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Custom Width HP44 Build and Tech

Capt. Nemo said:
What will be off .66" to the driver's side?
Click to expand...

The TNT Conversion kit is design so that you really don't have to take any measurements. With that said the upper and lower control arm attach points will be off along, with the coil buckets if you shorten the axle to a waggy width using waggy axle lengths. The pinion I don't think really matters being off .66" The kit was originally designed to put full width HP44 in XJ's, ZJ,s and TJ's. Along with YJ's if you run their coil conversion kit. I spoke with Matt at TNT about making a truss that moves everything .66" over for the guys that want to shorten their axle to a standard waggy width, but then you start running into problems of the driver side coil bucket getting into the casting of the center section. So all I am saying is if you would like to run a true Waggy width so you can run stock waggy axle shafts your front axle will track .66" off to the drivers side.
 
Cruzin Illusion said:
So all I am saying is if you would like to run a true Waggy width so you can run stock waggy axle shafts your front axle will track .66" off to the drivers side.
Click to expand...

If a person is going to use TnT Customs HP44 truss system. Got it.
 
Can't you just cut the mounts off and move them over a bit? Or is it just not that simple?
 
Cruzin Illusion said:
The TNT Conversion kit is design so that you really don't have to take any measurements. With that said the upper and lower control arm attach points will be off along, with the coil buckets if you shorten the axle to a waggy width using waggy axle lengths. The pinion I don't think really matters being off .66" The kit was originally designed to put full width HP44 in XJ's, ZJ,s and TJ's. Along with YJ's if you run their coil conversion kit. I spoke with Matt at TNT about making a truss that moves everything .66" over for the guys that want to shorten their axle to a standard waggy width, but then you start running into problems of the driver side coil bucket getting into the casting of the center section. So all I am saying is if you would like to run a true Waggy width so you can run stock waggy axle shafts your front axle will track .66" off to the drivers side.
Click to expand...


If the axle is off by .66" the the drivers side why couldn't you use your track bar to correct this and push it back .66" The idea of the track bar was to keep the axle centered anyways ?

I'm about to start my Dana 44 conversion and just want to know exactly what route I'm taking.
 
92SportXJ said:
If the axle is off by .66" the the drivers side why couldn't you use your track bar to correct this and push it back .66" The idea of the track bar was to keep the axle centered anyways ?
Click to expand...

Although the axle would be off center, the springs and suspension links would be centered and straight with the Jeep. Using the trackbar to correct for this would just throw off the springs/links by the same amount.
 
The D44 I'm using for my XJ is from a 79 Ford f-150. Instead of changing over to Chevy flat tops I'm using a Reid Racing knuckle so that I can keep all the Ford stuff that I already have.



Just an fyi for anyone looking into this swap.

I'll have more info in a few days when it shows up at my door.

DAryl
 
desracing said:
Are you still able to use 15" wheels with that knuckle? I assume you are using the ford f150 5on5.5 hubs/rotors?
Click to expand...
I'm a little worried about that, I was told that I could, If not I'll have some rims and tires for sale. Yea, I'm keeping the 5 on 5½.

Brown says the knuckles will be here tomorrow (3-8-07)

Since the arms I have, have key ways cut into them. Friday I'll be dropping them off to the machine shop to get the knuckles milled to fit into the arms key way. I doubt that the turn around time will be fast enough to start fitting crap together this weekend.

So I'll be pulling, drilling and tapping the power steering for hydro assist.
 
When you talk about taking the measurement from the outboard side of the inner "C" would that be "A" in the picture.

100_2432.jpg


And did you take you 2.58" like this?

100_2304.jpg


I have a 1974 Ford F150 HP Dana 44 that took a bit to find, so I don't want to screw this up when cutting.
Also what lenght inner axles did you finally get, I figured out they should be 16.46" and 31.46" is this what you came up with.
 
92SportXJ said:
When you talk about taking the measurement from the outboard side of the inner "C" would that be "A" in the picture.

100_2432.jpg


And did you take you 2.58" like this?

100_2304.jpg


I have a 1974 Ford F150 HP Dana 44 that took a bit to find, so I don't want to screw this up when cutting.
Also what lenght inner axles did you finally get, I figured out they should be 16.46" and 31.46" is this what you came up with.
Click to expand...

Yes I removed 2.58 inches from the outboard side (Representative A) of the inner C like you have it shown in the second picture.

The lengths that I order where the same as your figures:
16.46" from center of U-joint hole to the end of the axle shaft for the drivers side
31.46" from center of U-joint hole ot the end of the axle shaft for the passengers side.

Remember when reinstalling the inner C's to leave the outboard edge of the inner C stick out from the axle tube 0.130" if not your axle shaft will be to long.
 
desracing said:
hey cruzin illusion, are you still able to run the 15" wheels? if so what is your back spacing?
Click to expand...


I am running 15x8 black rock crawler wheels with 3.75" back spacing. There is plenty of room. It was much tighter with my WJ brake conversion on my dana 30.
 
desracing said:
Are you still able to use 15" wheels with that knuckle? I assume you are using the ford f150 5on5.5 hubs/rotors?
Click to expand...

I am running Chevy Flat Top Knuckles, Chevy Small Bearing Spindles, Ford Hubs and Rotors 5x5.5, and Warn Premium Hubs. I am also running PMP Long Super High Steer Arms. You will need a high steer arm that comes out at least 7.25" from the center of balljoint to the center of the TRE mounting hole. PMP long high steer arms are perfect. You will also want to run a Waggy pitman arm because it is longer. This will give you back full throw in your steering, due to the longer high steer arms, and you will be able to turn stop to stop.
 
Cruzin Illusion said:
I am running Chevy Flat Top Knuckles, Chevy Small Bearing Spindles, Ford Hubs and Rotors 5x5.5, and Warn Premium Hubs. I am also running PMP Long Super High Steer Arms. You will need a high steer arm that comes out at least 7.25" from the center of balljoint to the center of the TRE mounting hole. PMP long high steer arms are perfect. You will also want to run a Waggy pitman arm because it is longer. This will give you back full throw in your steering, due to the longer high steer arms, and you will be able to turn stop to stop.
Click to expand...


What outer stub axle are you using with the small chevy spindle?
Will the 80-84 waggy stub axle work with the chevy spindle/ford hub combo?
 
desracing said:
What outer stub axle are you using with the small chevy spindle?
Will the 80-84 waggy stub axle work with the chevy spindle/ford hub combo?
Click to expand...

I am running chevy outer shafts. Yes the the outer waggy shafts will work. They are the same as the Chevys. Actually all the parts on the 80-84 Waggy axles are Chevy. The only difference is the inner axle shaft length. So you can run the backing plates and calipers also.
 
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