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My build

I would not weld the spiders on the front if you ever drive it on the street... unless you use a vacuum disconnect front axle, or get hubs for it.
 
THe other axles did not work out, but I will be picking up a 1974 Ford Dana 60 rear on tues for $50. Sounds like it only needs wheel cylinders. Whatcha think.

I have done some searching and it sounds pretty good to me.
 
I picked a Dana 60 out of a 1974 Ford 250 with 4 doors (guy had the truck it came out of next to the axle). I only needs wheel cylinders and hard brake lines as of now.

I am still compemplating my plans with it. I am thinking I am going to keep the 30 splines go 5.38's on 37's and weld the spiders (This way I can later upgrade to a 35 spline without putting too much money into it). From what I have read and seen that shouldn't be a problem.

The drums are huge and I am updrading to the Wj booster and master cylinder so I don't think I should have a problem stopping this thing.

Is there another booster and cylinder that would work better and will the drums be good or do I need disks in the rear?

Probably going to get rid of the leafs and do coils in the rear with a 4 link with a truss on the 60.

For the front I am looking at getting another Dana 60. I would preferablly like to go with the 60 out of a 1979 F350, but I am trying to see what else is out there as these are hard to come by. I will be doing a 3-link on the front too. I don't see a problem with a 60 on 37's.

Going to keep the stock 231 and drive train for now and plate the whole frame.

This will be very slow moving as I only have about $1500 to put into this for now, just married (but she loves to wheel and told me to build it so we won't break EVERYTIME), and I have my first child on the way.

I have read the Billvista Dana 60 bible (bookmarked) and I am starting to learn more everyday and I will continue to read builds/tech info and whatever else I can get a hold of, but any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
i have a '79 f350 d60 in the front of my red p.o.s. on 39.5's w/ 5.38's, it is gross overkill. i love it. the brakes are friggin' huge! i use a 14 bolt rear though.
i just installed the ruffstuff frame stiffeners & will make my own front & rear 3/16 plate stiffeners to cover the rest of the unibody. like you i am also thinking of 4 linking the rear. mine uses radius arms in front though, but i may build a 3 link set someday.
 
Started to work on the D60. You can see that the Driver's drum need some work.
DSCF0169.jpg


Took a look at the diff. Looks pretty good
DSCF0175.jpg


Took out the shafts and . . .
DSCF0176.jpg

DSCF0180.jpg

DSCF0181.jpg

Yep they're only 16 spline.

From what I have researced the shafts are the same diameter as the 30 spline type so I can put some of those in. Also IIRC the 16 spline shafts are the strength, but the splines are slighlty weaker because the load is more on a smaller area (less splines). If I can find a front that has matching gears I may keep the 16 spline for now and weld the spiders until more money comes a-flowing. If I put the 30 spline shafts in I will get new gears and spool.

I started to take apart the rear drums and the brakes are in good shape, but covered in brake fluid from the bad wheel cylinder. I picked up two new wheel cylinders so they will be going in tomorrow.

Any advice or comments?
 
Haven't gotten a lot done, but here we go. After taking apart the drums and brakes I replaced both inner wheel berring seals, greased the wheel berrings, and replaced the wheel cylinders. I put everything back together and I noticed that it has to different drums, the driver's side has a lip that goes over the backing plate while the passenger's side has a lip that just goes up and not over. Is that normal?

Since the Driver's side rear quater was pretty bent up I decided to cut and fold both sides. It's not pretty, and still needs to be welded and sealed.
DSCF0190.jpg

DSCF0189.jpg


Threw the 60 under the jeep to see how it would sit. I was surprised that the perches on the 60 aren't wider then the leafs, but they are gonna get cut off anyways. Still needs better adjustments and measuring but here is a basic idea of the stance.
DSCF0191.jpg

DSCF0192.jpg

DSCF0193.jpg


Yes the garage is cluttered and filthy. Any other comments or advice?
 
94xjstud said:
DSCF0193.jpg


Yes the garage is cluttered and filthy. Any other comments or advice?
Click to expand...

have a garage sale?
buy a broom?
get one of those home depot day laborer guys to clean the garage? :gee:

j/k, looks like a good start. are you leaving the drums or swapping to discs?
 
I actually use most of that stuff in the garage.
What is this "broom" you speak of?

I will be keeping the drums for now to save on cost as the brakes are in good condition, but will most likely upgrade later down the line.
 
I am possibly buying a HP Dana 60 from a 96 Ford. Its has a matching 8 lug pattern as the rear. I understand that it is has balljoints, but I am not worried about that. But if I read the 60 bible correctly the pinion is about 3.5" to the driver's side, I don't think that this will be a problem with setting up the coils, but I jsut wanted to know anyone has any personal experience.

Also I cut off the old spring perches and got some new perches for it. I don't have an angle finder so I was going to weld them so them so the pinion will be slightly above parallel. If I went out and got an angle finder I need to be about 11* right? I'm on about 5" lift. Also they will be welded about 6 1/4" from the drums backing plate. Will it be a big deal if I am off 1/8" on one side? Sound about right?

Advice/comments are welcome
 
Buy an angle finder - well worth the $10, you will save that money on not having to buy shims for the leaf springs and it can be used for other stuff.

1/8" is not gonna kill you, measure as carefully as you can and it should be ok.
 
94xjstud said:
I am possibly buying a HP Dana 60 from a 96 Ford. Its has a matching 8 lug pattern as the rear. I understand that it is has balljoints, but I am not worried about that. But if I read the 60 bible correctly the pinion is about 3.5" to the driver's side, I don't think that this will be a problem with setting up the coils, but I jsut wanted to know anyone has any personal experience.

Also I cut off the old spring perches and got some new perches for it. I don't have an angle finder so I was going to weld them so them so the pinion will be slightly above parallel. If I went out and got an angle finder I need to be about 11* right? I'm on about 5" lift. Also they will be welded about 6 1/4" from the drums backing plate. Will it be a big deal if I am off 1/8" on one side? Sound about right?

Advice/comments are welcome
Click to expand...

no personal experience, but I've been doing a lot of reading on the subject lately as I plan on doing much the same swap with a 88-91 HP D60.

from reading, my plan is to remove about 1/2 of the cast leaf perch on the driver side of the pumpkin. this should provide enough room to add a coil above the tube, and link mounts to the back of the tube (I plan on having the shocks mount on the link tabs)

I didn't find too many write ups here, but pirate has quite a few on the subject.

hope that helps
 
Complete Dana 60 with 5.13's, open carrier, brand new brake pads. $800, alittle higher then I wanted to pay, but it is still a smokin deal and I wont have to regear it.
DSCF0297.jpg

DSCF0298.jpg

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Also picked up a Wj brake booster and wheel cylinder
DSCF0313.jpg
 
$800 for a ball joint D60 is a lot higher than I would pay. Even with 5.13s.

I got my '88 kingpin HP60 for $200.

They must be a lot harder to come by out there.
 
MoparManiac said:
$800 for a ball joint D60 is a lot higher than I would pay. Even with 5.13s.

I got my '88 kingpin HP60 for $200.

They must be a lot harder to come by out there.
Click to expand...

The cheapest I have found in my area was 750 and that was without gears and in way worse condition. I think I got a good deal on it.

I am planning on running about 37's on it and I am still deciding what to do about highsteer. There are a few (like 2) companies that do highsteer kits for ball joint knuckles so I might to that; then there is a guy on pirate (MadMike) who is doing some interesting welding on the knuckle that looks promising; and the knuckles on this axle has the steering arm quite high for stock as in abvoe the center line of the axle tube so I might not do anything.

My new 99 durango steering box showed up today too
DSCF0315.jpg


So I started the swap, but with 10 mins . . .
DSCF0314.jpg

Pitman arm 1, pitman arm puller 0.

I will continue to put lots of PB blaster on it, hammer it and get a new/stronger puller.
 
x2 on the combo's of heat + puller + hammer & PB blaster before hand

heat the arm up, put the puller on and tighten it up, then a few raps with the hammer to loosen the arm.
re-tighten the puller, and raps with the hammer...
repeat until the arm slips off easily.
 
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