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FFDynamics shroud kit for triple threat fans

are they all wired though a single relay? no wonder it burned up :doh:

alex22 that is exactly what I would do, 3 30 amp relays triggered by one lead from the fan controller. and I would use 30 amp fuses, I would be very surprised if the fans pulled less than 20-25 amps when starting up.
 
This is one more testimony that the mechanical fan and stock aux work better (pull more CFM) than any electric setup. Electric fans are not a solution to overheating issues. There aren't a combination of electric fans that will fit our radiators that will pull enough CFM.

BTW, we had an XJ in the shop to install a 4.9 stroker and it had the WilsonFab 3 fan setup. We put an amp gauge on a fan and it pulled 13 amps, and that's just sitting there without the motor even running so no heat. It started pulling 8 amps and then gradually rose to 13 amps as the fan ran, but no heat from the engine. I'd assume it would pull 15 amps per fan with the heat from the engine.

I was really checking this 3 fan setup out, since I need a new aux fan and shroud on mine, but I decided to stick with the factory stuff.
 
This is one more testimony that the mechanical fan and stock aux work better (pull more CFM) than any electric setup. Electric fans are not a solution to overheating issues. There aren't a combination of electric fans that will fit our radiators that will pull enough CFM.

It's hard to beat a fan powered by a 4.0 engine. I love the control that an electric fan can give you but, for outright cooling the mechanical fan is where it's at.
 
This is one more testimony that the mechanical fan and stock aux work better (pull more CFM) than any electric setup. Electric fans are not a solution to overheating issues. There aren't a combination of electric fans that will fit our radiators that will pull enough CFM.

BTW, we had an XJ in the shop to install a 4.9 stroker and it had the WilsonFab 3 fan setup. We put an amp gauge on a fan and it pulled 13 amps, and that's just sitting there without the motor even running so no heat. It started pulling 8 amps and then gradually rose to 13 amps as the fan ran, but no heat from the engine. I'd assume it would pull 15 amps per fan with the heat from the engine.

I was really checking this 3 fan setup out, since I need a new aux fan and shroud on mine, but I decided to stick with the factory stuff.
This is true, the stock engine driven fan setup, when all components are functioning properly, is the best setup you can have. The FFD radiator will cool better and faster than the stock radiator. The reasons people move to electric fans are mainly; to get a bit more power by reducing parasitic loss from the crankshaft, to reduce the noise produced by the radiator fan/s, the ability to turn the fan/s on and off at will, and sometimes because people are concerned about catastrophic fan failure when doing water crossings. For me, getting rid of the fan noise was worth the reduction in cooling because the system as I have it configured now comes fairly close to cooling as well as a good stock system. I have to add that as aluminum radiators and electrical fan setups go, you can't find a better value than the FFd setup. The guys at FFD are on a mission to produce the best parts they can and have spent alot of time communicating with me in an attempt to improve their product with feedback from real users.
 
Thanks for the input. Are you saying that the stock radiator & fan setup works better than the FFDynamics setup? Just want to make sure I don't spend extra money to get a less efficient system.

The FFD website doesn't show how the controller works, but do you think that 3 relays wired directly to the battery, each with their own fuse (10A?) wired to the control module would give the fans all the power they want?

I will have to put a call into FFDynamics tomorrow and see what they have to say about the relay situation.

Dave, how long did it take to heat soak the radiator and what were you doing?

~Alex

To answer this and echo some of what Goatman and Jeeper John already said:

I think the FF Dynamics is a better radiator than the stock unit by far. I like the quality, and the support I received from their folks. The fans look to be robust, and the thinnest of any I've researched, and the shrouds are nicely made. The one weak link was the fan controller. I wasn't crazy about the "jam in the fins" temp probe, though I had no issues with it rattling out.

A lot of things conspired against me. Heavy vehicle, small amount of combustion gases (though overheating persisted after head work), originally bad alternator, Death Valley in the summer (not only temp, but low humidity reduces air's cooling capability).

Changing out the fans to the stock '97+ fan, factory shroud, ZJ fan clutch and factory electric aux fan made the Heep drivable in the summer. It still didn't run as cool as I'd like under load. It would get to 240 under load, whereas before we crack 260. However, I now get mistaken for a 767 on takeoff. Since this isn't a daily driver, it's not a big deal, but I do miss the extreme quietness of the FF Dynamics fans.

As far as heat soaking, in the summer, at idle, I could idle for hours and never go past 200 degrees. But, a 5 mile run from 2000 foot elevation to 4000 foot, 25 mph, twisty paved road (PSR to Father Crowley) would take it to 250 degrees. So, the heat soaking didn't take long.

At the risk of boring you, here were some measurements I took with the fans and radiator:

State of Vehicle / Action Taken IR Temp @ Therm IR Temp @ Rad inlet IR Temp @ Rad Outlet IR Temp betw pass & center fan IR Temp betw center & drvr fan Indicated Water Temp Ambient air temp inside Jeep
Baseline warmed up - at rest - no changes 192 186 142 180 170 195 105







Add shrouds, replace alternator - warmed up - at rest 190 180 123 can't reach any more can't reach any more 195 107







Add shrouds, replace alternator - mid way up Pleasant Canyon 238 230 198 can't reach any more can't reach any more 240 110







Flush system, straight water - warmed up - at rest 194 182 135 can't reach any more can't reach any more 195 105 Got up to 230 from Panamint Rd. to PSR








Sorry for the formatting, but the point to see, and reinforce Jeeper John's observation, is that the radiator was dropping the temperatures significantly more when the fan shrouds were installed. Also notice that once I exceeded the temp of the thermostat (195), the temp difference across the radiator was reduced.

Goatman is right - there really is no aftermarket fan setup that will cool better than the factory. Like I mentioned, I think the FF Dynamics radiator itself is better than stock, and if they had a 2000 CFM each fan instead of 1100 CFM, I'd probably still have them in the Jeep. And their prices are very competitive with some of the other options out there.
In summary, I believe that for my application, in my environment, with my rig, the FF Dynamics fans simply didn't pull enough CFM to cool the engine. You simply can't replace a 5200 CFM combo (factory mechanical plus electric) fan with 3300 CFM in the harsh conditions of the desert and expect it to cool the same.

However, I see you live in CT. When I had the Heep in upstate NY, albeit in April, the radiator was so efficient, the fans never came on, not even if idling for an hour, and not under any condition running down the road. So, it is quite likely, given the extra humidity in the summer in CT, that you would have no problem with the setup.

Hope this helps some.

David Bricker / SYR
 
Thanks for all of the input guys...maybe SoCal isn't so bad afterall...

The email I received from FFDynamics said that the triple threat radiator was on back order for the next 4 to 6 weeks and I need to go on a 200 mile trip this weekend. I picked up a single core CSF from a local shop and its already in the jeep. If FFDynamics had one on the shelf ready to ship I would have bought it since Jersey is only 2 days UPS from CT.

When I install the stroker I will buy a good all aluminum radiator, either the FFDynamics, BeCool or a Griffin.
 
I bought the FFD kit and will be installing it soon. I'll post up results once it's installed!
 
Any further experiences/input on the FFD radiator, itself?
Generally speaking the radiator is very well made. I did, however, have a pin hole in the first one I got from a welding error. They quickly replaced the unit on their dime. I find this radiator removes more heat faster than any radiator I have tried yet. I have had 4 different radiators in my jeep before this one. Also, the fittings they included for the tranny cooler lines had nuts that were too short, they only had about 6 threads engaged when fully installed. This is not a good scenario for an aluminum fitting.
 
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Jeeperjohn, do I still need a 60 amp relay? If so, where can I buy one?
 
We got the radiator installed and now we are working on the wiring. The guy who is helping me (who knows a lot more than I do) was thinking that we should put a fuse on each fan for additional protection. He claims that the main fuse that comes with the kit provides some protection, but if it fails, then all the fans fail. With individual fuses for each fan, you would have more protection. What are your thoughts?
 
Extra insurance is always good. I would run a 25-30A fuse on each fan circuit. I recently got a great deal on a used DBO fan setup, I just need to pick up some extra wiring and relays and such.
 
We got the radiator installed and now we are working on the wiring. The guy who is helping me (who knows a lot more than I do) was thinking that we should put a fuse on each fan for additional protection. He claims that the main fuse that comes with the kit provides some protection, but if it fails, then all the fans fail. With individual fuses for each fan, you would have more protection. What are your thoughts?

if you're going that far, use 3 fuses and 3 relays.
 
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