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How To: Build your own 4.0L turbo Cummins (Beware...170+ pics)

What are the T's from your intake manifold from? Your intercooler is a closed system with no way for pressure to escape, so how do you account for the hot water expanding and contracting? How hard was the AEM system to tune? I am working on a very similar project, mine wouldn't be intercooled, but I was planning on using Megasquirt to tune it instead, but the AEM hardware is very competitively priced for my goals. Can you explain your PCV system more? Do you see a lot of oil getting blown out on turboed applications? How close can the turbo/hotside get to things before you start getting nervous?
 
What are the T's from your intake manifold from? Your intercooler is a closed system with no way for pressure to escape, so how do you account for the hot water expanding and contracting? How hard was the AEM system to tune? I am working on a very similar project, mine wouldn't be intercooled, but I was planning on using Megasquirt to tune it instead, but the AEM hardware is very competitively priced for my goals. Can you explain your PCV system more? Do you see a lot of oil getting blown out on turboed applications? How close can the turbo/hotside get to things before you start getting nervous?

I think your asking where the Ts are for the exhaust manifold are from? They are schedule 40 304L stainless plumbing fittings which are used in many different industries.

The intercooler system really has no need for an expansion tank. The system unless the pump fails or gets blocked will always maintain a temperature that is well below any boiling point. Any small expansion due to heat is easily accounted for in the lines themselves. I havn't calculated it out, but the expansion with this little of a volumn and little of a temperature change should be negligable.

The AEM is very easy to tune once you learn the features and understand how it operates. The part throttle and low load fuel tuning is the trickiest as you have to balance the Narrow band sensor output along with your fuel table so the factory ECU doesn't pull out the full your trying to add. Mega squirt IMO = a huge nightmare. Especially if your working with an OBD2 vehicle, it's better to have the factory ECU maintain control as much as possible (can bus systems, diagnostic features...ect). Don't get me wrong though. It can be very capable, but most people will find them selves trying to track down bugs most of the time instead of enjoying their new found power.

The PCV system with a boosted vehicle is almost obsolete. This is honestly one area that a lot of people try to make much more complicated than it needs to be. The system simply needs a means to evacuate any built up crank case pressure to the atmosphere. Unless there is extreme blow by, you shouldn't have any major oil build up. My can has just a little residue is all even after 1000+ miles.

As far as how close the components can get...thats really a tough question. In all honesty it really depends on what the component really is. Obviously the turbine of my turbo is very close to the factory fuel line, and other components. It was kind of a common sense decision to heat wrap these. The best thing to do is wrap what you can, and just keep an eye on things for the first couple times you drive it. You can pick up a infrared heat gauge for pretty cheap, and just look for signs that components are getting uncomfortably hot.

Tayln, I had a guy called "T-bone" who has a shop in California coat it for me. I can't remember what his shops called though. I'll see if I can dig up some receipts and get back too ya. :)
 
Yeah, I can't think of any way to get around that intake tube issue... everything else is amazing. The only idea I have that *might* work is a flattened tube - I know I have seen oval cross section exhaust tubing (with round to oval adapters available) for solving problems like this with exhaust, maybe something equivalent is available in stainless.
There are many suppliers of oval stainless tubing
http://www.burnsstainless.com/304ovalsstubing.aspx
http://drgas.mybisi.com/products/oval-tubing-and-bends

For the exhaust, why didn't you use 321 stainless or Inconel if you were so concerned about cracking?
 
There are many suppliers of oval stainless tubing
http://www.burnsstainless.com/304ovalsstubing.aspx
http://drgas.mybisi.com/products/oval-tubing-and-bends

For the exhaust, why didn't you use 321 stainless or Inconel if you were so concerned about cracking?

The ovalized tubing really wouldn't help the intake tube dilema. If it was a big deal I could have welded a 90deg turn down on the compressor housing inlet and used stainless bends for the rest. However, the silicon tube was cheap and is working just fine.

Who said I was "so" concerned about cracking? The sch40 304 will last a very long time. I decided not to coat or wrap it because I didn't feel it was neccesary when I can protect the surrounding components from heat soak without reducing the life of the manifold. Simple as that.

Have you ever priced 321 or inconel? I could build almost 4 of these manifolds for the price of one 321 manifold. 321 or inconel is great when:
a. Price is of no concern
b. Your concerned about weight.

When is this going to be available as a kit?

I will becoming a NAXJA vender within a couple weeks. Manifolds and accessories will be available soon. As far as full kits I can't really say.
 
So my floor is pretty much covered in drool now...... Extremely clean work, I only wish this would work with a Renix (could it?), and I had the money to buy one from you.
 
wow man............awesome! So what kind of initial pricing on stuff. You can pm me.
 
If I had this much invested in my Jeep... It would be a mall crawler... Id spend all my time showing up ricers. :eyes:

Well, I've never seen it on a trail so its a mall crawler! :D
 
Bryson said:
4. Check your gaskets! The Felpro manifold gasket I had purchased didn’t match my exhaust ports even though it was the specific PN for a 99 model year. A couple minutes with the die grinder though and it was all AOK


Ive ran into this problem quite a few times with the Fel-Pro gasket for the 4.0. The one you used, is for the '00 and up, with the cast iron exh manifold. They definitely have it listed wrong, as up to '99, you use the '91+ HO gasket.
 
It always cracks me up when kids get on here talking about how they are going to turbo their XJs or asking "What does it take?" This thread is what it takes! We should forever point them to this thread and say, "Can you do all this custom fab?". I know my opinion means nothing here, but I nominate this thread to be a sticky!
 
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Ive ran into this problem quite a few times with the Fel-Pro gasket for the 4.0. The one you used, is for the '00 and up, with the cast iron exh manifold. They definitely have it listed wrong, as up to '99, you use the '91+ HO gasket.

Thanks man! I figured something wasn't right. Did you end up getting an AEM FI/C for your project?

It always cracks me up when kids get on here talking about how they are going to turbo their XJs or asking "What does it take?" This thread is what it takes! We should forever point them to this thread and say, "Can you do all this custom fab?". I know my opinion means nothing here, but I nominate this thread to be a sticky!

lol. Thanks Robert. (I agree) :shhh:

No dyno time this week either. We are however going camping and some mild wheeling. I'll have some pics and feedback from how she performs in 4 low :)
 
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