I had that problem and it's rather common in XJs. I put my drag link in a press and added about 5* of angle to give it more down travel.
831_xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Santa Cruz
The rod at the pitman arm has a much larger hole than the drag link and tie rod tres.
they're not high misalignment afaik
they're not high misalignment afaik