How do the alloy axle manu compare (Superior, Warn, Yukon, Dutchman, Moser, etc)?

[Roxtar]

Why do you like the unpressurized grease feature? I think I greased my OX u-joints without removing the tire. It is very easy though to break the needle grease fitting attachment on the gun. How much are the Jantz joints? Still around $70 a piece? I didn't think they were still being made? So the Jantz are the same 4340 alloy as the Yukon Super Joints? I thought they were just 760 u-joints with bronze sleeves instead of the needle bearings in the caps.

After having the OX u-joints for a little bit, I really like them. I just wish I had the 2nd generation ones that have grease fittings on each cap rather then having to grease the fitting in the center of the body. They are fully rebuileable and easy to work on. They are totally a different direction in u-joint design by not having snap rings and instead having an internal trunion retainer. They are like a puzzle and have a # of pieces.

By greasing these you not only fill the caps with grease like all greasable joints, you also fill a small spring loaded cylinder with grease. This constantly forces grease into the joints. It's like greasing them every day.
All the Ox joints I've seen need the axles removed to grease them.
As for them being bronze sleeved 760s, I think you're confusing them with Longfields. The Jantz/Yukon Superjoints are completely machined out of a block of 4340 and they're every bit as nice as CTMs. They have no sleeves and are $270/pair.

 

[CRASH]

Interesting, I have hammered and hammered and hammered on my 31 spline Dutchmans. To the point of breaking 2 housings and an ARB. Never so much as a twisted spline.

BTW, if your housing is bent, the constant deflection load on a shaft will eventually work harden it, and it will explode. Lots of road miles only increases this effect.

Ok, maybe I'm comparing apples to oranges here but, it speaks for their quality control and product (in my opinion) here's the story: I own an early Bronco (as well as a built Toyota p/u and a fairly stock '96 XJ) well, I had a D/L equipped 28 spline 9" rearend that had an appetite for rear axle bearings, they were replaced so many times that the keepers wouldn't stay on the axles anymore and the bearings would work loose eventually (the housings (2) weren't bent either) so, I ordered some new, custom made, high dollar (over $400 for the pair) alloy, tapered roller bearing 28 spline (since I had a 28 spline Detroit) shafts. Well, I ran them for about a year and their 1st trip over the Rubicon (my second) the driver's side shaft literally explodes at the splines in the Little Sluice while idiling in low range (NP435= 6.69 1st gear x 2.33 Dana 20 x 4.11 axle on 35s= conservative gearing) disassemble the third (to get the broken chunk out) and change the broken shaft to a well used (and twisted!) borrowed stocker, when I get home I call them and they tell me I've got too low of gearing, D/L too big a tire....blah, blah, blah so I give them the benefit of the doubt and order (stupid me) a replacement (another almost $200!). Following year, Rubicon, Little Sluice can't get through because, apparently I broke the passenger side shaft before I even got there (didn't even hear it this time) so I drove the rest of the trail (and home) with a broken shaft because I didn't want to tear it apart again (pouring rain). When I got home, I took it all apart (luckly my D/L didn't get ruined) to find out the "new" shaft is severely twisted and was close to breaking so, I stick in my old stockers with tack welded on keepers, throw the Dutchmans in the trash and drive it that way for awhile (daily driver) until my 31 spline Warn full floater came in (paid $475 through a friend at Dick Cepek) and that's the way it is today. Sorry, about the long post but, I still get really mad when ever I hear or see mention of Dutchman Motor Sports. By the way, I gave my old shafts to a buddy of mine and he carries them for spares (they held up way better than DMS's alloy garbage....not even twisted)......P.S. I drive with extreme finnese and don't hammer my trucks!........Hans

 

[Roxtar]

Also, I believe Currie uses all Dutchman shafts in their axles.

 

[Mike L]

Also, I believe Currie uses all Dutchman shafts in their axles.

Not true.................

-Mike

 

[Roxtar]

Not true.................

-Mike

I know they do, or have, used them.

 

[Big Red]

Oatmeal, I never had Dutchman shafts, but believe me Crash does beat on his stuff and had thoroughly tested his axle shafts. I think your biggest problem is throwing $ at 28 spline axle shafts with 35" tires eventhough you had a 9" axle that can take 31, 33, 35, or even 40 spline axle shafts.

 

[VegasAnthony]

CTMs are like $160-175/ea and the 760 Spicers are about $22/ea. All the manufactures void the warranty if the u-joint takes out the axle I believe. Is the Longfield good enough to hold up? I think they are about $75/ea I believe. The OX is also a player, but the company seems to move around alot and are hard to get cust serv I hear.

Troy

longfiields are $75 each??

where

best I found is $135 each

so who has the best prices on yukon shafts for a D30??

I NEED LINKS FELLAS CASUE IM READY TO ORDER :exclamati :laugh3:

 

[IntrepidXJ]

longfiields are $75 each??

where

best I found is $135 each

so who has the best prices on yukon shafts for a D30??

I NEED LINKS FELLAS CASUE IM READY TO ORDER :exclamati :laugh3:

longfield doesn;t make the modified 760's anymore. he now has a new joint made from 300m.....which looks like a pretty good joint to me (and will probably be what I get next, if I ever break one of the old longfields I am running).

the old longfields used to run for $80 each. mine have held up great so far.

 

[IntrepidXJ]

well, since i said "good joint" a lot in my last post :greensmok

:laugh2:

 

[VegasAnthony]

longfield doesn;t make the modified 760's anymore. he now has a new joint made from 300m.....which looks like a pretty good joint to me (and will probably be what I get next, if I ever break one of the old longfields I am running).

the old longfields used to run for $80 each. mine have held up great so far.

Ok that makes sense..


another option is the JE Reel joints ..no warranty questions
youi break it it gets replaced no questions asked..althouigh they are needle bearings

 

[David Taylor]

The Jantz/Yukon Superjoints are completely machined out of a block of 4340 and they're every bit as nice as CTMs. They have no sleeves and are $270/pair.

I have a hard time believing anything with the name "Yukon"on it is anywhere close to what CTM puts out.

 

[Roxtar]

I have a hard time believing anything with the name "Yukon"on it is anywhere close to what CTM puts out.

Yukon didn't design them.
Yukon doesn't make them.
Carl Jantz did.
They just paid for the rights to market them.
Judge for yourself.
http://www.jantz4x4.com/products/jantzjoint/JantzjointvsOEM.jpg

http://www.jantz4x4.com/products/jantzjoint/jantzjoint.html

 

[Oatmeal]

Oatmeal, I never had Dutchman shafts, but believe me Crash does beat on his stuff and had thoroughly tested his axle shafts. I think your biggest problem is throwing $ at 28 spline axle shafts with 35" tires eventhough you had a 9" axle that can take 31, 33, 35, or even 40 spline axle shafts.

The funny (well, not really, funny) thing is I beat the crap out of my stock shafts offroad and on the street (tire barking shifts on 35s have to be hard on shafts) and never even so much as twisted the splines. I continued this antisocial behavior with my full floater and broke three hubs before going to drive flanges. What I'm saying is, for the kind of money I spent, I would have expected them to be at least as strong as my stock shafts! It was their attitude that pissed me off the most....."No way could it have been our product it's the way your truck is set up, the gearing, the locker the way you drive........" Once bitten (in my case twice bitten) twice shy! That's my experience with them and if you've had good luck with them, then that's great but, like I said before, they'll never again, get my money or recommendation.... P.S. I would have gotten 31 spline shafts had I already NOT had a 28 spline Detroit. When I went to the 31 spline Warn floater I found out it was simply a matter of changing out the 28 spline drivers (side gears) to 31 spline versions. It was a (expensive) learning experience. Oh, and again, the housings weren't bent........Hans

 

[Oatmeal]

Me, again. A little example of just how strong stock 28 spline shafts are: I don't know how familiar you guys are with the early Bronco world but, a guy by the name of J.R. Coots (may he rest in peace) invented the "Cold Duck" double transfer case for Broncos. His Bronco had a warmed over 351W, C-4 auto, doubler (stock 2.46 X 4.88) and 4.88 r/p on 35s running stock 28 spline shafts! I wheeled with this guy over some of the gnarliest trails of the western Sierras and I was amazed at the kind of abuse they endured. Just something to think about. Ok, I've hijacked this thread long enough. Sorry..........Hans

 

[Big Red]

Me, again. A little example of just how strong stock 28 spline shafts are: I don't know how familiar you guys are with the early Bronco world but, a guy by the name of J.R. Coots (may he rest in peace) invented the "Cold Duck" double transfer case for Broncos. His Bronco had a warmed over 351W, C-4 auto, doubler (stock 2.46 X 4.88) and 4.88 r/p on 35s running stock 28 spline shafts! I wheeled with this guy over some of the gnarliest trails of the western Sierras and I was amazed at the kind of abuse they endured. Just something to think about. Ok, I've hijacked this thread long enough. Sorry..........Hans

That makes me feel extra good about my alloy 35 spline 9" axle shafts. :laugh3: The auto helps out a lot I guess and being able to idle through stuff with all that gearing, not having to floor the gas pedal and use momentum really helps too.