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So what do you guys think??

New update, I should have the exhaust done sometime early next week, maybe Tuesday. I'll up some more pics after it's done and make a video too on Youtubie! I only found one person with true dual on the 6 and it doesn't sound anything like mine.. So at least that would be unique, one in a handfull is better than one with a million. LOL I hope I can get it to sound good!
 
So I got the exhaust done today, looks pretty sweet. Later on it could be smoothed out a bit in some
spots but overall for a first time jobie it would leave a good template. It's still ridiculously loud and
sounds amazing at medium load between 1600 -2500 RPM. I took it to two e-test places
(the one e-test can't facilitate duals to each side) and everyone crowded around it lol but from
inside the shop it's very convincing V8 Camaro sound to it. I'm very happy with it.

The bad news it failed, dumps too much fuel, so I got to trim that back when I get a conditional to get the
sticker and stuff. I'd rather fix it though oil companies make too much money as it is lol.

I'll get a vid later for it, maybe tomorrow or Friday I'll use my buddies good DV cam instead of stupid phone cam.

So anyway here are some pics:

 
I can appreciate the work you did but it is fugly. Should have just done black. It would have looked much cleaner. You might want to get another fan before you drive it or you will be rebuilding it again.

A guy I work with has true dual on his cj with glasspacks and it sounds like poo. Even he won't try to claim otherwise.
 
For us up here 10 cents a liter goes to the government up here, 30 cents goes to
regulations, overhead and whatever crap that need to be paid for and the rest goes
to the oil company; anywhere from 70-90 cents a liter. It says right on the pumps, in a
pie chart too lol.

I try to stay away from black, flat black. Sometimes certain things will have black but it's
an easy colour use and it's like cheating to me personally. If I see a black paint job especially
if it's a hombrew one for some reason it just tells me the person is not willing to put any
effort into. I find it like a sign of laziness really, I try to tell people to stay away from black
and think of colours that might or could work. My nephew had a nice red mustang and ruined
it by accenting black on it.

Funny though only one person other than you also said to use black (a friend of mine) and I
told him to shove his black somewhere else lol. He's like "ya well, it doesn't look bad anyway".
for the most part everyone loves it, that seen it that is. But that's just how I feel about it.

Yes the pipe runs underneath, the front primaries come down to and follow down the left
of the vehicle and the rear collector comes down and right goes across the bell housing down the right side.
 
Oh and yea, you'd have to hear it to know cause I had my doubts too. Especially since
there a few CJ's and a YJ running around my area and I think too a Cherokee and they sound like
a tractor not to mention a slant 6 dart a buddy of mine owns too and it didn't sound that great either.
I had my worries, big worries I felt. But as soon as I turned that key all that went away I had
butterflies and I was giddy for awhile. I couldn't believe how good it sounded for a 6. Hey man if
I get muffler and shop guys wanting to see what V8 is under the hood and find only a 6 cylinder then
that muffler guy I took it to that did the job well. He told me himself it's very convincing. He's been
doing it forever and the other old guy there too I tend to believe them. You could see the look on his
face, he was surprised, we all were. Before putting the exhaust on when I ran 2 8" shooters
to the ground it sounded just like a straight pipe HD. I don't know.. take it as you see it.
I like it, my friends like it, the neighbors that don't mind the loud like it. Hope the cops don't mind
though.
 
No vid yet, Haven't seen my friend in about a week. He's the only one with a good DV Cam. Anyway I managed
to get my A/F gauge going gonna do a bit of tuning today. I put back the inner valve springs yesterday and
holy hell that was a PITA! 5 and 6 were so hard to get to, should have done the hardest one first I was already
tired. Gonna go for a bit of a cruise today and visit the machine shop that did the block and head, they were
eager to see it, should be a nice Thanks Giving surprise. ;D

By the way I did manage to recalibrate my speedo but I did seem to have a discrepancy. As far as I know the BA5/10
had a 5th gear ratio of 0.79 but I seem to have a 0.72 ratio cited by one site http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm.
I did the old drive at certain RPM and stick the needle at proper speed which seemed to work perfectly, 1st-4th reflected
the proper speed at RPM with my tire size and final gear but fifth didn't so when I changed the calculator to the 0.72 ratio
and had it calculate RPM to speed it was dead on. Were there two gearing versions for the Peugeot?
 
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i found a pretty sweet calculator not sure where i downloaded it but uses a spread sheet you click the trans your using type the axle gearing, rpm and the tire size and it gives you the speed for each gear pm you email and ill send it to you
 
For a while now I've been having an overcooling problem with the stroker. I was aware of it from the beginning but didn't figure it was that bad till I couldn't take the hit in MPG anymore. Today I figure I'd do something about it and hopefully get it back to a decent MPG.

I'm going to try the CTS resistor mod and use one of my ballast resistors for an inline to the fan. I figure the fan may be the culprit here. It blows hard enough to blow up and against the hood and back in your face pretty hard, not to mention it's located right at the gap between the PS and the block so the heat generated by the exhaust gets quite a bit of flow. Although the fuel rail and the intake manifold and intake are freezing cold (think ambient surface temp at this time of year cold) which I like in a sense but I'm not sure of the effect of that for the ECU.

The engine runs at about 60-65C but looks like it's under that now, just before the middle line between 40 and 100. I've had problems with open and closed loop going in and out halfway between the middle line and 100 so I figure since the rebuild it's have been always running in open loop and ignoring my O2. I've noticed this with my AF gauge as well.

Currently I have a 180* stat in but I want to keep it in there till the other mods are finished and I get some numbers first then make a decision from there. If all else fails I might have to restrict coolant flow with a washer or get a valve for the upper hose. I'll post back up at the end of the day for anyone that is interested.

BTW, still no vid yet. I was to do it yesterday but nobody was home anywhere. So I did my collector gaskets, got these Remflex graphite gaskets for $18. Little pricey but are reusable creates a positive seal and are good up to 3000* I'll try to get a vid today, maybe heh heh.

P.S I'm going to put the resistor for CTS up the harness further instead of at the pigtail for the sensor. The wires are kinda close to the primaries, I'd figure a delicate splice would be safer on top of the motor instead of that hotspot, holler if anyone reading this that it might change the effect of this mod.
 
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You need to have the factory sppec 195*F thermostat in there, the 180 opens too soon and let's the coolant flow ouht of the block before its warmed up, I would bet that has a lot to do with your over cooling problem.
 
I was just gonna change that out today bloody rain though ack! Not even a warm rain,
bloody cold rain. I've noticed the gauge going up and down a lot more than it used to.
I'm probably going to end up doing the valve mod as well so I'm going to use the tripping
around to see what it's going to do. I haven't driven more than 5 minutes on it yet but by
the end of the day I'll end up changing it anyway I bet. ;p

I just want to do a few changes at a time to get a better picture of things but ya I too think
it needs 192* in there (haven't found 195* they all say 192* ain't that weird) it's running to
cold and it is opening too soon.
 
Ran for a while now, seems to be getting better mileage now but it still runs a little rich at the bottom and leans out at the top. Runs more rich than anything but leans just a little at the top. Seems to ignore the o2 still and sometimes stalls at lights I can smell the fuel when it fires back up again, seems to flood itself to a stall. I did my temp sender mod and installed a valve for the upper rad hose, now it stays warm and decent heat comes out now. I wonder if my fuel pressure regulator is stuck or stiff? I was thinking of an adjustable one anyway, just not sure yet ATM. Good news is that I can feel more and more power as I drive more it's even starting to let go in 3rd now.
 
I think you may have seen rockers from another engine made to work on the 4.0L head. he only bolt ones that I know of are the old Mopar (which you can't get anymore), the Harland Sharps and the Yella Terras. All of which are aluminum. HS does have a set that adjusts similar to a SBC but requires machining and still they are aluminum. If you do find the set you SS ones you mentioned let me know.
 
I managed to get a vid made doing a little brake stand and a pass on a back road with a couple of buddies. I'm going to try to get him to upload it soon. I seem to be having lots of trouble getting vids of my Jeep out of people this year.
 
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