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Custom Width HP44 Build and Tech

Cruzin Illusion said:
That is what I ended up with. The one thing I think anyone should do narrrowing an axle or not is to get your caster set correctly. I can not believe how much better it drives down the road with the caster set at 5 degrees.

What do mean by setting it at 5 degrees? Im getting ready for a similar project and I want to make sure everythings b/c this is my DD.
 
MercenaryXJ said:
What do mean by setting it at 5 degrees? Im getting ready for a similar project and I want to make sure everythings b/c this is my DD.

When you shorten an axle you can set the caster wherever you want it by setting your knuckles at the right angle before welding them back on.

I'm just about finished with my build. Its a hp44 using the TnT truss. I left mine full width. I still took the time to cut the knuckles loose and turn them to get the caster right, it doesn't take too long to do and is well worth the effort spent.
 
5° sounds great.

Well did anyone mock up the proper pinion angle for your lift and t-case position or do you just set it at 13° and go for it? I want to go for around 8” of lift but things may change a little. I want to start working on my axle after reading all this, lol.
tipshades.gif


pics of my 44hp
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=909409
 
I set my pinion angle at 13 degrees, and my caster at 6.5 degrees (stock spec is 5-8). That gave me a little room to play with pinion angle later if needed, but the DS angles look perfect at 13 degrees on my 6" lift.
 
Cruzin Illusion said:
I am running Chevy Flat Top Knuckles, Chevy Small Bearing Spindles, Ford Hubs and Rotors 5x5.5, and Warn Premium Hubs. I am also running PMP Long Super High Steer Arms.

Are those spindles the six lug chevy ones, and do they work w/ ford 5 on 5.5 rotors and hubs?

Where can you get the pmp steer arms?

Thanks in advance
 
MercenaryXJ said:
Are those spindles the six lug chevy ones, and do they work w/ ford 5 on 5.5 rotors and hubs?

Where can you get the pmp steer arms?

Thanks in advance

They have to be the small bearing chevy spindles. Yes they have six lugs. Those will work with the Ford Hub and Rotor to give you a 5x5.5 bolt pattern.

You can get everything you need from www.partsmike.com

Here is the part number for the spindles: 706528X
spindles.jpg
 
Great tech. I have a housing I'm getting ready to narrow for a TJ, so this has been perfect. I'm still debating the waggy width versus centering like you've done.

One point causing me the delay is the fact that I will be moving soon, and will be unable to finish the build, or decide on the suspension. I will be adding 5.5 to 6 inches lift, so will set the pinion and caster accordingly.
 
TJMouse said:
Great tech. I have a housing I'm getting ready to narrow for a TJ, so this has been perfect. I'm still debating the waggy width versus centering like you've done.

One point causing me the delay is the fact that I will be moving soon, and will be unable to finish the build, or decide on the suspension. I will be adding 5.5 to 6 inches lift, so will set the pinion and caster accordingly.

i found a place online that will shorten your stock shafts and re-spline them for about 60 bucks. its way cheaper than alloy, and will still get you on the road.
http://moserengineering.com/Pages/Shop-Services/shopservices.html
 
Any issues with the pinion angle? It looks like it could possibly cause some interference between the pumpkin and the engine if the flex was just right.
 
Maybe an incredible stupid question (so forgive me if so haha), but is it possible to combine this type of axle with a WJ knuckle/brake setup?
 
No, the late model D30 & "TJ" D44 knuckles will not fit the early D44 "C's".
I have Chevy flat tops & PMP steering arms on my D44. I've found that with all that steering linkage, and track bar mounted up high, above the axle tube, potential for interference with the oil pan and damper are possible. I already dented one oil pan before adding more bump stops.
Of course, I have a SBC, and not the stock 4L. But my crank center line is the same as my old 4.0, so I'm not sure the V8 adds to the problem. Just beware, if you're going high steer. I had no problem with my old D30 vs the Chevy oil pan.
 
Okay thanks!

Reason for asking, because earlier I planned to do the WJ knuckle setup on my HP30 but as time goes by I'm leaning more and more to a HP44 swap. Just because I've got all the stuff here for the WJ mod I thought I'd ask if this is possible.

Hm then I've got to make somebody else happy with that stuff and start a search for some Chevy ft's. ;)
 
iMav said:
Okay thanks!

Reason for asking, because earlier I planned to do the WJ knuckle setup on my HP30 but as time goes by I'm leaning more and more to a HP44 swap. Just because I've got all the stuff here for the WJ mod I thought I'd ask if this is possible.

Hm then I've got to make somebody else happy with that stuff and start a search for some Chevy ft's. ;)

Now I'm only guessing at this, but the only way to use the WJ stuff would be to some how fit the inner c's from a 30 onto the tubes of the 44 then you'd have an HP34?

There are Fords to watch out for that have Flat top knuckles. Rummer has it that there was a super crew camper built as a F-150 that had flat tops on both sides. Most Fords flat tops are from F-250's.
 
I am not sold on the dana 30 knuckle swap. It sound like all you have is a HP Rubicon 44. You still have the weak 27 spline outers and the unit bearings. I had the WJ brakes on my Dana 30 and now run the Chevy brakes on my HP44 and it stops just as well as the WJ brakes did on my 30.
 
Frank Z said:
BTW, any problems with your shock mounts?

I think Frank is asking on my behalf, because I am working on my third driver's side mount using the "bolt welded to coil perch" method...
 
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