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So what do you guys think??

505 supplied the injectors but I think they use Ford 24# injectors. They are grey and I haven't really bothered to check and see if Ford was imprinted on them or check a number. The fuel pressure is regulated by the stock equipment which looks like it's not working properly anyway and will be changed once I can afford to get an adjustable one. The gauge I'm using is a Stewart Warner gauge. It's not bad but I think I might get an AEM unit because this one is older model uses the single wire so I have to wait till it's warmed up to get a reading.
 
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I made some vids a little while back but they are a little crappy cause I was dumb enough
to use my crackphone but should get at least a little bit of the point across. I'll be
tracking down a decent camera this week, should be easy really. I'm sure a lot of the
family got cameras and crap heh heh. Mind you I warn you about the camera, I think it
uses some sort of volume leveling which I hate and it likes to let in loud bursts of sound so
it sounds like someone is banging on something every so often.

I got 3 vids up, two of them are Belfountain cruises and the other is me showing my jeep.
Link to my channel YT.

http://www.youtube.com/user/CanadaBud23?feature=mhee

You may need to turn the volume down a bit I find the featured vid is a little loud.
 
Can anyone recommend Spring perches for my D35 to convert from SOA to SUA??? Or can I just get OEM perches?
Heh heh I need to get new leaf packs and I figure I might as well do my lowering jobbie if I'm going to change them.
This year I'm going to be doing my suspension and some small projects here and there for the body.

On top of that has anyone have any info about a front track bar if it can be cut and shorten? I figure the bar is hollow
and would make a sleeve inside and weld back together or make a sleeve for the outside or whatnot. I'd figure it would
be pretty safe since the forces are along the length of it. And lastly I was thinking to do crossover steering as well,
what do you guys think minimum size tubing I can go? Lowering doesn't leave much space to collapse into in there.

Just looking for suggestions and input.
 
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Sure, you could cut & shorten a track bar. Pick a straight spot, remove some (how much is up to you & your math skills) and sleeve the two halves together.

Crossover steering can be as small diameter as the OE stuff, no sweat. The trick with crossover steering is going to be clearance with the sway bar axle mounts & diff cover, though. You may need to re fabricate sway mounts. Also - as long as you are going to be fabricating a new track bar & sway bar mounts, consider going for WJ knuckles & brakes. Gets you dual piston calipers, more steering options & new ball joints + unit bearings in the process. $$ but bling bling, yo.
 
I thought it would have been ok to do that just wasn't for sure. I've always heard the horror
stories about those type of things but I think they are more applied to people and extreme
lifts and Ginormous tires with stock steering linkages.

Cool cool, I'd figure there may be clearance issues just wasn't sure how much. I might be
able to alleviate some of that if I convert to a torsion tube sway bar. I wasn't for sure on
the diff cover though I think I should mock up something to see how much clearance there
really is. I can see it looks fine and dandy on lifted but lowering geez, there's always
something new.

WJ knuckles and brakes hmm. I don't know unless of course there is a performance convert
for OEM WJ stuff. I think I'd rather spend the money there if possible. But that idea there
can definitely stay on the back burner for the time being. Maybe I'll get lucky and find some
used ones from someone.

Now about those spring perches...
 
Do the WJ knuckles and brakes increase the track width of a Renix D30 and/or can I use
01' LP D30's and bolt on? I know there was axle changes but I'm not sure on specifics.
There's a few 00's and might be an 01' XJ in the yard along with a bunch of 03'-06's too.
Ack! Just trying to think where to look for what I need.
 
The WJ axles are all LP, so an 01 LP from an XJ will work just fine. Any dana 30 will, I think, work just as well as another for this swap.
Track width changes will be very small if any. I've never heard of it being commented on. Probably 1/2" or less of total change.
If you can get an 03-06 TJ D30, it will already have the correct unit bearings. Any XJ / TJ bearing after late '99, call it 2000, will work - WJ unit bearings are not desireable though some have been hack-jobbed into service.
 
So just to get me straight here, I can use basically any axle out of 99' and later XJ/TJ
and the brake upgrades will bolt on, right? Like will the newer TJ/XJ rotors be compatible
with the WJ knuckle/brake? I thought the WJ stuff was 5x5 not 5x4.5. I'm a little confused
here. As of now when I go to the yard I'm going to be looking for an 03-06 D30, is that
what I should be looking for then? If it's 5x5 maybe I'll get some SRT8 replicas for it then.
Well I don't know as of yet, let me know what you think.
 
wj axles are 5 on 5 but i'm fairly certain your going to need a rotor for the same year axle you get. There were a few changes made to the hubs throughout the years.

I love the work man, look super clean for a renix set up. What cyl head did you use? if HO did you port match the renix mani? This thing must be fast...
 
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Well, what I wanted to do was or I should say try out as suggested by yossarian here is to
swap my old D30 for the newer D30 so I can swap out the knuckles and brakes for WJ equipment.
Now I was thinking about it because the C on my axle is slightly bent not bad but it should be
changed out sometime soon. And I figure I could try out some of my ideas on the front suspension
at the same time. I'm just getting a little confused on the subject because I'm not actually
sure what I'm thinking ATM is justified yet.

I need better brakes and I need an axle. I prefer to use XJ/TJ D30 because I want to keep the
4.5 bolt and wasn't sure what year to get that would allow me to use WJ knuckles and brakes
as a bolt on.

Thanks, it's the stock head but I did smooth it out and also have done a port match on it as
well as machining for bigger valves and springs and better seals.
 
You need:
WJ ball joints
WJ rotors re-drilled to 5x4.5
XJ / TJ year 2000 or above hubs
2002+ WJ calipers & brackets & pads
JKS Hub Spacers - 1/4" of spacer between the hubs & the knuckles to align the U-joint with the ball joints so you don't break shit while turning
I think that covers it.
If you get a 2002 TJ dana 30, add spacers behind the hubs & replace the ball joints with WJ units then add brakes you should be good to go. If / when you wanted more steering options, they are available with the WJ knuckle.
 
I don't know, I was trying to keep it straight and shift well. I wasn't paying attention to vibes really.
Normal driving there's no vibes really except right at my feet but the exhaust is right under though.
It's more loud than anything really. Many cars that do speed runs have solid front axles actually. lol
It seems wrong but I don't feel any difference than IFS on other cars. Other than the fact that IFS
seem to be more twitchy.

Could have went faster but the room I gave myself wasn't enough and the pavement wasn't warm
enough for traction.
 
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Finally fixed the idle issue it had. It would stall out after sitting for a little bit, like at traffic
lights and such. The idle air would try to choke itself but I think it's because I didn't use the
stock one and it thinks that the amount of travel for the plunger is right but its actually
wrong. So the cone I made for the plunger to regulate was modified to put slots in it to
let more air bypass the plunger and it seems to have cured the idle problem. It's still a little
too rich at the bottom though, burns more gas than necessary but not too much to smoke
or be sooty in the pipes or anything.

Another problem I think I might be having right now is the starter. I blew my last starter
about 2 weeks ago and this one I got sounds like its not happy either. I do get my
starters from the junk yard but they all sound really good for the first week then it sounds
like it's struggling again but then my voltage shows really low as well. Another thing to
look into I guess lol.

Finally got a video made for the exhaust. I sorta made a before video to get a comparison
for the exhaust I'm going to do myself. It's more of a sound issue for me, I can hear a
tingy crackly sound right off the end of the pipes that I can hear and I don't like it that much
at all. So I'm going make my own to try an get rid of that sound so I can hear what the sound
the motor is actually making. It sounds real good actually, very meaty throaty exhaust. It
goes away at around 2300RPM lat light to medium load then crackles light crazy under heavy
load. Well you'll see in the video. At 2:35 you can hear the motor after the exhaust
crackling goes away, will try to make that sound all the time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-JhR5QOkBI
 
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