Project Chemotherapy

[asp]

I'd worry about upper shock placement first, the intake (well the getting clean air into the charger) is probably the least of the issues you are going to have.
Put the engine in, get an idea of where the shock is going to be (idea, not final mounted) then mount and do the charger.

Other than that, this should be pretty neat.

I think the SC pretty much has to go where it is. I'm confident that it's plenty inboard of where a shock will need to go. That just leaves the piping to be determined. The output plumbing is fairly simple and won't interfere with suspension because.

So I think I'm going to make the bracket, take care of the output piping, Do my suspension, then put the intake wherever it fits and will suck in clean, cool air.

A vacuum pump would be neat but I don't know that it would be worth it... Unless my heat gets totally screwy, I won't do it. And I can wheel without heat. I'll cross that bridge some other time at a much, much later date.

 

[cmelo]

I'm sure it's a bit more complex than that...

-Mid 90's astro van hydroboost(more compact than mine with close to as much power)
-There are multiple stock hoses that can be used. I used chevy lines and carefully bent them to fit.
-I am 90% sure the mounting plate is drilled to fit your firewall already. You can just space it out from the firewall however you choose. The plate itself is a flat piece of steel. Some cut off the little notched piece in the center and make they're own little spacer/adapter. This is cool if you feel the need to clock the HB as well.
-The pedal push rod needs a bushing. Get it from home depot or lowes.
-Accumulators(the nitrogen filled cylinders that offer power assist when the engine is off) are interchangeable. If you put on a larger one like mine(mine gives me something like 7-8 fully assisted brake applications) you will thank yourself when your jeep dies on an incline.
-Master cylinders are the same as pretty much anything else. I might be going with one that has individual reservoirs for the front and back. There is a stock part for this but I forget.
-Your pump will obviously need to be from PSC since I don't think any stock pumps for xj/wj's or whatever put out enough to feed this.

All of this can probably be done for sub $100 with mostly new parts minus the pump(i'm sure you planned on needing it anyway).

...and yes it's worth it

 

[asp]

-Mid 90's astro van hydroboost(more compact than mine with close to as much power)
-There are multiple stock hoses that can be used. I used chevy lines and carefully bent them to fit.
-I am 90% sure the mounting plate is drilled to fit your firewall already. You can just space it out from the firewall however you choose. The plate itself is a flat piece of steel. Some cut off the little notched piece in the center and make they're own little spacer/adapter. This is cool if you feel the need to clock the HB as well.
-The pedal push rod needs a bushing. Get it from home depot or lowes.
-Accumulators(the nitrogen filled cylinders that offer power assist when the engine is off) are interchangeable. If you put on a larger one like mine(mine gives me something like 7-8 fully assisted brake applications) you will thank yourself when your jeep dies on an incline.
-Master cylinders are the same as pretty much anything else. I might be going with one that has individual reservoirs for the front and back. There is a stock part for this but I forget.
-Your pump will obviously need to be from PSC since I don't think any stock pumps for xj/wj's or whatever put out enough to feed this.

All of this can probably be done for sub $100 with mostly new parts minus the pump(i'm sure you planned on needing it anyway).

...and yes it's worth it

I declare this to be the most useful post Carmelo has ever made. Thanks man. I'll definitely be doing this at some point.

 

[billyjp2]

Bill thinks your jeep is neat. :guitar:

 

[ktm racer 419]

i propose: XXXX the supercharger. get this thing wheeling first

 

[foxwar71]

i propose: XXXX the supercharger. get this thing wheeling first

Whats that gunna do? Get this thing wheeling in 5 years instead of 6? :dunno:

 

[Boostwerks.com]

How well will a vacuum-assist brake booster work with 5+ psi of boost?

Since when are you using the brakes when under boost? (unless doing burnouts). Your brakes will be fine.

Also thought it was worth noting that my cruise control and HVAC systems work just fine with my turbo setup. The factory check valve seems to be enough for me with 8psi of boost.

 

[asp]

That's pretty neat info. Good to know. :thumbup:

 

[asp]

The conclusion of another several hours of staring at it and thinking is this:

Flip the M90 over so the output is on the bottom, move it up so that the top of it is level with the 710 cap and the pulley is centered over the AC bolt pattern. Move it forward so that the 4 grooves on the XJ belt are contacting the back 4 of the 6 grooves on the SC pulley (gets me another 1/4" of clearance at the dist cap). This configuration will give me more space with plumbing the SC output to the FMIC that I've been secretly brooding over. I'll likely purchase it from cxracing.com.

Here's the best picture I could take alone without any brackets to hold it in place.

The belt clears everything, gives me proper wrap angle without having to run extra idlers, and I should be able to use a stock XJ belt in the stock configuration.

Will take a better picture eventually. By then there should be metal holding the SC to the block

edit: yes, I checked to make sure the output clears all brackets. This config is also really good because It will give me a lot more room side to side in the engine bay so I will have plenty of design space for my coilover/airshock setup.

 

[asp]

Well, been busy with a lot of stuff and haven't really taken the time to make an update to the thread.

I cut and turned the collector flange on the ebay header. Still had to bend it quite a bit to get it to fit too and it's getting TIG'd. I'll do another test fit when I get it back.

I got some more rust repair stuff done and didn't take a picture of it. I plan on cutting a little more of the body off, unfortunately. Rust really blows and it's not worth my time to fix rust. I don't need a full body to wheel, and I already don't have one...

OSHA approved? :gee:

A Dana 70 with 68" WMS-WMS popped up on a local forum for $50. I had no info on what it was out of or what the internals might be, but I knew it would sell fast and for $50 it was a gamble I was willing to make. I lucked out - 35 spline stock shafts.

I've bought a fair amount of other parts, I just haven't taken pictures or mentioned it. Parts include a clutch that's rated for ~300 hp, an intermediate shaft for the doubler, a fair amount of steel, and a bunch of tools.

For highlights of the new tools, see here.

 

[foxwar71]

OSHA approved? :gee:

You needed a lift to pick that thing up? Wasnt it already proven I can lift that jeep up by myself?

 

[asp]

When it's on the floor after I dropped it, yes. And to do it in a controlled manner where I can put the stands back under while it's held up, even more of a yes.

 

[RCman]

OSHA approved? :gee:

Hmmm...

Rusty & Shiny.

 

[asp]

So, this isn't going to be a very interesting post, but it's what I've been up to.

I've been doing a lot of buying and not a lot of labor on it. Things I've bought recently (some already have been posted):

Dana 70 rear
1979 Dana 60 front
4X 2.5 SAW 16" travel air shocks
4X 2.0 SAW 4" travel air bumps
clutch that's good for 300 hp
ebay header that had to be modified to fit (more on that later)

As Carmelo so elequently put it, this is my expensive rolling pin collection.

I ran into a lot of rust, as previously mentioned, so I'm cutting more of the back of the cab off. Here is the world's worst cell phone picture of what I cut:

And in the process (oops)

I made a small tool and got the upper kingpins out of the front axle (alone). Whoever whines about that being such a hard job is either a sissy or needs a welder and a torch.

 

[5spd_xj]

jawsome!

 

[Gold Cobra]

I love that when you noticed a decent sized fire, your first reaction was to take a picture. Good choice.

 

[asp]

Thanks. In my defense, the only reason I was so care-free about it is that there is no headliner or fuel tank and nothing within at least a foot of the B pillar that is flammable.

I think it was actually my first time using a fire extinguisher for its intended purpose and not in a test scenario. Let's hope it's the last.

 

[cmelo]

I love that when you noticed a decent sized fire, your first reaction was to take a picture. Good choice.

Anthony always takes every opportunity to document something interesting that has happened in his life, as well as uninteresting.

 

[Dundy]

 

[MoparManiac]