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Recommendations on Spark Plugs

I'm no expert, but did have an expert tell me once that the 4.0 can be sensitive to plugs. He's had lots of folks come in with runability issues...changed the plugs to the original stock Autolite plugs and problems go away. I've run them in my '89 4.0 without problems...and that's 270,000 miles. They aren't spendy either...bonus!

stock is not autolite, it is champion. At least from 86-97, maybe the new ones switched. Th OE plug is a champion copper RC12cy something or another plug. The autolites do work fine though
 
Which would be better for a high mileage motor? Champion Truck Plugs or Champion Coppers? I have been running the coppers for nearly 30k miles and it is getting about time to replace them again. I asked this question in one of the existing "spark plug threads" but never got an answer..........................................I know the truck plugs run a bit cooler so wouldn't that make fouling much easier to happen?
 
Ive had problems with all kinds of plugs. The E3 plugs are the only ones I'll run now. It runs so much smoother then any other to me.

I've been interested in running the e3 plugs, but their applications aren't stellar. I've heard good things about them.. unlike those stupid pulsar plugs

Has anyone seen a reddish tint on the porcelain before?

Usually from additives in the fuel.

I'm no expert, but did have an expert tell me once that the 4.0 can be sensitive to plugs.

I know mine is sensitiveness to plugs. I tried champion plugs, but it made that hot/cold misfire worse on mine when it was stock. On one stroker I ran the double electrode NGKs.. this stroker doesn't like the double electrodes too much.

I run NGK on it and other than a slight mis at idle (maybe from the cam, but I don't know yet) they are good. They aren't the stock plugs though. I don't remember what they are, but will look later. I contacted NGK and had a lengthy discussion and these is what they recommended.
 
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Chris, I just re-read your project build and saw that your dcr is ~7:1. I didn't search wolfs yet to find out, but will do so. I did find two pages that said reddish tint was due to the additives--better than ash white, sooty black, or glazed.
 
the #6 plug is easily accessed with a u-jouint on your socket... then a 6''+ extension...
put some blue painters tape in the u-joint mechanism, you dont want it to slopp all over the place... just wobble once youve got the socket on the plug... you want it stiff enough to aim the plug back in at an angle once your done....


DEAD SIMPLE. fail troll is fail =\
 
Which would be better for a high mileage motor? Champion Truck Plugs or Champion Coppers? I have been running the coppers for nearly 30k miles and it is getting about time to replace them again. I asked this question in one of the existing "spark plug threads" but never got an answer..........................................I know the truck plugs run a bit cooler so wouldn't that make fouling much easier to happen?

You have the answer in your motor. Pull your coppers and take a look. If they look white to light tan, check the gap, correct if needed and stick 'em back in for another 20K. I've had plugs last 100K with the only thing wrong being large gap which lead to voltage leak misfires when ignition was very wet.
 
Yeah I know, they are cheap enough though so the peace of mind is worth it. I was really wondering if I should stick with Champion Coppers (not reusing the old ones but new) or switch to Champion Truck Plugs......that is my big question......what are the benefits either way?
 
Yeah I know, they are cheap enough though so the peace of mind is worth it. I was really wondering if I should stick with Champion Coppers (not reusing the old ones but new) or switch to Champion Truck Plugs......that is my big question......what are the benefits either way?

If it runs fine and you are happy with the plugs then stay with them.
 
Seems to run fine. I had big overheating problems about 2 years ago due to a terrible AutoZone radiator....I wonder if it hurt the plugs any.....that is why I was thinking to stay on the 30k replacement interval for non platinum plugs.
 
True. I never lost any fluid due to this radiator but I still ran hot....like it has a pressure leak but never a fluid leak. The strangest thing. There was one time where I was on the highway running at about 240-250 degrees for about an hour or so.

Got rid of the AutoZone radiator and went to a 3 core CSF radiator and never had a problem again.
 
the lawnmower plugs? Honestly other than in the package they sell from quadratec the only place I have seen those is in the lawnmower aisle. No offense, but I consider them another gimmick plug.

Sorry you feel this way but you can get them anywere. They are not just an lawnmower plug. They have them for motorcycles, and a huge amount of cars out there. And have sence they started. People dont like them for what the ground looks like. But they WORK. trust me. Ive never had a plug that put spunk, and stay clean like these did. Plugs would carbon up fast. just by running the engine for a while. These plugs with there design, keep them selves really clean for, I dont know ive had them for four mounths and still look like there out of the package. I dont feel at all that there gimmick, and are better than most leading brands to me. Schucks, autozone, napa, and many others all have them. But schucks seem to be the only that try to keep in stock.
 
I've been interested in running the e3 plugs, but their applications aren't stellar. I've heard good things about them.. unlike those stupid pulsar plugs



Usually from additives in the fuel.



I know mine is sensitiveness to plugs. I tried champion plugs, but it made that hot/cold misfire worse on mine when it was stock. On one stroker I ran the double electrode NGKs.. this stroker doesn't like the double electrodes too much.

I run NGK on it and other than a slight mis at idle (maybe from the cam, but I don't know yet) they are good. They aren't the stock plugs though. I don't remember what they are, but will look later. I contacted NGK and had a lengthy discussion and these is what they recommended.

Like I said there really good from what ive seen. Also on other plugs Ive had the eletrodes wear out relitivaly fast. But with the ground design on these I think it really works. The electrode is still nice and square, not rounded after four mounths of solid driving. Not really to sure about economy, but they did add some spunk to me compared to other plugs ive tried. Sorry for spelling.
 
I wholly disliked Bosch plat +4s. It didn't seem to run well and I hated that I couldn't set the gap.
 
Sorry you feel this way but you can get them anywere.

But schucks seem to be the only that try to keep in stock.


is there logic in here somewhere. Anywhere, as long as it is a Shucks?

when I worked at advance I looked at them. I even ordered a set through the store for the jeep, took 3 days to get them. I thought they looked kinda cheep, the electrode and element both looked like they would start flaking off pieces soon.
 
They are starting to show at my work in 2-stroke outboard motors. The first thing that I do is replace them with the stock replacement. That sometimes fixes the problem but not usually. The point is that one particular design of a spark plug will not fit all applications for example, older 2-stroke engines like a single electrode copper plug but lawnmowers may like them. I have not tried them on an XJ and it won't happen.
 
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