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Project "why cant i leave anything alone" mj build

VAhasnoWAVES said:
its tight... but there is room. my crossmember ended up basically being a carbon copy of the clayton kit. i dont know how people stuff the upper on the passenger side, my exhaust would not allow it.

with such a tall trackbar mount at both ends i cant believe your still using a pitman arm with drop to it. for my highsteer setup i had to go with a waggy arm. interesting though. it also shouldnt matter a ton that the trackbar isnt perfectly strait cross car. the control arms will control for/aft movement, the trackbar will still do its job cross car.

i built everything at full bump... and let me tell you, it was a nightmare packaging everything. mostly because i established where i wanted full bump and was not willing to sacrifice. trackbar and tie rod wanted to blow through the oil pan. tie rod and pitman arm wanted to collide (with a waggy arm mind you), tie rod was hitting the bolt for the track bar frame side mount, pitman arm running into the frame, ram couldnt live where i wanted it to (under the track bar)... but after all was said and done, i could cycle the steering lock to lock with no issues. and when i drooped it to cycle the suspension and steering together, everything was awesome.

the only thing i wanted to do but wasnt able to was outboard the frame side mount for the track bar like you did. the high steer would just not let me do it, and i would have had to relocate the steering box to push the whole axle forward.

Im not sure if my outside of frame set up will work yet just bought it cause it was cheap and figured ill try it this way and if not cut it to go under body. Whats ur 44 out of? i wish mine did have the cast wedges. I need to move perches over a lil bit. also where did u get ur coil perches the part that retains coil. And do u like that OX locker, been waiting to order one or arb. just trying to get some other stuff to it and drive mine lol
Click to expand...
 
jeeping99tj said:
Im not sure if my outside of frame set up will work yet just bought it cause it was cheap and figured ill try it this way and if not cut it to go under body. Whats ur 44 out of? i wish mine did have the cast wedges. I need to move perches over a lil bit. also where did u get ur coil perches the part that retains coil. And do u like that OX locker, been waiting to order one or arb. just trying to get some other stuff to it and drive mine lol
Click to expand...
i like the trackbar outside the frame. but like i said... for me it was a fight between the trackbar, pitman arm, and tie rod at full bump.

my 44 is a narrowed ford 44. rubicon width inners.

my perches are from TNT. you could make something similar fairly easy.

the ox works great. it was easy to adjust the shifter. with hydro assist... i never actually unlock it. i bought the axles used. if i were to build them myself i would spool the front and do a selectable in the rear.
 
Nice im running a spool for now we will see how i like it. My axle is a 79 bronco so wedges are casted in.

I did get to play with jeep a lil last night. Got the axles in and did a full compression and ride height run. looks good i think but still need to figure a few things out with it.

Had to pull the slingers off my other shafts, guess there werent included in my seal kit.




fully compressed up to where i think ill have bump stops and all looks to clear everything


Spool is in and tq for last time


This would be ride height. was just coming off jack stands. looks decent


this is some knuckle pics


Really trying not to drop this thing into jeep. its my blazer motor i built. 408 ls fully built callies rotating stroker assembly weisco piston, trick flow 235 cc cnc ported head and big cam with all arp studs haha



I got the spindles on last night and almost back to a roller. going to do my final track back measurements on the ground.
 
last night i got to messing with trying to get it back on its feet. Got the hubs all assembled and started on brakes. the damn high steer arm hits on my bonjo bolt on caliper so need to mill some off of it but not alot.

This was a mezzy job. so used to sealed unit bearing front ends lol. The the bearings packed, the inner spindle nut tq to 50 and back off 1/4 turn, lock ring and outer nut tq to 150. seen a bunch of dif method and tq specs on this so hope that is right



lock outs on




Then i started to assembly brakes which was a puzzle cause i had no idea how any of this came off so good ole youtube saved me.
But was trying to get caliper lined up and wasnt going to i looked at the back side and my damn ballistic histeer arm was hitting. Looking around other dana 44 had the binjo bolt at top mine tucks in by the hi steer. idk if i can swap calipers or just rock this and cut off a lil on arm. dont think itll hurt anything.
 
So it looks like your nine is set up for chevy brakes but you have ford calipers for the front. How are you going to explain that to your master cylinder?

That motor is wet sauce.
 
hopefully it likes it haha. wasnt sure what the rears were from. i need to cut off and reclock cause they are at 12 o clock and doesn t look like ill get all the air out of system, PO put them on and need to find out which car they come from. thought he said crown vic.
 
jeeping99tj said:
hopefully it likes it haha. wasnt sure what the rears were from. i need to cut off and reclock cause they are at 12 o clock and doesn t look like ill get all the air out of system, PO put them on and need to find out which car they come from. thought he said crown vic.
Click to expand...

I clocked mine too high. I have to remove the axle from leaf packs to remove caliper bolts.
 
Got a lil done last night. got the brakes up front all done and lines on. got some hard steering tubes in there now and now on to track bar.





ride height angles/






this is my attempt to move coil perch out a couple inches and stiffing up that inner c on the 44. ill box this all in once i know if i like it or not.

 
may be an optical illusion but it looks like your panhard is crossing your tie rod.
 
ya it was in pick been trying to get as much length out of the pan hard to equal the drag link but just not happening. I also having issues with the tie rod hitting heim at the pit man arm at full compression. I adjusted the pinion angle a lil to make it point at the transfer case and when i did that it mess with the drag and tie rod also. Guess its back to the drawling board on this. The Po of the axles made the lower mounts and think it pushed the axle out a few inches also. I cant go out on the frame side using that bracket i have cause itll hit spring and will push it out over drag link, and cant really move the passenger side bracket out because of the spring. trying to get this all perfect is a pain in the ass with Hi steer.

here some pics of what i did last night. shoes and springs back out for more trial and error



dont mind this crappy bracket just tried to have something hold rod end



But u can see here any bracket in front of spring will hit my tie rod. I might try flippng tie rod to bottom of that histeer arm or putting heim at top of pitman arm








Idk what im going to try tonight. maybe flipping those parts or putting under frame bracket on and see where that goes. as of now the track bar is 4" shorter than the drag link. I plan on doing hydro assist so that might not be a problem but its still a band aid. Might try making a bracket that will squeeze the track bar in front of the spring on passenger side and go from there.

thanks
 
messed with track bar some and maybe getting somewhere. The more and more i think about this the more i want to go ORI or air shocks. this rig will be driving on street but not often.
The room id have with air shocks would fix my track bar length issues




this is with 36s

i modified that outside track bar mount to it goes under unibody


hits there but cant adjust bump stop so it doesnt go this high possibly


this is were track bar should land if i kept the same 36" drag link length



flipped the tie rod to check clearance on everything and all seems good this way






i have not moved the steering box yet but will if i keep having issues with clearance.

This is my first time doing any of this so pretty much open for any ideas to assist me. I want it all to be done right the first time and want to keep it as reliable as possible
 
that looks pretty close. i think lock to lock youll rub. dont forget to articulate it... one side at full droop, the other at full compression... and check lock to lock.

with a 35" MTR, i made the tire clear the rear of the front inner fender, and thats where it now lives. i need to clearance the front of the inner fender and stretch the axle before i can go any larger in tire. its tight... my axle is narrowed. and i wanted to give up zero compression. my track bar and tie rod come within about half an inch from the oil pan.

weight bearing shocks would solve a lot of issues, i agreee.
 
From what I am seeing is you have moved the axle forward about 2.5" and may be need to move the steering box the same amount. The length of the Panhard/track bars isn't a big deal if they are parallel and as long as you can have them convenient. The next most important thing is closest to flat at ride height and third is same length.

If your panhard and track bar are the same height (from ground) at the knuckle they need to be the same height at the frame end. I made a dropped pitman that matched the lowest frame side bracket that would fit my rig bottomed out.

I think my tie rod is lower than yours though.










Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr
 
THANKS for the repllies. ive been pulling out my hair trying to get this thing done right. Try to research as much as i can on my down time.

I can get them pretty parallel with track bar being at the original mount on axle and prolly could in front of spring also. I think they pretty flat at ride height. Im going to move pit man heim back under and see if it comes close to the tie rod since i move it. I can move lock to lock and pitman arm only came close to contact when wheels were straight. When turned it moved away from tie rod.

tie rod is lower now but drag link is not at horrible angle




I def need to do some more clearnace for the tires. i thought it when of been good but nope not even close. Imight pull fenders if to big of an issue and make tube fenders when i do exo and patch in with steel and repaint it.
 
Well i think i got everything in there. Equal length and same angle track bar and drag link. need to do some final testing and then weld the crap out of it. If coils bind or hit im going Air shocks, here is some pics







looks so good u cant even tell it has a track bar. now if only it all works together lol
 
It looks like you nailed it!

I used a large air hammer to massage the firewall and seams at the back of the tire and was able to get some extra room but the battery shelf had to go..
 
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