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Recommendations on Spark Plugs

the #6 plug is easily accessed with a u-jouint on your socket... then a 6''+ extension...
put some blue painters tape in the u-joint mechanism, you dont want it to slopp all over the place... just wobble once youve got the socket on the plug... you want it stiff enough to aim the plug back in at an angle once your done....


DEAD SIMPLE. fail troll is fail =\

Nice tip! But unless you are extremely talented (and lucky), you should always start the plug back into the threads straight on with your fingers on the plug, socket, or straight extension. (Don't want to cross-thread) :hang:
 
is there logic in here somewhere. Anywhere, as long as it is a Shucks?

when I worked at advance I looked at them. I even ordered a set through the store for the jeep, took 3 days to get them. I thought they looked kinda cheep, the electrode and element both looked like they would start flaking off pieces soon.

Well no need to be rude. They work really well for me and thats that. Not saying any of the other plugs are bad. These are just the ones I chose. Theres no harm in trying.
 
Thanks everyone for your suggestions! I've decided to try the Champion Truck plugs on my '94 HO Cherokee 4.0 I6. I'll let you know how they work. It's been about 50,000 miles since these were replaced and I have no idea what kind are in there. My Jeep has about 180,000 miles on it and i'm looking to get the most mileage out of it that i can. Sounds like the cap and rotor brands aren't too important. I recently bought some autozone "duralast" brake pads and a battery from there and have been quite please with their service. I think I'll go with the duralast wires this go-around along with the cap and rotor.
 
Where the heck do you buy the truck plugs? I thought AutoZone carried them. Went to AutoZone to get some Champion truck plugs today and they don't carry them. So I bought a glasspack instead :)
 
I am looking online at the Advance website and I don't see any listed. I see Champion copper plus (OEM RC12LYC), Champion double platinum power, and Champion platinum power.

My friend said he got his from AutoZone years ago but they didn't have them on the computer when I checked today.
 
I just buy mine from rockauto. I buy my oil filters, air filters, plugs all at the same time in bundles so I have them when I need them.
 
I saw an episode on horsepower tv or something like that where they dyno'd E3's and got more HP than any other plugs. But I HIGHLY doubt they were sponsoreded by E3.....or were they? LOL
 
Horsepower TV is a joke, they should call it "spend all your money on bolt on parts that any idiot with a big bank account can do so you can spin the tires really fast TV" Maybe that was just too long of a name?
 
Slightly off topic: I had an '87 Jetta that I put splitfires in and I ran it a few miles from the house and it wouldn't even start back up after shut off. I threw the old basch platinums back in it and it fired right up. That was a funn experience. Took the plugs right back to advance (might have even been parts amerca then still).
 
Nice tip! But unless you are extremely talented (and lucky), you should always start the plug back into the threads straight on with your fingers on the plug, socket, or straight extension. (Don't want to cross-thread) :hang:


im not sure about the H.O. or late model heads, but on the renix head there is a notch in the head right above the spark plug... i use it as a guide for installing the plugs... you can notice the spark plug socket wobble if its not going in straight... ive never had trouble.
 
Nice tip! But unless you are extremely talented (and lucky), you should always start the plug back into the threads straight on with your fingers on the plug, socket, or straight extension. (Don't want to cross-thread) :hang:
A piece of hose slipped over the plug makes a nice "tool" for starting them too. Not really necessary on the 4.0's though since its a very easy job.
 
Hallo.



Make a cut in the threads of an old sparkplug and you have your thread cleaner device. A very easy tool ,to clean the threads before you install your new plugs.
The dirt will stay into the small cut. :idea:
 
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I use Champion Copper Truck Plugs that have been side-gapped to .030" with Magnecor Racing Wires and the Wells Gold cap and rotor set. This combo is still working well for me more than two years after initial installation.
 
Interestingly, I found that replacing my distributor cap and rotor improved things MUCH more than the plugs and wires did. I was having issues with the engine having a very, very rough start - it would start and idle a bit rough, but would not want to put out much power and would have a very rough first acceleration and shift. Originally I thought it was a transmission issue. Replaced my plugs and wires a few weeks ago, no change except it improved my gas mileage a bit... replaced my distributor cap and rotor (were BADLY encrusted, way overdue) and it's been running perfectly since then. I used bargain basement $1.50 sparkplugs.

wim hoppenbrouwers: thanks! never even thought of that.

PS - be careful working on the back two plugs on the 4.0L. I had to flex the heater hoses to get my ratchet in, and my 13-year-old heater control valve body decided it was time to break in half. Two other valves at the JY broke the same way before I could get them all the way out, those things are DELICATE once they've had hot coolant on them for a decade.
 
I use Champion Copper Truck Plugs that have been side-gapped to .030" with Magnecor Racing Wires and the Wells Gold cap and rotor set. This combo is still working well for me more than two years after initial installation.

Sorry to quote myself but I forgot to mention that my twice-a-year maintenance schedule of cleaning and spraying WD-40 on the cap, rotor, and wire-set, as well as filing and re-gapping the plugs also helps, quite dramatically at that. Of course I am aware that side-gapped plugs will likely wear out sooner than standard gapped ones would, but since the plugs are relatively cheap, I'm cool with that caveat.
 
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