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Need to do a gear swap, should I do lockers at the same time or?

Tony_SS

Tony_SS

NAXJA Supporting Vendor
Location
Washington MO
I need some guidance here. I am going to do a gear swap for larger tires and I need some opinions on if I should do lockers or what while I'm in there. Keep in mind, its a DD and we do get a fair amount of snow here. Right now its open front and back. Ideally selectables would be nice. If I would go that route, what you recommend? I have a D30 and 8.25. No abs. Let me know what you all think, I need to get this done. Thanks!
 
why pay labor twice? of course you should do a locker while you have it apart unless you absolutlely cant afford it. at which point i'd suggest waiting until you have all the $$ together to do it all.
i'm a big fan of simplicity. ARBs with the air lines and compressors work well but i'm just not a fan of anything with multiple sub-systems required. too many things to go wrong.
if you arent a moron on the skinny pedal when you wheel i suggest a good old Detroit in the rear and a mechanically-acutated selectable up front.
 
you have a really really nice jeep. but from the looks of it, you'll never get anywhere near full use out of selectables or auto lockers. I'd throw a limited slip in the rear or something and call it a day. or front and back if you can afford it/ find it necessary
 
Tony_SS said:
I need some guidance here. I am going to do a gear swap for larger tires and I need some opinions on if I should do lockers or what while I'm in there. Keep in mind, its a DD and we do get a fair amount of snow here. Right now its open front and back. Ideally selectables would be nice. If I would go that route, what you recommend? I have a D30 and 8.25. No abs. Let me know what you all think, I need to get this done. Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you set up and run gears on a normal carrier and then try to switch them over to a different carrier/locker, you are setting yourself up for problems. Most times when you try this, you get gears that whine and most likely are much less tolerant to stress.
 
If doing a full case locker.. Then yeah do it at same time as gears. If doing a drop-in autolocker then MEH, whenever you want.

If this a STREET mainly rig that see some snowy roads.. I would also suggest Limited slip rather than a locker, especially for the snow and ice.
 
Ok, once the gears are setup to change out the carrier only requires setting backlash. Pinion depth is done. IMHO do the lockers when you have it apart. If you can't or can only do one, do the rear as you have to set backlash via adjusters and a "tool". The front you can pull any time and throw a lunch box in and your adjustments won't change.
 
old_man said:
If you set up and run gears on a normal carrier and then try to switch them over to a different carrier/locker, you are setting yourself up for problems. Most times when you try this, you get gears that whine and most likely are much less tolerant to stress.
Click to expand...

where did you get this info?
 
in theory you should be able to swap gears from locker to open case withough even adjusting back lash
in reality this isnt very common or realistic

if a person reset gears to the exact gear pattern as they were previously broken in on then they should perform the same and have the same noise out put

in reality, its never the "exact same"
 
eflores said:
in theory you should be able to swap gears from locker to open case withough even adjusting back lash
in reality this isnt very common or realistic

if a person reset gears to the exact gear pattern as they were previously broken in on then they should perform the same and have the same noise out put

in reality, its never the "exact same"
Click to expand...

Here's how you do it. You take backlash readings before pulling the carrier, then you put the new carrier in and get the backlash back to where it was when you pulled it. You have to set the backlash, and if you put it back where it was you won't have issues as that's where the gears were broken into each other at. Generally though, if it's in spec, you'll be fine. But not adjusting backlash is just asking for trouble.
 
If you ever really need a locker, you'll find a limited slip doesn't cut it...

If it were me I would go with selectable air lockers. There isn't a selectable locker that couldn't suffer some kind of POTENTIAL failure... OX lockers are the only "mechanical" lockers I'm aware of (no electronics) but many say they are finicky due to the cable stretching? Electronic lockers are nice since you can use a bolt to engage the locker in a pinch, but I'm skittish about an electric servo sitting out there on my diff cover... There's a reason the majority of people running selectable lockers are running air actuated lockers - they work well.

With air lockers you can run pneumatic switches and ditch the electronic ones if you're worried about those. And always carry an air hose repair kit, obviously. If you're worried about the compressor run two or get crazy like me and have an auxiliary Shrader valve in your system where you can pressurize it with a small bike pump... But at the end of the day, if you are thoughtful when you do your instal, you won't need any of that - I never have.
 
I run ARBs front and rear with stainless braided lines run to them out of the ARB compressor.

the only leaks I have ever had are from breaking the front locker.

both lockers are more than 10 years old.
 
I would do a powertrax rear and only powertrax front if you plan on 33's or smaller, spicer carriers in the 30 aren't very strong (carry spare shafts)..
 
Tony_SS said:
I'm guessing by your location you haven't tried them in the snow?

I'm either looking at a new oem unit or auburn Lsd?
Click to expand...

I used to live in the V.I. when I originally set up my NAXJA profile, now I live in Chicago, where I see quite a bit of snow. The Truetracs have performed flawlessly. I chose these over others due to them being a clutchless design and thus not needing any type friction modifier in your gear oil. For the longest time, I debated running a full Detroit locker in the rear and a Truetrac in the front, but with my girlfriend driving the Jeep in snowy/icy conditions I feel much more comfortable having her driving with LSD front and rear. Here is an article regarding the Truetrac LSD
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/0810or-eaton-detroit-truetrac-limited-slip-install/
hope this helps
cpefy3
 
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