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Need help choosing a Long arm upgrade...

I know Frank wouldn't do that but I was just wondering all the reading I've been doing says it's awful...but I think its fine...haven't been in a situation where it unloads or would be able to tell if it is actually unloading or just doing its think to be honest
 
Johnnie Walker said:
This. If your suspension is properly setup, unloading is minimal/nonexistant.

Just set up your stuff right and that wont happen.
Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more.

Thats why Jeep uses a 4 link with track bar. And why NOT ONE purpose built for speed or crawling rig that is professionally built from the ground up will be built using a Y link / radius arm.

But it is cheaper and easier to build and install. I just dont know if you can say that makes it right?
 
Johnnie Walker, no disrespect, but your jeep is basically stock. you're not able to get your jeep in the situation where it would unload.
I've had radius arms, i now have a 3 link. i've wheeled the same exact trails frequently with both setups, and the radius arms most definitely unloaded more than the 3 link. That's not to say every 3 or 4 link is perfect, but generally they're better. I think the people who run radius arms without issue are wheeling somewhere that may not have the traction that we have out here, which may make it seem like it's not an issue.
 
RWKHausSupply said:
Thats why Jeep uses a 4 link with track bar. And why NOT ONE purpose built for speed or crawling rig that is professionally built from the ground up will be built using a Y link / radius arm.
Click to expand...

I'm not a big fan of radius arms...

but I have seen a shit-load of radius armed jeepspeeds and other go-fast cars.
 
Radius arms work, 3-4 links work better. Yes I've run both. For the money, go 3 link. If you have radius arms or score a great deal on them, wheel em. There's more than 1 way to get the job done, but some are better than others.
 
You find them on JS because they have to be a off the shelf system, or its a sponsored rig that has to run what someone gave them. You will Not find a purpose built (basically a buggy, either with skin or without) with a radius arm thats made to crawl/race.
 
zachandandy said:
Radius arms work, 3-4 links work better. Yes I've run both. For the money, go 3 link. If you have radius arms or score a great deal on them, wheel em. There's more than 1 way to get the job done, but some are better than others.
Click to expand...


amen...
 
I have radius arms. I haven't unloaded onto my roof yet, but if that happens, I will post the video here.

In the meantime, I will enjoy my smoooooove ride and try to stay out of your way on the trail. :spin1:
 
RWKHausSupply said:
You find them on JS because they have to be a off the shelf system, or its a sponsored rig that has to run what someone gave them. You will Not find a purpose built (basically a buggy, either with skin or without) with a radius arm thats made to crawl/race.
Click to expand...

I've seen quite a few buggies with radius arms....

shit, Avery's buggy had them at goatfest... not sure if he's changed them since, but it does pretty damn well.


I agree with your initial point though. a properly designed 3 or 4 link will do much better, and radius arms are teh ghey anyway.
 
224027_513740944134_558128_n_zpsacb9d591.jpg
 
Besides a ~$200 difference. What sets the RK and Clayton 3 link apart?

I know with Clayton they recommend 6.5" of lift.
 
well i guess I will have to look into it....with this whole build going on I can't afford a 3 link kit....maybe if I can do something with my radius arms
 
one thing you never find in these threads is any actual technical fact that any specific lift kit will cause this so called (unloading) you can have what is called wheel recession, is when the front end of your vehicle is forced upward when the front tires contact a ledge or rock or traction..but this is do to poor link angles mostly not link design type. links need to be parallel to start. if they are at a angle to start then they will continue to increase that angle "hence lifting" also this is related to "anti-squat etc" The real advantage of the 3 link type is it will reduce or eliminate axle bind during articulation depending on the application that's it.
so for that reason it can perform better due to less or no binding. of course it depends on how much articulation you have to start with. with my MJ I can articulate all I need with the system I have and the binding does not stop that in the range I have to work with so its a moot point. and for competition rigs that have been brought up so much in this post..they also most often use a suck down winch on their suspension..so it don't matter how many links you use.. depending how you ring is setup and what level you use it there will be no perfect (best) system for everyone. so spend 3k or more on a system if that make you feel better. but it don't maker it better. and just saying a system "unloads" is not a technical term but somebody made up to describe the affect ..its not what its called and it (Does and will) apply to all suspension systems... all go research suspension systems and functions and you will understand how they work. and how complicated it really is.
 
Last edited:
Here tell ya what....

http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4linkcalcv15html/index.html

You all figure it out. Cause you'all are the geniuses that need to be building radius arms for the race teams that are over thinking stuff. Cause a radius arm is just fine...

And just wheel what ya got. But why spend $ on a setup that can be better less?
 
Comanchedude said:
one thing you never find in these threads is any actual technical fact that any specific lift kit will cause this so called (unloading) you can have what is called wheel recession, is when the front end of your vehicle is forced upward when the front tires contact a ledge or rock or traction..but this is do to poor link angles mostly not link design type. links need to be parallel to start. if they are at a angle to start then they will continue to increase that angle "hence lifting" also this is related to "anti-squat etc" The real advantage of the 3 link type is it will reduce or eliminate axle bind during articulation depending on the application that's it.
so for that reason it can perform better due to less or no binding. of course it depends on how much articulation you have to start with. with my MJ I can articulate all I need with the system I have and the binding does not stop that in the range I have to work with so its a moot point. and for competition rigs that have been brought up so much in this post..they also most often use a suck down winch on their suspension..so it don't matter how many links you use.. depending how you ring is setup and what level you use it there will be no perfect (best) system for everyone. so spend 3k or more on a system if that make you feel better. but it don't maker it better. and just saying a system "unloads" is not a technical term but somebody made up to describe the affect ..its not what its called and it (Does and will) apply to all suspension systems... all go research suspension systems and functions and you will understand how they work. and how complicated it really is.
Click to expand...


weight transfer is not the same as suspension unloading.

also, we're not talking about what happens when you hit a ledge. we're talking about when you are on a really steep climb, the front suspension unloads. and yes, that is a technical term, and yes it is one of the drawbacks of radius arms. they unload more than a 3-link or 4-link.
 
rockclimber said:
weight transfer is not the same as suspension unloading.

also, we're not talking about what happens when you hit a ledge. we're talking about when you are on a really steep climb, the front suspension unloads. and yes, that is a technical term, and yes it is one of the drawbacks of radius arms. they unload more than a 3-link or 4-link.
Click to expand...

Really? show were any suspension design configurations shows that the difference in link type alone determines the rate of the "unloading' there is no such information, what you calling "unloading" is not due to the difference of 3 link and radius/y-link

. that is why pro rock crawlers use suck down winch , and limit straps ..all front long arms system can extend/droop beyond useful limits its not related to the type. its related to the transfer of weight and traction, mount locations ect.. main advantage a 3 link has it it will bind less. nothing to do with the "unloading" that's a result of general suspension setup.

here is one link for info..while it may a bit old its informative..i like this part it on you subject.. the most common agreed upon method of design is to always keep the lower links as flat to the ground as possible. This will help eliminate any strange jacking and unloading of the links while in hairy situations. A steep angled link can have some strange effects on a vehicle; sometimes the axle will walk under the vehicle while on a steep climb. This can be a scary experience, as the axle continues to climb it pushes under the vehicle....sound like what you saying..its not type is angle...

http://www.4wheelunderground.com/Suspension-411.html
 
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