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How To: Build your own 4.0L turbo Cummins (Beware...170+ pics)

sometimes i hate the fact that my work blocks photobucket. can't wait to look at this later tonight.
 
That is some seriously well done fab work right there.
 
Well, no dyno time this week. I'm going to see if I can make an appointment for next week.

I realized that I had forgotten to load the pics of my engine mount mod as well. I added some 1/4" plate to the factory drivers side bracket to get me an additional bolt hole. IMO, the drivers side bracket has the flaw of only having 3 bolts. If they we're symetrical it wouldn't be that big of a deal, but the spacing allows the bracket to flex under load. This little addition of the mount should greatly increase it's strength.

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Also a little teaser of whats next... ;)

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This has to be one of the cleanest fab threads I have ever seen. I love it. That exhaust manifold is something that belongs on the wall next to the other fine art...

I think perhaps the only thing I don't like is that flex air duct going to the air filter from the turbo, and I honestly have no idea what to suggest doing instead, it looks real tight in there.

:05of5:
 
Congratulations on the turbo setup and being one of the few to pull it off. Too many people talk about it and never follow through, I really hope you do inspire some to try. I can’t wait to see the numbers.
 
That looks amazing.

My buddy has an srt-4, (even though it's nothing) the turbo makes me smile.

Sweet setup.
 
The manifold does look sexy, although I'm worried about the geometry of the thing. 90* exhaust path at the collector has me scratching my head at how it's going to perform. I guess we're gonna find out.
 
Inspiring build. You have me in awe. Great job man...


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What is this from? Is this a cast plumbing pipe elbow?

Also, did the AEM ECU harness make the unit pretty much completely plug and play?
 
Definitely not a plumbing elbow - that would be black iron and would likely have a socket on one end for another section of pipe to feed into. That looks more like it was intended for use on engine air ducting.
 
Like you had mentioned Kastein, the intake tube could be a little different. However, the clearances are so tight that a stainless 3" intake tube that I was going to build would be vibrating and rattling against everything. The silicon tube that I decided to use should work just fine and last a very long time.

As for the collector at the manifold, there isn't one. A collector in definition is a collection of pipes that have the runners seperated until they are merged together (hence the term Merge collector). This manifold is commonly refered to as a "log" manifold in that it doesn't really have seperate runners. Each cylinder simply contributes to the pressure in the log. Since turbo's work primarily off of the kinetic energy of heat and pressure there is really nothing wrong with having a simple 90 deg flange at the turbo. There ARE however benefits of having a tubular manifold with a low angle collectors for very high reving motors where the exhaust gas velocity starts to come into play as well as they can sometimes reach the speed of sound! Obviously once that happens, flow hits a brick wall and the engine falls on it's face. A tubular manifold will help maintain that velocity all the way to the turbo. I wouldn't really consider the AMC 6 in this engine category ;) I hope that makes sense.
 
Yeah, I can't think of any way to get around that intake tube issue... everything else is amazing. The only idea I have that *might* work is a flattened tube - I know I have seen oval cross section exhaust tubing (with round to oval adapters available) for solving problems like this with exhaust, maybe something equivalent is available in stainless.
 
Those elbows are specificly built for turbo fabrication. They are made of aluminum which are typically welded to either intercooler end tanks or straight to the outlet of the compressor section of the turbo. As you can see on my intercooler I had welded one to the end of the inlet to make the charge piping a little easier.

You are correct about the patch harness. Once the FIC harness is soldered into the patch harness it simply splices between the factory ECU harness plugs and the ECU. The only other wires that need to be installed are the wideband 02 input (if needed) or the internal datalog switch input (if needed) so it's entirely possible to make it 100% plug and play.

Another benefit is that it makes diagnosing MUCH easier if you happen to mess up the wiring. Simply remove it from the vehicle and plug back in the factory harness! You won't be stranded while you try and figure out the issue.
 
i love the cleanness of this build and the attention to detail. The only things that bother me a little bit is that you went with a wrap instead of having the exaust piping and manifold ceramic coated. With the time and effort to make this such a great looking and working build why not go one more step and have this done? not busting balls here or anything just wondering.

again great job.:greensmok
 
As for the collector at the manifold, there isn't one. A collector in definition is a collection of pipes that have the runners seperated until they are merged together (hence the term Merge collector). This manifold is commonly refered to as a "log" manifold in that it doesn't really have seperate runners. Each cylinder simply contributes to the pressure in the log. Since turbo's work primarily off of the kinetic energy of heat and pressure there is really nothing wrong with having a simple 90 deg flange at the turbo. There ARE however benefits of having a tubular manifold with a low angle collectors for very high reving motors where the exhaust gas velocity starts to come into play as well as they can sometimes reach the speed of sound! Obviously once that happens, flow hits a brick wall and the engine falls on it's face. A tubular manifold will help maintain that velocity all the way to the turbo. I wouldn't really consider the AMC 6 in this engine category ;) I hope that makes sense.

Makes sense to me. I'm no expert, I'll be the first to admit.

Thanks for the 'splanation.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
Like I had mentioned before, I decided against the coating of the manifold because I would rather have it dicipate heat under low load and protect the surrounding components from soak instead. Wrapping or coating will reduce the life of the stainless as it will hold onto more of the heat resulting in more expansion/contraction than what it would without. In most builds I try to do everything I can without having to coat the manifold. The exhaust components however I will wrap if they are uncomfortably close to the surrounding components, and this case is no different. Especially with the fuel line, vaccum line, WB sensor wiring, and shifter cable all right next to the down pipe, I most definetly was going to wrap it. The only reason I didn't get it coated is that I don't have a local source for doing it. I wasn't going to pay for rediculous shipping charges just for the DP to get coated. I also beleive that wrapping is a more effective way at preventing heat soak. Ceramic coating just typically delays the heat from escaping. I've seen coated manifolds still get red hot. It just takes longer, and doesn't really prevent the infrared heat waves from escaping.

I had the turbo manifold in my race car coated however to improve spool response (time attack road race crx).

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