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home built long arms

I'm diggin these pringles I got goin here... Sour cream and onion
 
I'm not too keen on patater chips.... I'm more of a dorito guy myself...
 
now I just need to buy this stuff and get welding!

anything I need to watch out for?
 
Midgets with machine guns...

And shipping charges..
 
tayman said:
now I just need to buy this stuff and get welding!

anything I need to watch out for?
You need to buy bushing cradles from JKS or Rock Logic,they have a step machined into them.Go buy your bushings now and you will know why!
p_ogs974_975.jpg
 
Midgets with machine guns...

And shipping charges..

I'm more worried about the midgets...


You need to buy bushing cradles from JKS or Rock Logic,they have a step machined into them.Go buy your bushings now and you will know why!

thanks. wanna explain it though?
 
just out of curiosity..... is there any big downside to modifying the stock uca's to be the radius uca?
 
tayman said:
just out of curiosity..... is there any big downside to modifying the stock uca's to be the radius uca?
If your going to do that much work why not just make new ones
 
tayman said:
thanks. wanna explain it though?
You need to buy bushing cradles from JKS or Rock Logic,they have a step machined into them.Go buy your bushings now and you will know why!
 
so you're saying that it has a lip...
 
red_01_xj said:
If your going to do that much work why not just make new ones

good question... I guess you'd just call it laziness...:wierd:
 
ok, I know this thread is dead now, but What would be a good inner diameter and wall thickness for the lower arms? I found some material for the uppers at my welding class. it's 1"ID X 3/16wall and I believe it's DOM. there is about 3 feet of this, so that'll work for the uppers. I couldn't find anything for the lowers though. so it looks like I'll have to buy some.

Also, is there an optimal length for the arms to be? both upper and lower?

One more question. I'm planning on using the 2.5in Johnny Joints at the frame, and stock bushings at the axle, but what about making the upper arms adjustable? What would e a decent economical joint? I AM on a budget, so keep that in mind.

thanks.
 
tayman said:
ok, I know this thread is dead now, but What would be a good inner diameter and wall thickness for the lower arms? I found some material for the uppers at my welding class. it's 1"ID X 3/16wall and I believe it's DOM. there is about 3 feet of this, so that'll work for the uppers. I couldn't find anything for the lowers though. so it looks like I'll have to buy some.

Also, is there an optimal length for the arms to be? both upper and lower?

One more question. I'm planning on using the 2.5in Johnny Joints at the frame, and stock bushings at the axle, but what about making the upper arms adjustable? What would e a decent economical joint? I AM on a budget, so keep that in mind.

thanks.

why would you NOT make them adjustable. your building suspension components for a lifted vehicle. dont you want to be able to dial-in/tune the suspension.
 
sorry, didn't state that clearly enough. that's what I'm planning on. I was asking what would be a decent, economical joint for the uppers.
 
tayman said:
sorry, didn't state that clearly enough. that's what I'm planning on. I was asking what would be a decent, economical joint for the uppers.
Stock rubber,you dont want a flex joint or any hard joint.
 
are you being serios or sarcastic? I wouldn't think that the upper arms on a radius setup needs to move much, but I do want adjustability...

if you're being serious, what do you think, use the JKS cradles and use a bolt for threads?

by the way, do the JKS cradles come with bushings or are those seperate?
 
i use 1.5" .25 wall tubing sleeved with 1.75" .120 wall, you can buy the weld in inserts that are threaded for heims or other ends like re joints, johnnie joints, boulder bushings etc.

here are a few setups i have done in the last 10 years or so.

http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii46/TWINSUMMITS/LONG%20ARM%20BUILDS/?albumview=slideshow

personally i like the last setup i did on my current 98, leaf spring conversion

adjustability is key, bushings ride nicer, the three link on the cj8 was awesome, would flex out of the rig if i wanted it to, the leaves are way more stable on mountain curves at 60
 
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tayman said:
are you being serios or sarcastic? I wouldn't think that the upper arms on a radius setup needs to move much, but I do want adjustability...

if you're being serious, what do you think, use the JKS cradles and use a bolt for threads?

by the way, do the JKS cradles come with bushings or are those seperate?
I wasn't saying stock arms,just the OEM bushings!The sleeves(cradles don't come with bushings.Yes,you need a way to adjust pinion/castor!
 
I know you weren't suggesting stock arms... but apparently you are suggesting stock bushings on both ends of the upper arms? if this is true then my list would consist of:

4 OEM bushing cradles, and 2 Johnny Joints. (2 bushings and 2 JJ's for the lowers, and 2 bushings {made adjustable} for the uppers.)

Does that sound reasonable?
 
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