• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Durango steering box install (56k beware)

I've seen some other threads that state it must have the 5.9 motor in the Durango, but that doesn't sound right to me. From what is in this thread, as long as the V8 was in it it should be good to go? Any other ways to identify whether it's the appropriate box without seeing it? I'm asking cause I'm considering getting one off car-part.com and rebuilding it/tapping it. And what year range in the Durango's? Just anything '99 or newer, or did they change the box again in later years?
 
I read through, but might have missed this. Does any one know if the original write up will work the same on my 88 Pioneer? I really need to get a steering box in. My current one is getting worse by the day.
 
100_1619.jpg

Side note question- are those tow hook brackets with the outside C-ROK steering box reinforcement plate? im just wondering if they work together.....
 
krawler said:
I am going to swap one in in a couple of days. Anyone know if you can still use a M.O.R.E. on any other steering box brace? TIA Jason

For feature ref. the brace will still work. I thought it wouldn't because of the extra spacing from the frame.
 
Uhh ......99 and "up" most certainly are not all the same ...... my 2k durango has rack and pinion steering anybody wanna use that on a jeep?
 
So I have mine in, and I used the Iron Scorpion steering box brace with the inner plate as well. I am so happy with the upgrade. It steers better and is very responsive now...not quite like a sports car but better than before!!! definitely a good upgrade!!!
 
A couple of data points. (96XJ 2"lift)

. I had no issues removing my pitman arm. I gave it a couple shots of PB blaster, went to the parts store, returned, and went to work. 33mm socket for my pitman arm nut. I started by tightening the nut as far as my impact wrench would take it. According to another thread, this technique sometimes helps break loose frozen PA's. I used this puller: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WMR2/W142.oap?keyword=pitman+arm+puller&pt=N0724&ppt=C0374

. I had to add 17 and 18mm wrenches to my "collection." As mentioned above, stubbies would be very helpful in removing/attaching the fluid lines from/to the gear box.

. I went with the XJ box (A1 Cardone). I have to play with it more, but it feels like I'm getting an additional 1/4 turn or so out of the steering wheel.
 
And a question.

I've replaced the PS pump, gear box and hoses. Fluid level is good and there is no sign of bubbles in the reservoir. Why am I still getting some moaning while moving the steering wheel?
 
And a question.

I've replaced the PS pump, gear box and hoses. Fluid level is good and there is no sign of bubbles in the reservoir. Why am I still getting some moaning while moving the steering wheel?
You need to jack up the front and cycle the steering wheel back and forth about 20 times with the engine off to remove all air.
 
Is there anyway to get the OP back with the photos. I am guessing not, but I am a visual kind of guy.

These instructions would go A LOT further for me with photos to compliment the instructions...
 
Is there anyway to get the OP back with the photos. I am guessing not, but I am a visual kind of guy.

These instructions would go A LOT further for me with photos to compliment the instructions...

The pics are available through the link at the bottom of the second or third post.
 
Back
Top